67 -

Guess the real question was: is the ZDDP OIL worth it? Seems like an easy fix, even if it's not the cheapest. The older ISKY cam should be "tougher" than most of the modern offerings, but the lifters are new and that might be the weakest link.

Archer

 

It depends on how much of a gambler you are... it cost me a little over $350 and a couple weeks work to swap out the cam and lifters, and that's just taking a chance that none of the metal got into the bearings. I promise you, I won't forget to either get a high zinc oil or an additive again lol.

 

it is definetly worth it
look at it this way
roller cam and lifters 800 and up
traditional cam and lifters
300 and up
engine re-build: hundreds, thats if you dont have metal in bearings

 

Guys -

Guess my writing talents aren't as good as I thought. I meant does the ZDDP work (actually have enough zinc/lubes in it to make a difference??? I take it by your answers that it does. I'd rather just order that than try to figure out who still has zinc, and how much, in the the mix!

Buck -

I don't gamble with the car at all !

Archer

 

According to http://www.zddp.net/

 

67 -

Got it, thanks!

OK, one more question ...

Any thoughts on Z-ALT oil? Just looking for options.

Thanks again!!!

Archer.

 

i dont think i have ever heard of it

 

67 -

This stuff

Thanks

Archer

 

I have never heard of that either. I would say to check it and make sure it has the required amount of zinc along with what other additives it may have.

 

2x on that

 

This link is worth the read... http://slantsix.org/articles/Modern_Engine_Oils.htm The price at the local dealer is much higher than stated though. I think I got it for about 28 dollars!

 

thanks for posting that

 

Yeah, that was a good article....Thanks!

 

ok you can ad it just know if your catalytic converter or emissions controls give issues the warranty will not cover them with the added zddp and yes it will make a motor last about three times as many miles it reduces weat and friction in all areas of oil coat. Hence our engines went from 500 k plus to less than 300k hint we owned two 2016 jeep rengades new one I used zddp exclusively. The other only recommended oil at oe rec omemended change intervals. The one without zddp blew at 387. K the other same motor gearing tires exc is still running strong. At 400k and is still withing manufacture tolerances as far as wear on bearings and pressured surfaces as per our 250 k breakdown and reassembly. It helps but it will kill a cat.

 

Sorry to see what happened Buck. I'm going to say something that isn't popular. Zinc, break-in oils and additives are the PROBLEM!! All you need is a highly rated PSI oil. Preferably over 100000 PSI with flat tappet cams. The zinc craze has actually caused more wear at high levels. In the past I used Lucas 10w30 Classic Car oil with high zinc content. I unknowingly didn't realize the PSI was around 63000 (very low and damaging to flat tappet cams). My cam wore a lobe and lifter like yours. I was made aware of an engineer's blog regarding oil, zinc, cam break-ins and high PSI oils. All the bull out there about high revs and zinc needed to break a cam in along with break-in oils was disproven. The blog is 540RAT and he's a wealth of information. I used the number 1 PSI oil after replacing my cam and lifters without the 20-minute revs, left the high-pressure valve springs attached. I basically assembled the cam with a coating of Quaker State 5w30 full synthetic as RAT suggested and started it, set the timing and have been driving it since. Quaker 5w30 Full Synthetic is rated upwards of around 153000 PSI well over the 100000 PSI for flat tappet cams. 540RAT strongly condems the use of additives and break-in oils.

Note: These engines way back in time when they drove out of the factory didn't go through all the ritualistic revs and additives, they were just driven. As a former Chrysler mechanic from the 70's I've seen a thing or two. Gary