Hi guys, a while ago i was on here complaining about timing issues. After research it was found that my distributor was the culprit. I ordered a recommended replacement from Mancini , now its installed but the car will not run. First let me update on what was done. I marked where the vacuum advance was pointing and where the rotor was pointing before starting. I installed the new electronic module on my inner fender, sanded to bare metal in the are of the two sheet metal screws to hold it down are. on the new harness cut off green wire as instructed, removed both sets of wires connected to the ballast, turned on the key and found which side was live found 11 vlts, i connected the blue wire to this wire, i ran the black to the negative side of the coil, made sure the positive side of the coil ran to the opposite side of the ballast, connected the plug coming out of harness to distributor. Before installing new distributor i set the electronic pickup to .008 using a brass feeler. When i replaced the cap i changed wire for wire to make sure they were in order. when i installed the new distributor i made sure rotor was facing exactly where my mark was. I tested the ground pin on the module and found continuity to ground. I turned on the key and checked the harness and found the blue wire slot showed 11 vlts. With the key still on i touched the pins on each side of the wire running from harness to distributor and at lo voltage setting got zero , i was wondering if this is the correct way to test this line thanks pete

 

Hello Pete,,,
OK... I'm think your using the single Ballast resister? Going to assume this was the install of the new system?
https://www.google.com/search?q=mopa...58p51o_MN_FmM:

Good So Far?

 

Check the Ignition source..... Make sure you have 12 volts when you are cranking the engine over, Not just with the ignition key in the run position....
I'm shooting this off to you to look at. If you dont find the issue. Let me know and will get after it with you...
http://www.fourforty.com/techstuff/ignition.html

Trouble shooter is down a couple paragraphs..

Keep us posted...

 

One other thing comes to mind at this moment.... Take the Distributor cap off and crank the engine and make sure the rotor is turning?

 

Thanks Bob, i checked the ballast 1.24 of resistance, i checked coil high side 7.4 k ohms low side 2.5 ohms, I tested pin 1 with key on 12.1 vlts while trying to start 12vlts i tested pin 4 to battery ground i have continuity, i tested positive and negative on coil with key on both showed 12.5 volts, rotor spins, i set gap at .008 using brass feeler, i checked reading at connector the goes to distributor with key off .5 vlts I feel its the new ecu is defective. any thoughts? pete

 

Did you do as Bob said and pull the cap and verify the rotor turning?

 

Looks like he did.....

OK... You said the Neg. side of the coil shows hot all the time? That side should be dead and only light the test light when cranking....
If it is hot all the time.... Test the ECU buy the instruction.... If that fails, Replace the ecu..... If the ECU test good, then the coil is bad, You already tested the reluctor pick up in the Distributor and found it to be good.

Oh and one other thing... When your testing for spark with the spark plug, Ground the hex to something and look for spark... The plug needs to be grounded... This was not clear so i'm just checking on ya...

Just my 2 cents...

 

yes