1968 Charger Quesitons!

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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 02:41 PM
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Tom T2's Avatar
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1968 Charger Quesitons!

Greetings, it’s been awhile since I posted and it’s been too long since I worked on my car.... Anyways, I have a few questions about my car. Can anyone provide a picture of where the trunk floor meets the rear valence? I need it for reference since my old trunk floor and valence were both non existent. Another question is, should I weld up all the seams on the floor and the frame rail to the floor as well for more structural support and make it stronger than as it came factory? Any downsides to this? Another thing is, when I replace panels that have factory seam sealer between the two, how should I do this? Apply the seam sealer, clamp the panels in place, let it cure, and remove the sealer from the pre drilled spot welds and weld it together? I’m worried about water getting into the panel infront of the windshield (old one is off and new one is ready to be welded on). Also, factory seam sealer was between the tail panel and where it’s welded to. Also, I replaced the upper rear deck filler without thinking water will creep in so it’s already welded in place? I seen people just weld the seam shut, should I do this? Thank you all who responds!!
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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 08:55 PM
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First I'm not understanding the first part of your question, do you not have the rear body panel? You should have all the panals to fit at one time then take back apart and weld. The panels should not have seamsealer applied before welding that should happen afterwards. A good two part seam sealer is the best. Make sure all the parts are a tight fit and in the exact location before drilling for spotwelds. I drill through the first panel and clean the second with a die grinder. With 023 wire you can get an almost flush weld.
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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 09:06 PM
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I read your post again and it looks like you have a two peice floor, if that's the case the seam between the two is normally welded and finished. The spotwelds if done correctly are stronger than factory spotwelds, I have on several occasions had to replace panels that were replaced once already and removing a spotweld from a wire feed is a pain in the *** compared to the factory spotwelds.
good luck🙂
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 11:04 AM
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This might give you an idea....

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...A3C4&FORM=VIRE
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 02:26 PM
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I wanted to see a picture because there’s a small gap between the trunk floor and the rear valence panel, so I was curious to what is looks like factory. Thank you for responding
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 06:17 PM
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RacerHog's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Tom T2
I wanted to see a picture because there’s a small gap between the trunk floor and the rear valence panel, so I was curious to what is looks like factory. Thank you for responding
Stay tuned. Someone might just jump in here with your answer... In the mean time... Have you check over on "For B Body's only" ??? Mite be some photos over at that site?
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