67 newport wiring help needed
03-11-2013, 05:05 PM
#1
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67 newport wiring help needed
just picked up a 67 4dr newport that the kids want to cruise in this summer and many more after that. but i've got a few electrical issues i'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction with. Currently has no tail lights, no brake lights, no dash lights, head light stay on high beam all the time. turn signals work fine front and back. keeps blowing the fuse for the tailights. there is some type of jumper under the dash and if i disconnect it the car won't even crank over. i personally hate wiring but i've got to keep the kids happy you know.
03-11-2013, 06:29 PM
#2
there is a switch on the floor for high low beams check the switch for operation it should click in and out without jaming or grinding. If it does replace. Check the wiring around there too for any damage.
In the trunk people like through on trailer harnesses for some reason. If there is breaks in the wire solder and heat shrink tubing these. Check tail lights and front turn signal lights for correct bulbs. The socket should have one or two prongs in it. Single prongs are 1156. Double prongs are 1157.
The jumper wire under the dash probably runs from the melted bulkhead to the ignition switch. Someone fried the harness at one point. Buy a manual.
If you were close to me in manitoba I would just get your address and go fix the harness for you as its easier.
If not be prepared to do two things. One is go to a salvage yard and find another 67 newport for a spare harness. If that is not possible but you can find a similar year car such as a belvidere or coronet 4 door minus everything but the wiring harness you can use that if the bulkhead connection (the most important part) is not melted or wrecked.
Some pictures of the wiring harness and the damage done will be needed for the next part.
In the trunk people like through on trailer harnesses for some reason. If there is breaks in the wire solder and heat shrink tubing these. Check tail lights and front turn signal lights for correct bulbs. The socket should have one or two prongs in it. Single prongs are 1156. Double prongs are 1157.
The jumper wire under the dash probably runs from the melted bulkhead to the ignition switch. Someone fried the harness at one point. Buy a manual.
If you were close to me in manitoba I would just get your address and go fix the harness for you as its easier.
If not be prepared to do two things. One is go to a salvage yard and find another 67 newport for a spare harness. If that is not possible but you can find a similar year car such as a belvidere or coronet 4 door minus everything but the wiring harness you can use that if the bulkhead connection (the most important part) is not melted or wrecked.
Some pictures of the wiring harness and the damage done will be needed for the next part.
03-11-2013, 07:08 PM
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i did check the high / low switch on the floor and it felt ok. What do you mean when you say the bulkhead? i did unplug the wiring harness in the trunk on the drivers side and it still blowing fuses. when i checked each side of the fuse to a ground using a multimeter i had contenuity on all six of the fuses threw ground, is that normal??
03-11-2013, 08:00 PM
#4
First no1 thing you need to do is buy a FACTORY shop manual. You can find both paper and 'on CD' reprints on the www. Now I do NOT mean one printed by Haynes, Chilton, or others. I mean a CHRYSLER factory manual
You can download "useable" wiring diagrams here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
If you disconnected the harness connector in the left kick panel on the way back to the trunk---and it still blows fuses, this is a bad sign.
The circuit path is fuse panel --- tail fuse--headlight switch--kick panel connector--harness to rear--tail lights/ parking lights
67 did not have the parking lights on the parking light circuit UNLESS someone has modified the wiring.
That is---the older cars have TWO separate switch contacts in the headlight switch for the tail and parking. Park lights only come on "in park" and go OUT in "head" So unless someone has changed the wiring, the park lights are on that separate switch contact
HOWEVER both park and tail are on the same fuse, so if there's a short up in the park light housings, or bad / wrong bulb, that could cause this. So the next step I'd try is to pull the park lamps apart, pull the bulbs, and pull the wires loose out of the sockets, clean them inspect them, etc. Also follow them up through the fenders, along the engine bay, and two the bulkhead connector. Might have a wire pinched somewhere, etc.
BRAKE LIGHTS. You said "all signals work?" If so, it's likely one of two things--either bad brakelight switch or bad turn signal switch.
The brakelight switch is "hot" all the time, so you should be able to crawl under there and find power on one side whether the key is on or off.
Mash the pedal and both sides should be hot.
IF so, you have bad column turn sig. switch.
Headlights. Headlight power goes from the headlight switch to the floor dimmer switch, which is a simple three terminal (properly called SPDT, or single pole double throw) What this means is that headlight power comes in to the dimmer and goes out on one of the other terminals to either high or low beams. When you mash the dimmer, this power should switch to the opposite terminal.
You have to realize just how old these girls ARE. Several problems have become apparent, which needs attention.
Such things as: just about any connector in the harnesses is suspect to corrosion, including and starting with the headlight lamp connectors, and the wiring "up front" which GROUNDS those connectors
The bulkhead/ firewall connector --that great big complicated connector--is suspect for a number of circuits, including the main alternator charge wire, the main battery feed wire, the ignition "run" buss, and the high/ low beams!!!!
Please read this excellent article from MAD which points out some of these problems. This article applies to most Mopars from the very early 60's into the mid 70's, and for pickups and vans, later than that
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
Consider upgrading the headlights with relays
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml
Post back to this thread and we can help guide you through some checks
You can download "useable" wiring diagrams here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
If you disconnected the harness connector in the left kick panel on the way back to the trunk---and it still blows fuses, this is a bad sign.
The circuit path is fuse panel --- tail fuse--headlight switch--kick panel connector--harness to rear--tail lights/ parking lights
67 did not have the parking lights on the parking light circuit UNLESS someone has modified the wiring.
That is---the older cars have TWO separate switch contacts in the headlight switch for the tail and parking. Park lights only come on "in park" and go OUT in "head" So unless someone has changed the wiring, the park lights are on that separate switch contact
HOWEVER both park and tail are on the same fuse, so if there's a short up in the park light housings, or bad / wrong bulb, that could cause this. So the next step I'd try is to pull the park lamps apart, pull the bulbs, and pull the wires loose out of the sockets, clean them inspect them, etc. Also follow them up through the fenders, along the engine bay, and two the bulkhead connector. Might have a wire pinched somewhere, etc.
BRAKE LIGHTS. You said "all signals work?" If so, it's likely one of two things--either bad brakelight switch or bad turn signal switch.
The brakelight switch is "hot" all the time, so you should be able to crawl under there and find power on one side whether the key is on or off.
Mash the pedal and both sides should be hot.
IF so, you have bad column turn sig. switch.
Headlights. Headlight power goes from the headlight switch to the floor dimmer switch, which is a simple three terminal (properly called SPDT, or single pole double throw) What this means is that headlight power comes in to the dimmer and goes out on one of the other terminals to either high or low beams. When you mash the dimmer, this power should switch to the opposite terminal.
You have to realize just how old these girls ARE. Several problems have become apparent, which needs attention.
Such things as: just about any connector in the harnesses is suspect to corrosion, including and starting with the headlight lamp connectors, and the wiring "up front" which GROUNDS those connectors
The bulkhead/ firewall connector --that great big complicated connector--is suspect for a number of circuits, including the main alternator charge wire, the main battery feed wire, the ignition "run" buss, and the high/ low beams!!!!
Please read this excellent article from MAD which points out some of these problems. This article applies to most Mopars from the very early 60's into the mid 70's, and for pickups and vans, later than that
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
Consider upgrading the headlights with relays
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml
Post back to this thread and we can help guide you through some checks
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 03-11-2013 at 08:09 PM.
03-12-2013, 12:34 AM
#5
Near the fender on the drivers side under the hood you will see a black box of sorts. There is 3 black connecters that run to it. One from the Wiper motor, one from the engine and one from the front of the car with the headlight wiring. The headlight harness and the engine harness are usually taped together at the bulkhead even though there is maybe one wire that runs from the engine connecter to the light harness and vice versa. To remove the plugs use a small flat screwdriver to GENTLY pull the sides out a touch and rock the connector back and forth side to side a bit at a time till it comes off.
The top one should be in good shape the middle will most likely be melted or have a wire sticking through it. The bottom should be in good shape.
With all three removed you will see that the bulkhead connecter has four arrow like clips holding it in. Depress these with a screwdriver and push into the car. The bulkhead will fall down past the brake pedal if you look at the back there will probably be a wire that burnt so badly that the insulation is missing.
The further you go into the harness you will probably find other wires melted and fused into the burnt wire causing all your problems.
Did four of these in the past 2 years. One had been to a 'professional electric shop' where they ran a new wire directly to ignition switch without bothering to to untape and notice that the ignition wire actually connects to a bulk connection into the harness. Guess what nothing worked but the car started!
Causes have been various. Aftermarket guages, radios, jammed windshield wipers, wrong alternator, hammered voltage regulator, etc etc. Once I find and repair the problem I go looking for the cause.
I should warn you that sometimes guages in the dash get messed up badly because of people improperly fixing wiring with things such as crimp on connectors or putting in relays and other junk that are not needed.
Have fun.
The top one should be in good shape the middle will most likely be melted or have a wire sticking through it. The bottom should be in good shape.
With all three removed you will see that the bulkhead connecter has four arrow like clips holding it in. Depress these with a screwdriver and push into the car. The bulkhead will fall down past the brake pedal if you look at the back there will probably be a wire that burnt so badly that the insulation is missing.
The further you go into the harness you will probably find other wires melted and fused into the burnt wire causing all your problems.
Did four of these in the past 2 years. One had been to a 'professional electric shop' where they ran a new wire directly to ignition switch without bothering to to untape and notice that the ignition wire actually connects to a bulk connection into the harness. Guess what nothing worked but the car started!
Causes have been various. Aftermarket guages, radios, jammed windshield wipers, wrong alternator, hammered voltage regulator, etc etc. Once I find and repair the problem I go looking for the cause.
I should warn you that sometimes guages in the dash get messed up badly because of people improperly fixing wiring with things such as crimp on connectors or putting in relays and other junk that are not needed.
Have fun.
03-28-2013, 06:31 PM
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ok i've made some great progress. head lights staying on high beam, traced that to a passenger side bad low beam light. Taillights / brake light / dash lights not working and the fuse blowing...traced that to the wrong bulb being installed in the dome light. found that after i torn the whole dash apart. the jumper wire under the hood... traced it to a bad connection on back of instument cluster. now i'm onto getting the horn to work like factory. currently does nothing.
03-28-2013, 07:32 PM
#7
horn is usually one of two things.
Bad horn relay under the hood by the horns OR someone messed with the steering column. remove the steering wheel. Remove the turn signal assembly check it but if it is fine do not remove from car. under the turn signal assembly is a rubber mounted bearing there should be contact between the bearing and the rest of the steering column check with ohmeter. If good reassemble steering wheel and look for bad wiring elsewhere. If no connection it means someone removed the staple from the rubber and there is no ground.
Bad horn relay under the hood by the horns OR someone messed with the steering column. remove the steering wheel. Remove the turn signal assembly check it but if it is fine do not remove from car. under the turn signal assembly is a rubber mounted bearing there should be contact between the bearing and the rest of the steering column check with ohmeter. If good reassemble steering wheel and look for bad wiring elsewhere. If no connection it means someone removed the staple from the rubber and there is no ground.
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