Is there supposed to be a "GTX" emblem on the bottom right of the trunk lid on a 67 GTX?

 

not sure if you can see this, its on the TOP right of the back facing part of the lid...

 

cant really see in that pic
is it supposed to be right above the right brake light?

 

Here is a better angle I snagged off an Ebay listing...its actually above the reverse light..

Mark A

 

PERFECT!
Thank you so much!
Do you know if that was stock, or if that was something the guys did, cause back then you could just buy the GTX emblem and put it where ever you wanted.

 

ya know, I can't honestly say that I have ever seen the Concourse-like placement definition, but every 67 GTX I ever looked at when I was looking for mine had it there. YearOne catalog has is a decent reference for logo placement.

 

K, thanks a lot
If you need any help with your car, just ask me, and i'll do my best to return the favor

 

that looks to be the original spot...

should be on the Fenders too, UNDER Belvedere

 

ya
i have it on both front fenders
i just need it now on the trunk, but the car is a real GTX, so it must have been taken off at one point

 

I have found that incorrect restorations are to blame for most of that...

People replace sheet metal, and do not replace emblems or logos...

Nice ride
E

 

you too
our cars are almost the same
are your rims original or the reproductions?
im looking for new rims and im wondering which way to go

 

Cool man...

The car actually belongs to my pops. He had another '67 in 1967, but had to sell of course (see avatar)...my mom bought him this one for their 25th anniversary...pretty nice gift huh?

The car had a very nice interior and exterior restoration at some point before we bought it. However, the motor never ran quite right, and spit oil upon cold starts and WOT.

I put it on the dyno at the shop I work at and it made no power whatsoever...so, we decided that it was time to tear the 440 down and rebuild it as well as the 915 heads which are pretty stout for OEM stuff. So far, it just appears that the motor is simply worn out from years and years of hard revolutions. I also discovered that it was bored .030" over already (according to the engraving on the piston faces).

The crank moves foward and back indicating a shot thrust bearing, and the cam moves as well...not sure what damage has been done, but I know for a fact that it is fugged up, lol.

I will begin posting pics later this week in both the b body and DIY sections so everyone can follow my progress.

As far as the wheels go, I am not 100% sure. They are 15" magnum wheels with a nice chrome plate on them. My Dad may know!

Nice to meet you, any more pics?

Erik

 

do you know about the zinc problem?
oh, i wish i could dyno mine
that is a sweet 25th anniversary, lol

 

Here are a few pics from when we got it and during the rebuild that me and my Dad did on the motor

 

AWESOME!

I never heard about the zinc issues with the oil...then again, I am only 23, so I would not expect to know much about the history of these motors, and vehicles. I am learning though everyday.

I am sure once a motor is rebuilt using modern parts and alloys/bearings, you can use modern synthetic oil in them. Not sure what the zinc would have been for, maybe additional lubrication or something? Or maybe it was a preventative of some sort? I know that the lead in fuels acted as a lubricant in the cylinder heads. We are having his 915 heads machined for use with modern unleaded octane which will be nice!

NICE CAR MAN!

 

If you're not using a roller cam, you need to make sure your oil has sufficient zinc in it to keep from wiping the cam lobes. There have been some problems with that recently. There are a couple of other threads that have talked about it, and give a listing of oils that have them, or some additives to use.

 

I though that you can re-do the 915 heads to run on the unleaded fuel because the sets aren't pressed into place?

The zinc was taken out of the oil. It caused lifter and cam failures. You'll lose oil pressue, then the metal will fling through the engine, like in my case, scratching the crank shaft and destroying my berings.

 

If you guys use the valvoline vr1 oil you will be right back in the numbers of the zinc , the synth, oil has only about 850ppm of zinc where the vr1 is double that and i tried the synth, and it almost destroyed my engine and when i talked to a valvoline rep he told me all about the oil problems , you pay alittle more for the synth, then the vr1 and it can hurt a motor , if you are running different brands of oils let me know and ill see what the best of that brand is for you k , but i personally would use the vr1 if you are not planning on running it in the snow/cold

 

i'm running Rotella T

 

I just cut this from the other post. Hagerty Insurance had an article on oils for classics in thier magazine a few months back, and this is what I took from the article.

This issue of Hagerty's insured magazine covers this topic. Using thier research, ZDDP is the additive that's being left out of most oils. Also, thier article shows the follwing oils still have a sufficient amount of ZDDP to protect our engines. Going from Most to Least, they listed the following oils: Classic car motor oil, manufactured by D-A lubricant co, approx 1500-1600 ppm (dalube.com), Valvoline VR1 Racing oil & Red Line oil, both having approximately 1300 ppm; Castrol Syntec 20W50, 1200 ppm (but remember synthetic isn't too advised for breakins) Brad Penn oil with 1500ppm, mineral oil of course. Shell offers the oil for both gas & Diesel, with approx 1000 ppm, and you can get just the ZDDP additive from ZDDPlus (zddplus.com). They don't give a minimum acceptible level, but current levels are set at 800 ppm or less, and they imply that this is a case where more is better.

There were a couple more relevant and good posts on the subject in the same thread, It was "removing the cam" about two months ago.

 

ya, i remember reading that article too
i think what i'm using has 800