niceguy

Hey everyone, new to the forum. I have a few cars, fords, chevys, VWs, oldsmobiles and an Essex, but now I'm thinking I want a Plymouth but I dont know anything about their value or really what to look for. A guy by me is selling his 1973 Cuda "race car". I have NOT seen the car in person yet, just some pictures(below). Runs and drives.
Can anyone tell me what you guys think? How much this is worth ect? He said it also comes with new quarters. Thanks everyone!

340 cubic inch V8(recently rebuilt, mild cam)
727 automatic Trans with manual valve body
8 3/4 posi rear
Roll cage with racing seat
Hooker headers (open)
Fiberglass hood and deck lid
Winters shifter

jacilynn_s

Somebody did a lot of work to customize it that way.

If he did the customization ask him if he has any of the original parts for the car.

A better question to ask is what do you plan to do with the car if you bought it? Restore it back to original? Clean it up?

What is he asking for it?

440roadrunner

I don't really know about value, but in many places, not having the dash/ vin plate is a big huge problem if you ever decided to license, transfer or sell the car, or worse, got caught up in some sort of ownership dispute--which happens, sometimes.

TVLynn

Great beginning for a race car. If you are planning to restore it to it's former Glory
IT can be done with great expense. You would be money a head to look for something else Unless you want a project In today's market you could probably get a nice example for $30-35K

niceguy

Hey guys thanks for the responses, I was thinking about getting it, cleaning it up, paint ect, and streeting it. Hes asking 3500 for it, and I would be getting it for myself but if I decide down the road to sell it I don't want to lose my lunch on it, which is why I'm unsure about what its worth because of its heavy customization.

PURPLE HORONET

First thing you need to do is found out about the vin numbers and does it have a clear title..

niceguy

Ok I just spoke with the guy, and he said that the VIN is on a plate on the inside fender. And it also had a clear title.

PURPLE HORONET

Thats a big flag and nothing but problems in NC.. That plate is screwed on and changed easy.. If that car came to NC the DMV would make you take the car apart enough to find the rest of the hidden numbers. That screwed on plate will not fly..

What happened to the orginal dash an vin plate ?? When was the last time the car was registered..

The car is cool and I dig some prostreet projects, But the down side is the car is not tubbed and thats the best part of a prostreet unit. You got to ask yourself why have all that cage work and sissy tires on the back.

Remember their are no buddies and friends when buying and selling.

440roadrunner

That seems like a heck of a good buy

I would find the additional VIN numbers (don't know where and how many on that car) but usually places like the rad support, and the trunk seal lip

If they match the title/ vin tag, I'd say you are OK.

niceguy

Yeah I live in NJ and basically...as long as you have a clear title and bring a picture of the front of the car and a side shot, you're good to go(for a historic registration). No inspection and no looking for VINS, it takes about 15 minutes and you have historic plates in hand.

How much do you think I should pay, as it sits?
What do you think a car like this cleaned up would bring? paint, wheels/tires, valid registration/title, running like a top ect... thanks for all the responses so far! you guys are awesome

Moparod

Lucky dog, sure isn't that way in Tennessee.. Had to almost make a deal with the devil to get a title for my '36 Dodge. Yep, car was 68 years old when I bought it with a bill of sale and I STILL had to get a registered letter from the previous owner stating he did not have a title when he sold it to me, then I had to go to the state dmv he lived in which was North Carolina to get a letter from them stating whether the car had ever been registered in the state. Plus a pencil rubbing of the serial number- no VIN's back then. I'll never do a bill of sale again...

PURPLE HORONET

Need better pics like cage work,, Looks to me the front cage is connected to the fire wall and not threw to the inside cage. You can loose your rear tring to fix it up to drive on the street if not carefull. The dash being hacked is a big turn off to a buyer. Plus the fact no talet was used to make the one thats in their. They just took a sheet and put one bend in it.

Rear end, what gear, posi unit or spool. Does it have exhaust, headers, Theirs no money from what I see that can be made on the car. By the time you paint it, wheels and tires, interior, electrical and coutless hours of old car issues your pissin in the wind.

The fact the cage is in it, its not tubbed, hacked dash, lift off hood and trunk lid. You just lost 80 percent of buyers that like a 73 cuda. But if you enjoy working on stuff and know how. It would make a cool project.

niceguy

Hey guys thank for the responses, its has open Hooker Headers and a 8 3/4 posi rear. Not sure of the gears. The cage goes through the firewall and is connected to the inside cage. And I thought the dash looked pretty clean and well put together for a "racecar". Like someone said before, a clean example of a 73 cuda can bring 30-35k, I have to imagine that this car is worth a little bit of money. So do you guys thing 3500 is a fair buy for this car?

Moparod

For a race car I'd say it's a good price, even if you decided to part it out you could probably make money. As to putting it back on the road, well I did exactly the same thing with a '70 Cuda bracket car back in '89, and would not recommend it. I figured all I'd need to do to have a killer ready-made pro streeter would be to hang some exhaust, replace the 31x15x15 slicks with dot tires and put in a lower stall- it had a 5000 stall in it for racing with 5.38 gears in a Strange spool all set up in a Dana 60. Had an NHRA legal 6 point cage too. First, the headers were race only headers, no flanges to accept pipes so I had to buy a new set of headers then the exhaust. The 12:1 340 promptly blew one of the mufflers up. Round as a biscuit. Oh yeah, had to buy my gas at a local puddlejumper airport to get 100 octane avgas, nearly 3 times what pump gas was back then. Second, 31x15x15 dot tires were $450 each in 1990, plus mounting. The 3500 stall I put in to replace the 5000 wasn't enough for the motor, I had to put it in neutral every time I stopped to keep it from creeping through intersections. It was an 11 second 340, idled at 1200, any less and the carb would load up and it would die. The wiring had been cut out so I had to rewire it for headlights, turn signals, etc. It didn't take long to get totally tired of climbing over the sidebar to get in and out so I took a sawzall to the cage to get both sidebars out of the way. It only had one fiberglass racing seat so I had to put another seat in it so I could carry a passenger, then carpet. I was lucky it still had the dash and nearly mint door panels in it. I swapped the 8 gallon fuel cell out for a stock tank because it had no range at all, I'd have to fill up twice a night on cruise nights. Point being I sunk a ton into it trying to make it back into a street car, got tired of it pretty quick and the only reason I got a pretty good deal on a '69 Road Runner trade is that the 'Cuda was a rare factory FM3 Moulin Rouge car.

niceguy

Moparod thats a crazy story...sounds like you spend a lot of time and money trying to make that car street legal. Here in NJ, once you have historic plates, you can basically do whatever you want. For example, I just got done converting a 57' chevy drag car from the 80s into a street car. Its got a 454, I run it open headers, 4.11 gears with skinnys all around, no front and back bumpers, head to rewire the whole car. Trying to keep the old race nostalgia in it. So with the cuda, I would leave it open headers, paint it, put some wheels/tires on it, make sure the brake lights work and the headlight work, maybe lower it. Make it a semi restomod.
I just have no idea what someone would pay for the car when(if) i got tired of it, so I don't want to jump the gun and end up dumping money into it. I;m just trying to get a feel of what this would be valued at

PURPLE HORONET

That car will never be in the class of the 35K range without sticking 50K in it. Yah by the pics the car is worth 3500.. Its hard to tell you what it would be worth without seeing the end result. In my eyes its a cut up drag car, I will say it again the biggest down fall its not TUBBEB. The best part about a pro-street car is big tires on the rear.

You will be lucky to get half your money back when your done with this project. Open headers suck on the street, it fumes you out burns everything under the car.

PURPLE HORONET

Here are some good examples what its worth.

72 cuda 3000.00
http://www.racingjunk.com/Door-Cars/...BARRACUDA.html

70 cuda 5000.00
http://www.racingjunk.com/Door-Cars/...g-Project.html

73 cuda 10,900
http://www.racingjunk.com/Door-Cars/...Barracuda.html

niceguy

Hey everyone, just wanted to tell you guys that I closed the deal today. After I saw it, I just had to have it. The car is actually in great shape, the cage was professionally done by a race shop in his town, its actually a 12 point cage. Its got a mild cam, all receipts for a full rebuild, and same with trans. 3200 high stall. And paid less than he was asking.

And purple thanks for the links, but after I make the car street legal, it will bring more value to it, and I can tub it out no problem if I decide to.

Thanks for all the information guys! You guys were a big help in the decision!

niceguy

And wow I looked at that first car you posted for 3000, it has no motor/trans/brakes/or title. I got this car with all of those things in perfect running order, for less than that i feel good