360 Intake leaks nightmare

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Old 03-15-2016, 09:25 PM
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360 Intake leaks nightmare

I did a valve job three weeks ago to my 360 SB but since then I've been trying to install the intake manifold without success.

I changed intake gaskets 5 times due to coolant/water leak to oil pan and behind engine, the leak is fixed but today when engine started I noticed I have a HUGE vacuum leak in some place, the car will only try to idle while fully choked and I think the leak is in the intake but is from inside engine because I can hear a whistle which increases when I remove the valve covers.

I think my unique option is to change again the intake gaskets but I want to take all posible cares this time to succeed and drive my car again. I'm not from USA so I can't buy fel-pro or Mr Gasket kits, I was thinking about use a double intake gasket but I'm not sure if that is safe.

I already used carb cleaner all around the intake to try to find the leak withous success
Old 03-16-2016, 01:27 AM
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The heads were resurfaced YOU need to have the intake side of the head surfaced
OR have the intake manifold surfaced to make it fit It is something like .007 for every .010 removed from the head
Old 03-16-2016, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by TVLynn
The heads were resurfaced YOU need to have the intake side of the head surfaced
OR have the intake manifold surfaced to make it fit It is something like .007 for every .010 removed from the head
I'm not convinced that could be the problem, I've never resurfaced Heads or even milled them.

I remember that with the factory 2bbl intake the bolt holes align perfectly and with the new aluminum intake I have to constantly adjust the instake to align bolt holes. That's why I suspect i have to use double or triple gasket to raise a little the intake and get the bolt holes aligned without problems
Old 03-16-2016, 10:54 AM
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The fit/clearance on the front and rear gasket rails will give you an obvious view of where you stand as to what you need to do. If the front and rear rail gasket do not crush at least by half, you need to get the previously mentioned machine work done to make it right.
Old 03-17-2016, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by josehf34
I remember that with the factory 2bbl intake the bolt holes align perfectly and with the new aluminum intake I have to constantly adjust the instake to align bolt holes.
WHAT IS this intake?

Brand, model?

It is NEW "new?" That is actually new, and not bought "out of the box?"

THE PROBLEM is one of three things. Either the heads have been milled, or the intake was milled, or the intake is improperly manufactured, IE defective.
Old 03-24-2016, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Drag Pak
The fit/clearance on the front and rear gasket rails will give you an obvious view of where you stand as to what you need to do. If the front and rear rail gasket do not crush at least by half, you need to get the previously mentioned machine work done to make it right.
Originally Posted by DDodger
WHAT IS this intake?

Brand, model?

It is NEW "new?" That is actually new, and not bought "out of the box?"

THE PROBLEM is one of three things. Either the heads have been milled, or the intake was milled, or the intake is improperly manufactured, IE defective.


I think the problem was the guide for the front and rear intake gaskets, the original 2 BBL intake had them but the new intake not, so I drilled them and the intake fit right without gaskets, then I installed gaskets and haven't had more problems with coolant or vacuum leaks
Old 03-24-2016, 07:01 PM
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Sorry double post
Old 03-24-2016, 07:09 PM
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Sounds to me like the carb is to small... Just my 2 cents
Old 03-24-2016, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RacerHog
Sounds to me like the carb is to small... Just my 2 cents

Racer please continue the carb problem discussion in this thread: https://moparforums.com/forums/f81/c...problem-19284/

I accidentaly posted the problem in the wrong thread

But I don't think the carb is too small, the original carb was a Holley 2245 500 CFM and If I'm right this carb is 625 CFM
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