Weird problem with Hazard and dome lights
#1
Weird problem with Hazard and dome lights
So my brake lights never worked and neither did the hazard and dome lights, but as some of you already know, I was attending to other problems and found a blown fuse for the brake, hazard and dome lights
The brake switch is fubar'd and now the brake lights stay on all the time, but at least I know the problem is an easy fix (I pulled one of the wires until I can get a new switch)
Dome light works as it should with the doors, but I'm not able to turn it on with the roller
As for the hazard lights, when I flip the switch, only the right front signal light blinks
All parking lights and headlights work as they should with the main switch, but with the hazard switch, all I get is the right front.
Anyone run into this problem?
The brake switch is fubar'd and now the brake lights stay on all the time, but at least I know the problem is an easy fix (I pulled one of the wires until I can get a new switch)
Dome light works as it should with the doors, but I'm not able to turn it on with the roller
As for the hazard lights, when I flip the switch, only the right front signal light blinks
All parking lights and headlights work as they should with the main switch, but with the hazard switch, all I get is the right front.
Anyone run into this problem?
#3
stop brake switches almost never go so thats a new one on me.
If only the front blinks go around checking the bulbs someone could have but a 1156 in an 1157 socket. It's easy to check.
Second behind the front grill you should see a wire that is black with an open eyelet on it. Thats the ground and it should be grounded sometimes the wire brakes or rusts and can cause that problem. In a blacked out shop the other lights probably blink but are so low you cant see them.
Ill try to phone your cell later to give you a hand.
If only the front blinks go around checking the bulbs someone could have but a 1156 in an 1157 socket. It's easy to check.
Second behind the front grill you should see a wire that is black with an open eyelet on it. Thats the ground and it should be grounded sometimes the wire brakes or rusts and can cause that problem. In a blacked out shop the other lights probably blink but are so low you cant see them.
Ill try to phone your cell later to give you a hand.
#4
WHAT are we working on?
===============================
So far as the dash dimmer/ dome switch, this is a simple deal. Just about all cars used the yellow as a ground switching wire for the dome lights. There should be a yellow going to the light switch/ dash dimmer so that when you "twist the ****" it causes the yellow to be grounded. Of course the light switch has to be actually grounded
===============================
So are you saying that the SIGNAL lights all work but the HAZARD do not?
If your hazard switch is integral with the TS switch and you only have one hazard blink, then it almost has to be a bad TS/ hazard switch
If you have an older car with a separate hazard switch, it might be mis--wired, or a bad switch.
The older switch is basically a 3 pole single throw switch. That is, a 4 terminal switch into the common pin of which is fed the output of the 4x flasher.
When the switch is activated, ALL FOUR terminals are hooked together. The other three go to
1--the output (cold side) of the brake light switch, which then routes to both rear lamps with the main TS switch centered,
2, and 3--to the left and right front signal lamps.
So if you have that type switch, it might be that you have a bad switch, or that the switch connector or wiring is AFU
=============================
If your brake light switch looks like that one with adjustable nuts, it's probably the "better" of the current lot, at least you can adjust the switch.
===============================
So far as the dash dimmer/ dome switch, this is a simple deal. Just about all cars used the yellow as a ground switching wire for the dome lights. There should be a yellow going to the light switch/ dash dimmer so that when you "twist the ****" it causes the yellow to be grounded. Of course the light switch has to be actually grounded
===============================
So are you saying that the SIGNAL lights all work but the HAZARD do not?
If your hazard switch is integral with the TS switch and you only have one hazard blink, then it almost has to be a bad TS/ hazard switch
If you have an older car with a separate hazard switch, it might be mis--wired, or a bad switch.
The older switch is basically a 3 pole single throw switch. That is, a 4 terminal switch into the common pin of which is fed the output of the 4x flasher.
When the switch is activated, ALL FOUR terminals are hooked together. The other three go to
1--the output (cold side) of the brake light switch, which then routes to both rear lamps with the main TS switch centered,
2, and 3--to the left and right front signal lamps.
So if you have that type switch, it might be that you have a bad switch, or that the switch connector or wiring is AFU
=============================
If your brake light switch looks like that one with adjustable nuts, it's probably the "better" of the current lot, at least you can adjust the switch.
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 04-07-2013 at 11:03 AM.
#6
Here's the one I have:
Which I guess the replacement is this:
The ball on the end of mine has either been worn off or snapped off
Here are some pix of the wires we talked about:
Sorry, I thought I was being redundant with all the other threads
It's a '69 Road Runner
Yes, the signals all work fine, however, they work all the time (even without the key)
Park and Headlights all work fine as well.
The brake lights don't work, but I already know the problem is the pedal switch.
I'm gunna check all the bulbs and grind all the grounds as it looks like they were all bolted down over fresh paint, then go from there
Which I guess the replacement is this:
The ball on the end of mine has either been worn off or snapped off
If only the front blinks go around checking the bulbs someone could have but a 1156 in an 1157 socket. It's easy to check.
Second behind the front grill you should see a wire that is black with an open eyelet on it. Thats the ground and it should be grounded sometimes the wire brakes or rusts and can cause that problem. In a blacked out shop the other lights probably blink but are so low you cant see them.
Ill try to phone your cell later to give you a hand.
Second behind the front grill you should see a wire that is black with an open eyelet on it. Thats the ground and it should be grounded sometimes the wire brakes or rusts and can cause that problem. In a blacked out shop the other lights probably blink but are so low you cant see them.
Ill try to phone your cell later to give you a hand.
Here are some pix of the wires we talked about:
Sorry, I thought I was being redundant with all the other threads
It's a '69 Road Runner
===============================
So far as the dash dimmer/ dome switch, this is a simple deal. Just about all cars used the yellow as a ground switching wire for the dome lights. There should be a yellow going to the light switch/ dash dimmer so that when you "twist the ****" it causes the yellow to be grounded. Of course the light switch has to be actually grounded
===============================
So are you saying that the SIGNAL lights all work but the HAZARD do not?
So far as the dash dimmer/ dome switch, this is a simple deal. Just about all cars used the yellow as a ground switching wire for the dome lights. There should be a yellow going to the light switch/ dash dimmer so that when you "twist the ****" it causes the yellow to be grounded. Of course the light switch has to be actually grounded
===============================
So are you saying that the SIGNAL lights all work but the HAZARD do not?
Yes, the signals all work fine, however, they work all the time (even without the key)
Park and Headlights all work fine as well.
The brake lights don't work, but I already know the problem is the pedal switch.
If your hazard switch is integral with the TS switch and you only have one hazard blink, then it almost has to be a bad TS/ hazard switch
If you have an older car with a separate hazard switch, it might be mis--wired, or a bad switch.
The older switch is basically a 3 pole single throw switch. That is, a 4 terminal switch into the common pin of which is fed the output of the 4x flasher.
When the switch is activated, ALL FOUR terminals are hooked together. The other three go to
1--the output (cold side) of the brake light switch, which then routes to both rear lamps with the main TS switch centered,
2, and 3--to the left and right front signal lamps.
So if you have that type switch, it might be that you have a bad switch, or that the switch connector or wiring is AFU
=============================
If your brake light switch looks like that one with adjustable nuts, it's probably the "better" of the current lot, at least you can adjust the switch.
If you have an older car with a separate hazard switch, it might be mis--wired, or a bad switch.
The older switch is basically a 3 pole single throw switch. That is, a 4 terminal switch into the common pin of which is fed the output of the 4x flasher.
When the switch is activated, ALL FOUR terminals are hooked together. The other three go to
1--the output (cold side) of the brake light switch, which then routes to both rear lamps with the main TS switch centered,
2, and 3--to the left and right front signal lamps.
So if you have that type switch, it might be that you have a bad switch, or that the switch connector or wiring is AFU
=============================
If your brake light switch looks like that one with adjustable nuts, it's probably the "better" of the current lot, at least you can adjust the switch.
I'm gunna check all the bulbs and grind all the grounds as it looks like they were all bolted down over fresh paint, then go from there
#7
OK, so I pulled the brake switch bracket and replaced the fubar'd switch with a brand new replacement
Unfortunately, there was still a 1/2" gap between the pedal contact and the nub and it just wouldn't work
So, I installed an el-cheapo adjustable switch and it seems to be working fine
Unfortunately, there was still a 1/2" gap between the pedal contact and the nub and it just wouldn't work
So, I installed an el-cheapo adjustable switch and it seems to be working fine
#8
When you posted the first photo of the adjustable switch, that is what I thought you had. I much prefer the adjustable ones to the original types.
If the signals work without the key "on" then something is mis--wired. Nice lookin 69 by the way. My first RR was a 69 383, my second was a 70 six barrel car, limelight. My all time favorite car. If I could afford to, I'd duplicate it today.
If the signals work without the key "on" then something is mis--wired. Nice lookin 69 by the way. My first RR was a 69 383, my second was a 70 six barrel car, limelight. My all time favorite car. If I could afford to, I'd duplicate it today.
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 04-10-2013 at 08:56 PM.
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