New Member Question on C-Body rebuild

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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 06:48 AM
  #1  
ToneMt's Avatar
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From: MT
New Member Question on C-Body rebuild

Hi Guys,

Im a Ford and MGB guy but have always loved Mopars.

Recently Ive come across a 68 Polara 4 door and need to know what areas should I be especially concerned. This has:
1. a fresh 318
2. Original paint that with areas of nicks and surface rust - no bubbling can be detected
3. Solid quarters
4. Trunk has a fair degree of surface rust with a 6x6 inch area of pin holes on the DS of the gas tank
5. Old bed liner material that was sprayed in trunk is present
6. Frame looks solid, areas of surface rust also noted
7. R passenger window regulator is not working
8. Headliner is torn
9. Carpets and seats are shot
10. Lots of play in the column shifter (hard to tell when in gear)
11. Neutral safety switch needs attention (only can start in N)
12. Dash pad needs replacing
13. Cowl vents looks solid but havent pured water in them yet
14. Floor boards look solid also
15. Front suspension/rear is very dated and prob will need a rebuild + new leafs...

So what other areas should I look at?

Also I know that parts for C-bodies are tough to come across - so Im a bit cautious here d/t part availability.

Ive done restoration work before but not on Mopars (see sig)

Here are some pics:





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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 07:31 AM
  #2  
Gorts 5th's Avatar
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Debary Florida
Smile

Welcome
Beautiful car!
you'll get plenty of help here.
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #3  
440roadrunner's Avatar
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Looks and sounds like a pretty straight and sound car. Look for rust in/ under rear quarters, rocker panels, around and under (in trunk) rear window, and in lower windshield area. Also run some water down the cowl (air intake) and be sure it drains freely out the weep holes up in the front fenders, and "not" LOL into the car interior. I don't remember if those still have the left/ ride under dash vents, if so you can look into them for dripping, rust, etc, showing cowl leakage.
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 08:49 AM
  #4  
ToneMt's Avatar
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From: MT
Yeah - Ive done a cowl repair below - dont want to do another - thanks guys.....

.any other issues Im missing here?

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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 12:34 PM
  #5  
Sjzdx's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
The problem parts I needed on mine seem to be all there and in good condition on your c body. Good luck with it.
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 01:54 PM
  #6  
jacilynn_s's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ToneMt
Hi Guys,

Im a Ford and MGB guy but have always loved Mopars.

Recently Ive come across a 68 Polara 4 door and need to know what areas should I be especially concerned. This has:
1. a fresh 318
2. Original paint that with areas of nicks and surface rust - no bubbling can be detected
3. Solid quarters
4. Trunk has a fair degree of surface rust with a 6x6 inch area of pin holes on the DS of the gas tank
5. Old bed liner material that was sprayed in trunk is present
6. Frame looks solid, areas of surface rust also noted
7. R passenger window regulator is not working
8. Headliner is torn
9. Carpets and seats are shot
10. Lots of play in the column shifter (hard to tell when in gear)
11. Neutral safety switch needs attention (only can start in N)
12. Dash pad needs replacing
13. Cowl vents looks solid but havent pured water in them yet
14. Floor boards look solid also
15. Front suspension/rear is very dated and prob will need a rebuild + new leafs...

So what other areas should I look at?

Also I know that parts for C-bodies are tough to come across - so Im a bit cautious here d/t part availability.
Hmm lets see someone sprayed rock guard into the trunk? Or is it grey and black pebbly looking stuff? The grey and black pebbly is an optional dealer sound deadner/ rust protection. Rockguard is rubber undercoating and hides rust like you wouldn't believe.

Dash pad is not available remove and there is a place that will recover it forget the name though.

Get a proper air cleaner for it. Original would be a small air cleaner with a round tube out to drivers side with a second air tube to the valve cover breather on it.

Original valve covers for these are actually cool. There is two tabs on each valve cover with 7/16 in holes in them. There is small plastice round clips that clip to the spark plug wire and are then placed into the valve cover slot.

The rad looks original with the stupid center fitting. Its best to have the top fitting moved over to the edge of the radiator for better cooling. A good shop will even remove the baffle in the top of rad that some have and recore the radiator.

The chrome of the car is unique to that car. If the interior is that bad it probably has also had a good mouse nest at one point. Remove the rear seat and clean it out. I would also remove the air box and heater core. Test and clean out the heatercore while your at it. Be careful some of the ductwork is delicate.

Your shifter linkage is out of adjustment and the bushings and the one rod shot. For rod I usually replace the rod itself and weld on the brackets as the end is usually worn to snot at the transmision. The plastic bushing is available new. Not hard to replace and fix. However this usually wears out if the engine or transmission mounts are bad. Check them.

pour water onto the windshield with a garden hose to check for leaks. Chances are it got replaced and someone had no clue how to install it. These are rubber windshields where you do NOT put any sealant into them. Sealant makes them leak like a sive. You have to clean the hell out of the rubber and install the windshield using windex as lubricant. It will self seal in the sun and never leak.

The rear regulator can be replaced easy enough from another 4 door car as they interchange. Chances are the arms are bent from the window being forced which stripped the regulator. Clean out all the channels on all windows as if one is bad the others are not far behind. The pivot point on the arm and the rollers get a dab of white litium grease, the regulator along the gear edge and teeth get grease while the center of it gets oiled. The rest such as the tracks themselves are left dry and clean.

Check the wiring as it looks like someone played with it. I'm not completely sure what that box is on the drivers fender. It is in the place where the cruise control would be but it's not one I recognize at all.

There is a ton of other things to check but that gives you a start.
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 02:56 PM
  #7  
ToneMt's Avatar
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From: MT
jacilynn_s....

Thanks for the response...


.....the trunk has the dealer grey and black pebbly stuff that has cracked in a few areas which I imagine can now hold interesting surprises...so I guess its time to wire wheel that stuff out....

.... the dash pad will need to go and get a new lease on life - I found that website BTW - thanks. The headliner I can order (not looking forward to that install)

Ill look for stock air filter assembly - have looked with no luck

The engine will be pulled with the front suspension....the suspens. parts will be sand blasted and powder coated while the engine will get its own paint and a closer look. Looks like the stock valve covers are readily available - just needs some time in the blasting booth....

The chrome of the car is unique to that car and I might have issues finding the correct parts.

I didtn check the engine or tranny mounts - so thanks for that heads up on that and the shifter issue...


That "box" in the engine is a PO attempt at cruise control - that will go (Im not big fan)

Thanks again for the suggestions ... my final goal is a nice, functional, no or minimal blemish, safe driver. Ill keep you guys posted....

tone
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 02:59 PM
  #8  
jacilynn_s's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ToneMt
jacilynn_s....

Thanks for the response...


.....the trunk has the dealer grey and black pebbly stuff that has cracked in a few areas which I imagine can now hold interesting surprises...so I guess its time to wire wheel that stuff out....



tone
That dealer stuff has tar in it. There should be no rust behind it actually.
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 03:04 PM
  #9  
78D200's Avatar
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Welcome!
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 06:34 AM
  #10  
jcloving's Avatar
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From: NC
That is a cool car. It looks like the basics are there bones are good.

Get it and restore it as you like.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 10:26 PM
  #11  
Silverick's Avatar
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From: San Francisco, CA
The car actually looks pretty straight. I have a '68 C body and have had a great time with it!!
Welcome to the forum!!
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Old May 2, 2013 | 06:55 PM
  #12  
bboogieart's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
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Very nice looking ride. I LOVE the tail lights on these beasts.
I would follow 440s advice about the cowl. Poor some water on there to make sure it drains properly.
My 68 Chrysler leaks into the interior just as he describes. .
Parts for these cars are out there, you just need to know where to look.
Wild Cat Mopar is one good place for hard to find stuff. they are in the state of Washington.
A lot of the mechanicals can still be had over the counter. I just bought everything for my brake job on the 68 New Port. Rock auto is another place to look. Just start perusing the net, looking for what ever you may need. Also look into the classifieds on any site you can find that has anything to do with mopars or c-bodies specifically.
I have a 68 Polara 4 dr. The body is shot but you don't seem to need body parts. I may be able to help with mechanical parts though.

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Old May 2, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #13  
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"Ill look for stock air filter assembly - have looked with no luck"
such as this for instance. I have a cleaner one laying around here somewhere, or this will clean up nice with a little media blast and some paint. Of course this won't fit that after market intake and carb set-up.


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Last edited by bboogieart; May 2, 2013 at 07:31 PM.
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