Laura Cullen Reynolds

I dropped a rebuilt 360 into my 73 charger. For some reason, I can not get it timed. I followed the instructions to set the #1 on the distributor in line with the front drivers side corner where the intake and header meet.

I've warmed up the car and have the idle set. When I look at the timing, it is above 10 BTDC. When I turn the distributor so that the timing is at 10 BTDC, the car runs rough and bogs down,

Could the distributor be one tooth off and still run as good as it does? It starts right up and runs smooth if I don't set the timing at 10 BTDC.

TVLynn

It's a question. Need to start by checking the top dead center mark on the balancer
it could have slipped. Make sure you are setting it at 10 BTDC not 10 ATDC the 360 may have both marks

440roadrunner

I would ABSOLUTELY check with a piston stop to see if the timing marks are correct, and also degree the balancer (or buy correct size timing tape) so you can see where the timing is advancing:


Remove battery ground, make sure no 1 piston is down a ways, and install in the plug hole. Wrench the engine around until it stops against the device. make a temporary mark on the balancer directly under TDC on the timing tab.

Do the same thing rotating CCW. You will have two temporary marks some distance apart. The correct TDC is halfway in between, and if the factory mark is correct, that is where it will be.





The thing" about timing traditional V8 engines. This does NOT apply to some V6s (even/odd fire) and some 4 bangers.

"The book" shows how to insert the intermediate shaft, that is the drive gear/ oil pump drive, and if done properly, everything comes out "OK"

THE REASON it is originally done that way is

so the assembly line folk can wrench, repeat

so the plug wires "lay" nice

so the tune up guys "see" what they expect.

The TRUTH is you can close your eyes and drop the drive gear in ANYPLACE, plug the distributor in "any" old way, and and then bring the timing marks up on no1 ready to fire, and plug the no1 wire in wherever the rotor points, and it will run just fine.

If the vacuum can is off interfering with something, you can simply turn it where you want, bring no1 up to fire, and plug the no1 wire into where the rotor is pointing.

HERE IS the steps to setting up an engine dist.

1---It is important to realize, that when the cam timing marks are set "by the book" that is cam at 6 o'clock, crank at 12 o' clock, this is NOT no1 ready to fire, but rather no6 ready to fire.

So you either have to plug in the dist. pointing to no6, or rotate the engine 1 turn

2---After the cam is timed, with the timing marks on TDC, the "book" shows how to insert the intermediate shaft. if yours is incorrect and you want to correct it, you can simply use a large screwdriver and "walk" the gear up out of the helix and move it whichever way it needs

The gear on a small block should have the slot pointing nearly straight inline with the crank, just a tad to the driver side pointing at the front most manifold bolt

A B/RB gear the slot should be essentially inline with the crank

3---With this in place, now bring up the no1 cylinder ready to fire NOT on TDC but rather WHERE you want initial timing to be. There are two ways to do that

A---If either valve cover is off, bring the timing marks up to where you want initial time, IE 10BTC or so for a bone stocker, 15-20 for a "cam" or maybe even a little more for a real hot cam
Look at either the no1 or no6 valves. Whichever set of valves is CLOSED indicates which cylinder is ready to fire. If no 6 are closed, you can either plug the dist. in with rotor pointing to rear (no6) or rotate the crank one turn, and plug the dist in for no1 (rotor pointing forward)

B---If the valve covers are on, pull the no1 plug, stick your finger in the hole, and bump the engine around. When you START to feel compression, watch the timing marks, and bring them up to initial time, IE 10-12 BTC

Now plug the dist. in, rotor pointing forward, and put the vacuum can approximately where it should be.

I always mark the dist. upper rim directly under the no1 tower so I don't have to argue with teh cap.

Rotate the dist RETARD (cw for small block, ccw for B/RB) to "get the slack" out of the drive, then slowly ease the housing back advanced until

the points open if you are using points

or until the reluctor tip is centered in the pickup coil core.

This procedure should get you close enough that the engine will start and run with no fuss. Then of course just take your timing light and adjust from there

An aside.

I'm a HUGE believer in checking actual TDC with a piston stop, which you can make or buy



The drawings show proper orientation of the drive gear for small and B/RB engines Attached Images

Laura Cullen Reynolds

I turned the engine to TDC on #1 compression stroke. My zero marks lined up perfectly. When I put my timing light on #1 plug wire, run the car at idle, the timing mark show about 30 BTDC.

If I take the vacuum advance off the carb and it drops to 20 BTDC. Should I be setting the timing with this on or off? I have read both ways, so not positive. By the "book" there is no mention of taking the vacuum advance off.

It runs great at this, but I want it to be right.

Also, just so that the facts are straight on the engine, it is a 1977 360 out of an either an Aspen or an RV that was bored 40 over and I have an RV cam in it.

This has me totally bamboozled!! I am usually a by the book kinda of gal, but I have followed the book but something is just not right.

Gorts 5th

what type of distributor and what type carb?
sounds like your using the vacuum port on the carb instead of the timed vacuum port, you should use the timed port so at idle you will have zero vacuum on the advance, then set your 10 degrees of timing
then set your idle and air fuel mix screws and adjust your idle accordingly as the air/fuel mix screws are set.
you cant be off one tooth on a mopar distributor only 180 degrees off
try these and see what happens.

Laura Cullen Reynolds

I don't know where the "timed vacuum" port is.

As far as what kind of distributor, it's just what ever Auto Zone had. The Carb is an Edelbrock.

Gorts 5th

what kind of carb is it holly edelbrock? ok i see edel
the timed port is on the passenger side at the base the one on the drivers side is full vacuum at idle
set your timing 12 degrees btdc and then hook up your vac advance.
the ports will look alike but are usually on opposite side's of the carb one will have full vacuum at idle the other will have zero vacuum is the one you want at idle, if you have a vacuum gauge use that to test the ports maybe post some photos?
auto zone was it a msd or a replacement oem ?

Gorts 5th

what type of cam lift and duration?
if your using the edel you should be able to turn the air fuel mix screws about 1 1/2 turns from bottomed out is this a new carb if you got the directions follow them or go to the edel web page and down load a copy and depending on your base vacuum reading you may need to change the power valve springs you may be idling with them open/ the rods are up in power mode.

440roadrunner

Most modern cars use what is called "ported" or "timed" vacuum off the carb as opposed to "full vacuum" off eitehr the carb or the manifold. These ports are on different places on different carbs. One easy way is simply, with the car idling, see which port(s) don't advance the timing at idle.

I would STILL recommend you go through the positive stop method and check the timing marks for accuracy. The balancers can slip, there's always manufacturing tolerances, and some motor home/ truck engines used different marks/ pointers.