72 Charger - Ignition Issues
#1
72 Charger - Ignition Issues
As said I have a 1972 Dodge charger with a 360 in it, the motor cranks and turns over however it is getting no fire, it is not electronic ignition. I have checked the coil, voltage regulater, basllist resistor, plugs, wires, points on the distributer.
The spark plugs, wires, and coil are almost new and check out good. We have also tried putting a different voltage regulater and ballist resistor on, but still no results, as well as another coil.
I am at a loss for what the problem could be, and tips or suggestions?
The spark plugs, wires, and coil are almost new and check out good. We have also tried putting a different voltage regulater and ballist resistor on, but still no results, as well as another coil.
I am at a loss for what the problem could be, and tips or suggestions?
Last edited by ThomasErickson; 05-25-2010 at 12:06 PM.
#5
Mopar Lover
gents -
Gonna show my lack of knowledge, do points ignitions use "burn boxes" (resistors)? Sorry, I've only worked with electronic ignition systems, even in the 70's ...
Archer
Gonna show my lack of knowledge, do points ignitions use "burn boxes" (resistors)? Sorry, I've only worked with electronic ignition systems, even in the 70's ...
Archer
#6
i have a 72 charger to and had the same issue and found the plug under the dash on the colom for the ignition was messed up. the prongs for the plugs were falling out. just something to check...
good luck
good luck
#7
To narrow down the problem pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap (center terminal) and checl for spark there. If there is is spark your primary circuit works the problem lies in the secondary circuit-- rotor, cap, coil(secondary side), plug wires, plugs. If no spark at the coil wire the problem is in the primary circuit--- points, condenser (<--- actually I would worry about condensor car can run without it) coil (primary side) ballest resistor, ignition switch. Bottom line here if no spark at coil wire I would check for power at the coil + terminal it should be battery voltage while cranking then around 8 volts when (and if) running.
#8
Mopar Fanatic
I would recommend to skip the OEM equipment all together and go with MSD or the likes but you already spent some decent money on replacing parts. Everything that i would check has already been mentioned so i'l just wish you good luck and suggest you try to take a step back and look for the less obvious culprit
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