72 Charger - Ignition Issues

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Old 05-25-2010, 12:02 PM
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72 Charger - Ignition Issues

As said I have a 1972 Dodge charger with a 360 in it, the motor cranks and turns over however it is getting no fire, it is not electronic ignition. I have checked the coil, voltage regulater, basllist resistor, plugs, wires, points on the distributer.

The spark plugs, wires, and coil are almost new and check out good. We have also tried putting a different voltage regulater and ballist resistor on, but still no results, as well as another coil.

I am at a loss for what the problem could be, and tips or suggestions?

Last edited by ThomasErickson; 05-25-2010 at 12:06 PM.
Old 05-25-2010, 12:18 PM
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Do a continuity test on your condenser. If current flows through it, it will allow current to ground and coil will not fire.
Old 05-25-2010, 02:43 PM
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Check the tower shaft in the distributor. It may be bent and not allowing the points to break or make contact.
Old 05-25-2010, 04:29 PM
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ive even seen bad body grounds from the battery engine to fire keep a car from starting up.
Old 05-25-2010, 06:31 PM
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gents -

Gonna show my lack of knowledge, do points ignitions use "burn boxes" (resistors)? Sorry, I've only worked with electronic ignition systems, even in the 70's ...

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Old 05-25-2010, 07:00 PM
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i have a 72 charger to and had the same issue and found the plug under the dash on the colom for the ignition was messed up. the prongs for the plugs were falling out. just something to check...
good luck
Old 05-25-2010, 07:11 PM
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To narrow down the problem pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap (center terminal) and checl for spark there. If there is is spark your primary circuit works the problem lies in the secondary circuit-- rotor, cap, coil(secondary side), plug wires, plugs. If no spark at the coil wire the problem is in the primary circuit--- points, condenser (<--- actually I would worry about condensor car can run without it) coil (primary side) ballest resistor, ignition switch. Bottom line here if no spark at coil wire I would check for power at the coil + terminal it should be battery voltage while cranking then around 8 volts when (and if) running.
Old 05-27-2010, 04:21 PM
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I would recommend to skip the OEM equipment all together and go with MSD or the likes but you already spent some decent money on replacing parts. Everything that i would check has already been mentioned so i'l just wish you good luck and suggest you try to take a step back and look for the less obvious culprit
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