Greetings crew members.

So dig this: my 45 year old heater doesn't really push warm air. Trying to get myself educated here. Can you explain what causes heater core failure? Can it be 'fixed' or is it always a 'replace'?
Where do I begin, my wallet?

Interested in your thoughts- and guidance.

Regards, Capt. Boompy's Deep Water Charter Service

 

Mine (66 Plymouth Sport Fury) sprang a slow leak which they normally do when they go bad and I paid someone a lot of money to change it. Is your fan motor working at full speed? My guess, and I am far from an authority, is poor ciruculation due to blocked passages (old anti-freeze, dirt etc) could be part of the problem. I just took one out of a 68 Barracuda (piece of cake and my first time) and the replacment is $52 through Classic Industries with me doing the work. The one I took out looks great but, after 10 minutes with a pressure hose, orange water is still coming out. I was told it was old anti-freeze that had hardened and stuck to the passages.

 

My 2 cent.... It's better just to replace it....
Flush the system and add Distilled water and antifreeze only...

 

My fan motor is working, blowing cool air.
I'll do some research on Classic Industries- thanks for the tip.

Regards, Capt. Boompy's Deep Water Charter Service

 

I agree.
Never would have thought of using 'distilled' water.
Makes sense to me- thanks for the tip.

Thanks to everyone who was willing to share the knowledge.
Regards, Capt. Boompy's Deep Water Charter Service

 

Numba Whone troubleshooting aid is your hand

With the engine fully warm, and the heater set for maximum hot, FEEL the hoses. You may need to run the engine at a fast idle. Both hoses should be too hot to touch for more than a moment.

There are only so many reasons why heaters don't work

No particular order:

1....Bad water pump. You'd be amazed......in cool weather, some engines work "fine" with the impeller broken loose from the shaft, Google "Model T" and "convection"

2....Plugged "stuff". Rust/ junk can plug the hoses, the hose fittings, valve, core

3...Bad water control valve if used

4....If the hoses are hot...............

4A...Junk, leaves, etc in the intake, ducting, 'mousies'

4B...Loose blower wheel, dragging, etc. Does the blower make odd noise?

4C...Dragging blower bushings / bearings.

5D...Loose / broken / unworking control doors and or levers/ cables / vacuum controls.

 

[QUOTE=440roadrunner;114584]Numba Whone troubleshooting aid is your hand
QUOTE]

Man, I love this forum.
Thank you, thank you- VERY helpful pointers.
I've been away from old V-8's for 20 years too long...

Temps here should soar all the way to 33 tropical degrees Saturday.
I want to start "Casper" and run it for a while.
Definately be using your troubleshooting tips to figure this out.
I'll post my findings.
Looking forward to more enlightening MoPar conversation.

Thanks for taking the time, much appreciated.
Regards, Capt. Boompy's Deep Water Charter Service.

 

On my 69 Imperial there is a vacuum actuated valve on the passenger inner fender. I had an issue with it ... It was not operating correctly.

try bypassing it and see if that works!

I had to replace mine.

 

Thanks for the tip.
With so much USEFUL advice from all my new found MoPar friends, I should have this heater issue fixed in no time.
As cold as it was that first night, I'm now wondering if the thermostat had even opened-up.

Stay tuned, Capt. Boompy

 

Greetings crew members.

ALWAYS a great day when you get to DRIVE your old MoPar.
"Casper" started right-up. About 30 degrees here.
A little cough when I 'mash it', but that's another thread.

"440roadrunner" and "Side_show", you both lead me in the right dirrection.
First of all, the little chrome slide control (warmer-cooler) feels like a limp noodle. No resistance felt from 'hot to cold'. I did notice a slight "hiss" pushing the lever to 'cold'. Felt the hoses- see below for findings.

On to the pictures.
Found this canister item on the passenger fender...








I'm thinking the item above has to do with the picture below?





The heater fan motor sounds healthy.
I removed the radiator cap and the fluid can be seen circulating.
Upper radiator hose was hot (warm to the touch).

Very interested in your thoughts.
Many thanks, Capt. Boompy

 

SO, that "whats this" is the valve I had to replace on mine (although it looks slightly different) once the car is warmed up turn the heater on and that hose that you've labeled "NOT HOT" should definitely be hot .... theres a valve inside that stops the hot water from flowing into the heater core when your heat is turned off.

Those lines are air conditioning sensor **** ..... condenser sensor or something like that ... has nothing to do with your heat.


- Side Show

 

OK Man, I can dig it.
Please know I appreciate your help.

As you suggested, I could bypass the vacuum canister valve thingy to see if my heater core is working. I'm a little suspicious about those 'skid marks' on the passenger-side carpet.

Before I open-up "Casper's" veins, I want to use 440RoadRunner's advice and double-triple check (that's 6 times!) my vacuum lines & hoses. I'll check between the heater slide control and the gates the hoses should be running to- down there in the dark regions under the dash.

Seems to me I've seen heater core housings on the firewall (of other makes) in the past- or at least something to give the impression there's an inclosure there. As you've noticed from the pics, my '69 must have everything pertaining to the heater core up under the dash. Perhaps a good contortion exercise for my 49 year old back will do me some good. I can picture myself laying on the passenger-side floor with my butt on the seat... and my feet on the headliner.

They're forecasting a warm-up here for later in the week.
I'll do some investigating then and post my findings.
Thanks again, Side_show. Hope I can be as helpful to you sometime.
Stay tuned...

Regards, Capt. Boompy's Deep Water Charter Service

 

Oh yea, Baby- who's your Daddy?
I AM.

I HAVE HEAT!

First of all, I totally dig the MoPar forums. I spent some time reading-over previous threads regarding heater problems. Those posts along with help from from 440RoadRunner and Side_show got me headed in the right direction.

I started checking my vacuum lines- what I could find. Started with the canister on the passenger fender. Kind of a plastic bottle with an incoming vacuum line from the intake manifold and an exit line going through the firewall. Turns-out, the line from the intake manifold had a bad pinch where it left the fitting. when I tried to remove the line, it tore at the pinch. I cut the rotted portion away. The rubber line was much healthier after the pinch, so I slid that back onto the fitting. Fired "Casper" up, the cold light went out and the HEAT started to flow!

Just stupid wicked-cool. Thanks to everyone who tried to lend a hand.
Regards, Capt. Boompy's Deep WARM Water Charter Service

 

Greetings friends. Been a while since I stopped in here.

Easter Sunday I had the front U-joint explode. Too many hole shots on 46 year old parts. Lucky for me the yokes never touched, the shaft didn't drop. In fact, I was able to creep the car 6 miles home!!!

Seems I have a leak from my heater control valve. Noticed a small puddle of antifreeze dripping from the right front inner fender. Closer inspection revealed a wet stream from the vacuum operated valve body. I was able to slighty tighten the four screws on the underside of the canister, and a little on the clamp screws on all four hoses.
I think I see a crack on the base near the flange where the one screw seats.

Truth be told: I ran the 383 kinda hard the other night and now I have this leak- swell.

So I'm wondering if I could use some kind of liquid radiater leak repair product to help seal this little leak? Has anyone used this type of product and had good results?
Thanks for any advice. Mopar or no car.

Regards, Capt. Boompy

 

I've used this in automotive and industrial applications with very good results. http://barsleaks.com/product/liquid-...tem-stop-leak/

 

Thank you thank you!
This product works great. Shake it up, pour it in, 10 minute trip home from Walmart with the heater ON, no more leak. $aved my wallet from OEM sticker shock, thats if I could even find a replacement heater control valve for a 383 car with air. Very pleased.
Nicely played, Sir.

Thanks again Mopar Forums.

Regards, Capt. Chrysler

 

I have a leak in heater core my old 68 Imperial too. Right now, if I want hot air in the car, all I need to do is lower the windows! But eventually, heater is a good thing to have. My concern with these products is that they may compromise the cooling system in other ways. Like gum up the internal head and block passages, not to mention the radiator itself. ... It may be short term vs. long term.

 

The old stuff that was like snot out of the bottle did tend to plug things up, but the new products only work on leaks, in fact the OEMs have been putting similar products it in new cars at the factory to reduce warranty claims for years.

 

Well crap!
Been inspecting my charging circuit lately so I've spent some time around "The Ghost".
This morning I notice this little puddle under the wheel well. Stinking vacuum operated heater control valve is leaking again. The leak is on the back side of the canister. I only ran the heater that one time after I poured the product in.
Maybe I can try running the heater a bunch and hope that leak product can still do the magic.

Stirred not shaken, Capt. Boompy

 

Get it up to temp and give it a run... 30 Min Should do the trick, if its going to seal.... If not... Time or a better valve....

Good to see you Captain....

 

Good to be seen RacerHog. Happy Memorial Day.
So I enjoyed a nice 1/2 hour space cruise in The Ghost last evening- with the heater ON. We had spent the afternoon with family, riding in their newer car. My old Chrysler rides SO much smoother than that new car!
Got back to the boathouse and tied-off to the dock, no leak from the heater control valve. Checked it this morning, quarter-sized puddle on the floor.
So Racer, here's a good question: if you needed a new vacuum operated heater control valve for a 1969 car with air, where would you start looking?

Many thanks, Capt. Boompy's Antifreeze Dispersal Services

 

Is it the valve or the hoses that attach to it, stop leak does not work on hoses.

 

Get one from the Napa Auto Parts.... should work just fine. I agree with Iowan, Make sure thats what the problem is first.... If you have trouble finding one... P.M. Me...

 

Greetings Crew Members.
So I spent $134.50 at Hiltop Auto Parts and got me a 48 year old BRAND NEW vacuum operated heater control valve! Planning on installing the pretty little beauty in the morning. What a treat to find exactly what I needed for a reasonable price.
Tickled, Captain Chrysler

 

Good On you !!!!!! Hope it works good...