sysheler

now i know its not anything but carb problem going too lean.
i got it working good when i put back the original floats but after a few weeks working good it started to smoke black pretty much so i thought the orginal floats could be bad and sink, so i put new ones and same adjustments with the first ones.
and now the problem is back and i dont know whats causing it to go lean after the choke closes :\ can the primary well seals cause this if not put in right?
I wouldnt want to open that carb again until i know what should i do, cause it very annoying after like 6 times.
Or could it be just the basic adjustments? ive tried adjusting metering rods and idle mixtures, riching metering rods eliminates the backfire, but it still wont drive good until pressing lot of gas.

Accelerator pump works good, checked that it squirts nice and i can feel it when pressing the gas as it starts going fast when accel pump squirts but after that it just starts to slow down.

RacerHog

Black Smoke..... Is the choke stuck closed?
Also look down the throat of the carb when running and see id you see fuel dripping?
What carb are we talking here... I guessing it's a 2 barrel Carter?

sysheler

Sorry for my bad english, i meant that when the car ran good it was putting black smoke and it was fixed by putting new floats, but now it goes too lean when warmed up.
Those new floats are adjusted same as the old ones, so i dont think theyre the problem for lean mix, what else could cause it go lean after warmup?
Its 4bbl Carter Thermoquad

RacerHog

Open the Idle air fuel mixture screws up 3 turns... See if the helps?

What number is on the Q.T. ????

sysheler

Didnt help.
if you mean the code in the carb its 9078s

TVLynn

12 at idle and 14 at 2K something is wrong with your distributor

RacerHog

Thats a good universal T.Q. Carb....
I would say open the Idle air mixing screws up about 4 turns from all the way closed. That should richen it up enough to not go so lean after getting warmed up....

RacerHog

Yep....

sysheler

Could it be the wrong vacuum source for the dist , its not getting the vacuum from carb but from manifold.
Or is the vacuum source so important?
The car had run good one time after rebuild for couple months :S

RacerHog

Wrong Vacuum source......
You should be getting it from the base of the carb up front....


Should hook to the one on the left....

sysheler

it doesnt have the vacuum source for the dist in the carb

RacerHog

Dose it look like this one? If so we might be on to something....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-77-440-...0e5c6c&vxp=mtr

sysheler

Yeah thats the one

RacerHog

Ok..Carl... I think it's coming clear....
Dude... I should have called you....lol Sorry...
That is a lean Burn carb!!!! They suck!!!
But..... Here is what we can try....
(I'll have to go out to the shop and look to see if i have how the Dist. Vacuum advance is hooked up for these... I'll try to do that today, and get back to Y'all)

Unhook the Dist. Advance for now..... Set the timing to like 12*BTDC / 750RPM

The Vacuum source that was for the Dist. Hookup.... Hook it to the little nipple on the from of the carb, up on the top right "as your looking At the carb from the front of the car"

That is an Enrichment Circuit for those carbs... I think that will help with the popping your getting !!!!

Note: I'm not sure we can do anything with the Dist. Vac. Advance... I think when I look at the book...It's going to tell me that the Dist. Vacuum advance is controlled by the Lean Burn Control along with all the other switching B.S.....

????

sysheler

yeah its lean burn carb, and lean burn system has broken so someone has changed the orginal dist to a vacuum version so no electrical BS in there.
and the enrichment thingy is already hooked and its working

RacerHog

ok....
So with the timing set @ 12* at Idle.....
The IE hood up to full vacuum now.....
The vacuum advance not hooked to anything.....

With with a timing light..... @ 2000 RPM... What dose the timing read?

RacerHog

Dont see away around it.......
Ether change the carb....
Or
Use a full mechanical Dist. with no vacuum....

bigblock

I saw a magazine article on how to add vac adv to the TQ many years ago. Looked easy,but I've never done it.

CMJ

check distributor cap my friend, make sure it's on tight. I had the same problem, changed everything, plugs wires fuel pump you name it. I decided to check the cap and it was a bit loose. Now everything is good and well. All smiles now.

sysheler

After driving it another year, i got a new carb.
I got a remanufactured Thermoquad from year 76, so no lean burn and it has the vacuum port and now car works great now.

One last question is that how do i adjust the Torqueflites throttle rod or whatever it is that changes the transmissions pressure? When i changed the carb i had to loosen up throttle cable a bit because it was too tight, but now the trans rod is too loose and it shifts way too early and slips when shiftin 2-3.

RacerHog

Good to see you back and all is alot better....
There was a couple different types of linkage used... With out a picture of what you have, it's kind of hard to say..... BUT

Most of the linkages ether have a screw type or a Bolted slider type. If you search around here on the site you will find some pictures you can use...

But bottom line you just need to lengthen the rod for the T.V. to where it just touches the throttle stud...

sysheler

Ok i figured it out, the hardest thing was to get under the car somehow and loosen up the bolt that holds up the adjusting thing. Now its just drive drive & more drive