twindragon6

So here is the problem. I have a direct short to ground somewhere in the ignition system/lights section of the bulkhead connector on the dash side of the harness. One day I went to fill up and the car wouldn't start. No crank only a single click could be heard (relay engaging). I put the car in neutral and tried again with the same result. I don't have the bench seat hooked up to the interlock system but I figured something may have tripped it so I reached under the hood and pressed the reset for the ignition on the firewall. The car started. Upon leaving the gas station the amp meter pointed straight to drain. The faster I drove the larger the drain. I replaced the alternator, charged the battery and checked my voltage regulator. Same problem. I have disconnected all the fuses from the fuse box, disconnected all the harnesses from the bulkhead to the engine compartment, disconnected the rear light harness from the dash harness, disconnected the steering column, the wires that go into the heater, the radio and completely removed the dashboard. when I removed the dash the short stopped. If I jump the amp meter wires the short returns. If I remove the forward light harness the short stops. If I remove the the forward light harness and jump the bulkhead to the fusible link on the relay (bypassing the link) the short returns (big 10awg red wire). When I disconnect the starter I still have a short. If I remove the blue interlock box the short stops. If I bypass it the short returns. Any ideas?

twindragon6

440roadrunner has some good info in a post here.
https://moparforums.com/forums/f40/1...219/#post72480
I still haven't fixed this problem yet. I'm about to rewire the whole car out of frustration!

twindragon6

Okay, I just checked it with a volt meter and I'm getting V3.45+ on the hot side up on the ballast resistor with the ignition in the on position. It looks like it's somewhere in there but I have no idea what to check next. I know that's crazy high for something that is supposed to be V0.2- so I'm going to look at some wiring diagrams.

twindragon6

I found out what was going on finally! The lead off the starter relay for the neutral safety switch had shorted out on my headers causing a dead short in the charging and starting systems! There is no fuseable link anyware on that lead and there wasn't enough amperage flowing to pop the main for the alternator. It caused a 10V unswitched draw even when the car was off with the rear and forward light harnesses disconnected, the steering electrical disconnected, the alternator disconnected, and everything in the drivers side kick panel disconnected. Always wrap your headers!!!

RacerHog

Thanks For the Up Date !!!!!