1968GTX

I just took my valley pan off, and noticed that the cam shaft is rusted, pitted, and even has flatts on it in spots. Should I replace it with the same or should I upgrade it? And which brand should i use?

moe7404

if you do a new cam. be sure it use zinc in the oil. check out zddplus.com i have used it for 5 years.

TVLynn

What does the nose of the cam look like? Do you want stock or performance cam... IF you really want to up grade get a roller cam and some 1.6 roller rockers

1968GTX

That is what I was thinking about doing. Can you suggest a brand, I was thinking stock lift to not performance.

Mr.4spd

I've had good luck with Comp Cams. Whichever brand you choose, I recommend calling them and telling them what you're up to and let them choose a cam for you, I know this requires turning in your 'Man Card' for a while, but you'll be glad you did. This pretty much guarantees the perfect cam for your combo.

1968GTX

Can anyone tell me what cam came stock in my 1968 GTX, so I can get an idea on where to start looking?

pro-tech

WHAT engine? I would use Mopar performance and go with a mild street cam/trailer towing cam..I think that how they list it...I have had the best luck staying with the factory stuff they know best what runs good...Just saying and Im not knocking any other cam manafacturers..The purple camshafts run and perform great...Bill

pro-tech

What is the nose of a cam?????

RacerHog

Lunati or Hughes

Great cam, Great power!!!!

1968GTX

440

demetri

If this engine is original, it is the HP version. The cam of this engine was 268 total intake, 284 exhaust, .450 intake lift, .475 exhaust. You can go bigger, if willing to lose some low end torque, and given that this is not a heavy car (by Chrysler standards), you can certainly do so. You can look at my thread "440 build for Imperial" or something like that, where I discuss my cam option with .477" intake lift (cannot recall exhaust). Modern cams are a bit less conservative, in terms of having a bit more lift for a given duration. Modern oils allow that. In my case, I have a very heavy car w/ high gearing, and I cannot afford loosing too much low end torque. But I am willing to lose some, so that I can have good high speed performance. You can go a step or two beyond what I selected, but I would not go too far if I were you, as you may lose too much low torque, with little benefit (too much cam may require other mods to really give you benefits).

Mr.4spd

I dropped a Purple Shaft .484 into a stock (stock besides headers and an aluminum intake)440 4 speed 4000# car and ran it on the street with no problems. That same setup ran 12.60 @108 at the track.

Skwerly

It’d be pretty neat to step up to something in the 256 range (like comp cams XE line). Great idle, great mpg, and a wonderful gain in torque down low where these mopars like to shine.

Coronet 500

With stock exhaust manifolds something like this would be real good.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=706&sb=2

TVLynn

I would go with the 284 cam 470 lift with 1.6 rockers. stock GTX cam is not a grocery getter it is a performance cam. sugested 256 Sounds like a down grade from stock

TVLynn

Nose ??? I always thought it was the part of the cam that was in contact with the lifter at max lift

1968GTX

So that would be the smaller radius on the cam shaft right?

RacerHog

Nose is the high side of the cam lobe....
Heel is the low flat part of the cam lobe area....

pro-tech

Well there you have it the official word from my buddy Bob Hogan...No relation to Hogans Heros..See still learning after all these years...I have never heard that term before...It must be a west coast thing..(Like the west coast girls are hip I really dig those styles they wear.)Now they pierce everything and distroy there bodies with grommets..Lol...Bill

RacerHog

.....Old Rod & Custom Magazine use to use that terminology... LOL

But Bill you might be rite..... It's a Racing / Hot Rodders slang term...



Sorry for the highjack 1968GTX.... Now back to the topic !!

RacerHog

I'm Guessing there has been nothing done to the motor?
Just a stock bottom end and heads?
Are you going to upgrade the rockers or are you looking at just wanting to stay with a hyd. cam replacement?

This would be a great replacement... I think you might look at it....

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2334&gid=362

One of the jobs I did has this cam and the guy loves it.... Drive the crap out of it.... Weekend cruiser with good low end power and good vacuum for his power brakes.

NOTE: This is for the 3 bolt cam sprocket !!!

1968GTX

I am going to try and pull the heads and the rest of the cam out this weekend provided I can get the garage warmed up enough to work out there. Supposed to be only 10 deg. On Saturday. Thank you all for the help, you all are a great bunch of help.

1968GTX

Is it possible to work on that cam shaft replacement while the engine is still in the car, or do i need to pull it out?

TVLynn

Just the radiator & distributor of course !!

1968GTX

Am I going to have to replace the cam bearings too, or should I tear it apart and wait and see, and if so can I achieve this with engine in car?

RacerHog

I think at this point, you should consider a freshen up of the engine.. Why take a change on the rest of it.

1968GTX

Well I got the cam shaft out this weekend, I was hoping for some numbers to be on it so I could cross reference it with An after market one. No such luck, the only numbers on it are forging number, no part numbers. I am going to post some pictures of it this week.

1968GTX

I got some pics posted of my cam shaft.

1968GTX

Is there a formula to checking to see what camshaft i have?

Coronet 500

http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Cams/CamSpecTerms.aspx