Battry
Measure the tray size and the height of the area that the battery goes..see which side the terminals are on and the parts store should be able look the right one up for you by application or by size...Bill
thanks
Thanks RH, I'd like to see if will still turnover, been sitting for about 15yrs-with abt 42000 original miles on this car. RH have you done any projects like this. Maybe some pointers please?
Last edited by "64"Polara; Feb 18, 2014 at 02:15 PM.
Last edited by pro-tech; Feb 18, 2014 at 02:37 PM.
parts
Oh Man thanks for the to do list- maybe Id better wait on the battry! thankx
a) are parts still available at the parts house or do I gotta go to a specialist parts place. Oh yay not low budget but no budget-ha. thanks again for the help
a) are parts still available at the parts house or do I gotta go to a specialist parts place. Oh yay not low budget but no budget-ha. thanks again for the help
800 cranking amps???? Unless you have a 600 hp monster or drive it at -40F, this is overkill. 4-500 CA is plenty. These cars would have originally had either a group 24 (not F, Ford) or 27
Anyplace that sells car batteries should be able to look up the application. If they cannot, change stores, or at least change parts counter "person"
On conventional lead-acid batteries, weight is far more important than the warrantee. The robot in the assembly line can glue any sticker on the side, but when you pick up a "24 month" and a "50 month" and they weigh the same, you are getting screwed.
Anyplace that sells car batteries should be able to look up the application. If they cannot, change stores, or at least change parts counter "person"
On conventional lead-acid batteries, weight is far more important than the warrantee. The robot in the assembly line can glue any sticker on the side, but when you pick up a "24 month" and a "50 month" and they weigh the same, you are getting screwed.


