1968newport

Hey everyone. I am baffled by what I should do to prevent driveline damage with my high torque c body. Do I go traction bars, or what? I do not want a raked look, and I am trying to keep it as low to the ground as possible. Two summers from now I pan on converting to air bags or hydraulics.

What is my best option?

1968newport

I need to ensure that I get good traction with a 10" wide tire.Thanks!

TVLynn

GET DOT drag radials not the street version.
air bags or hydraulics. just ruins the go fast part

Mr.4spd

I've had pretty good luck with repro HD leafs with Slide-a-link bars. No axle wrap at all and handles predictably, like it's easy to do controlled power slides and stuff. I do have to replace the springs every 5 or so years cause I keep bending one for some reason. 5 years with the beating I dish out is okay in my book though.

Mr.4spd

Nitto 555R tires are the best I've tried on the street. Second are BFGs. The rest are garbage on the street.

Archer

1968 -

Traction bars were designed to prevent wheel hop. However they do stiffen up the rear end. Probably the least expensive fix, but may or may not be adequate. Kinda depends on how much torque you're "torqing" about.

Also kinda implies your springs are to to the task as well.

They couldn't hurt and they look cool but may not be a real solution, when running sticky tires.

Archer

slade

are u worried about twist? a 10 inch tire aslong as its a good tire will help alot with traction. slide a link are the next best thing after a 4 link setup

TVLynn

Check Caltrax http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/catrbarsy1.htm
if you must have traction bars

slade

caltrax thats it i couldnt remember there name

inri

You should try the Mickey Thompson ET Streets! Best tire bar none for the street

I run 295/55/15 on my stroked 440. Sticks em good!

Mr.4spd

I've never tried those, honestly. Their catalog states that they're not recommended for stick shift cars. Something about the extra shock at launch or something. Sidebar, Hoosier drag radials do not hook at all on the street, and are terrifying in the rain.

moe7404

why didnt some one talk about stock chrysler O.E.M. superstock leaf springs. THE FASTEST stock cars used ONLY leaf springs.

Mr.4spd

I assumed it was a street car. The SS setup was never intended for that, and the adaptor hangers look freakin' scary if you ask me.

moe7404

the mopar stock springs WILL work on the street. you just have to understand what you are driving.

slade

caltrax are the best bang for the buck. although you can probably build your own for a fraction of the cost

1968newport

I want to prevent wheel hop and twist. I was going to go with the Mickey Thompson street radials, but not there yet. The car is an automatic. I'm going to check out the slide a links. I don't want to add to the height of the car which sits pretty low as is. I bought the car that way and not sure how the rear was lowered. I'm very uneducated about suspension systems. IMO trying to learn but there is so much out there and I can't seem to understand what is good for what.

Thanks everyone for these responses. It gets me going in the right direction...

pro-tech

All you need is a adjustable pinion snubber to keep the rear differential from twisting and wheel hop. Traction bars are not needed. And is alot cheaper than Caltrax set up...Bill

1968newport

Ok so I am shopping for a pinion snubber for now. I may look into the HD leafs as well, but I am afraid they will lift the rear of the vehicle some. Why are air bags not suited for high power? I am estimating a 650-700 foot pounds torque. Probably fry generous with those numbers. All depends how much tuning I do with the meth kit and the blower.
Thanks guys. This really helps me out a lot. I just don't want to wreck anything that will be expensive.