Well as for now I'm set up to buy what looks to be a 1973 Original Roadrunner, but when I called and asked about it he said he only knew of one VIN which is on the dash, he hasn't checked for any others. I've broken down the VIN which is RM21P3A302570,

Body Type: E = Unknown
Price Class: M = Medium
Body Type: 21 = 2 Door Coupe
Engine: P = 400 260HP(net) 1-4BBL 8 CYL
Year: 3 = 1973
Sequence Number: 302570 = 202570th Vehical Built

I'll post some pics and you can tell me what you think. How else would I be able to tell if it's original or not? It's in rough shape right now but in a month or so it'll look like new.

http://img153.imageshack.us/i/442892...143297703.jpg/
http://img294.imageshack.us/i/44288973215414205450.jpg/
http://img294.imageshack.us/i/442905...147963702.jpg/
http://img541.imageshack.us/i/442892...143127802.jpg/
http://img63.imageshack.us/i/44289214015414297690.jpg/

The interior is shot, but I have deals on a lot of parts, Paint/Carpet/Seats will cost me about $6-750, needs all around brakes which I'm doing myself for $250, Temp slip covers are being made for the seats for a small fix. But I'm buying this car for $3,000.

 

The Satellite also has a 727 Torqueflite, but this is really racking my brain, anyone can bolt on a Roadrunner hood to a satellite, but the only thing is KNOWING if it's an original, any specific details I should look for? I'm going to see the car on Saturday.

 

This may help ya a bit also.
This is only good for 69-74

 

What do you think it looks like from the side/back/front? would it be worth the 3K?

 

also if its the rm in the vin its a runner, if it was a Satty it would be an H code. I'll look at the pics

 

Yea, but it's not that hard to change a Dashboard/Trunk/Fender/ Switch an engine

 

My advice would be, look the car over carefully. Make sure that the vin plate hasn't been changed. Check the fender tag and decode that vs the actual car.
Then check all the usual stuff, floor pans, trunk pan, you know where I am going with that.

 

Well everything seems good, checking it out tomorrow, if it's only the brakes/interior, still worth the 3K?, if it's a Satellite in that cond would it be worth a little less?

 

If the entire body is solid (no rot, maybe just a little surface rust) and it runs well, then see if he'll take a little less.

It's hard to tell from those pictures though.

 

He's already stretching it by holding onto it for me, I got him down to $2900 no less though, but still I want an original, not a clone. If he lied about it I'll just go back to my other offer of $2500 for a 1970 Buick LeSabre.

 

The only rot he said there was is a small (quarter) size hole on the 1/4 panel which I can fix, but from the side pic it looks like it was ALL bondo, magnet test time

 

A lot of sellers will tell lies just to get the price they want. Just tell him this is what you have, there are plenty of other vehicles out there to choose from.

Look over it carefully though and try to decode what you can while you are there or write everything down and take pictures of it, then decode it later.

 

Well, where else could I look for a VIN of some sort to reassure me it's legit and not a clone? besides the Fender tag and Dash, also; Would the title have it?

 

So just to recap... you'd buy a Buick to save 400 bucks...sweet jesus !
Meds..someone bring me my meds.

 

I definitely wouldn't like to buy a clone. The LeSabre is a fallback, this guy sounded real shady over the phone like he was hiding it. And I know that a legit Roadrunner even in that cond. Is worth more than what he is asking for it.