I'm trying to do a rear disc brake conversion on my 1979 Dodge Warlock II (W150 4x4). I believe it has the Chrysler 9.25" rear end but could be wrong. I can't find anyone that makes some sort of brackets or a kit to accomplish this job. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

Can you take a pic of the axle?

There are kits out there depending on which axle you have. I didn't think they put the 9.25 in the trucks til later, but I have been wrong before.

 

These guy can be a bit pricey but....

http://www.tsmmfg.com/Dodge_Truck.htm

Like I said before though, it all depends on what your rear axle actually is. There are other ways to get disc brakes where drums are now.

 

I don't know if it's the 9.25 or not, I have also heard it has a Dan 60 in it but that don't make sense only being a 1/2 ton. I can take pictures in a few weeks when I see her again. I have seen brackets that allow me to use old Chevy front rotors and calipers (Cadillac El Dorado rear calipers if I wanna keep the emergency brake) but I don't know how well this idea works and if it does work I don't know where to find these brackets anymore.

 

If it was a D60 then it would be an 8 lug, full floating axle, which someone would of had to swap in. I would think that you have either a 9.25 or a D44 rear. Although, swapping in a rear D60 and changing the front hubs to an 8 lug pattern would not be that hard/expensive.

There are kits out there where you can weld on a bracket for the caliper (can get those at a dozen or so places online). As for a caliper, yes the El Dorado caliper will work and has the build in e-brake which is nice if you plan on keeping the vehicle street legal.

 

I would love to put Dana 60's in it front and rear, but are the yokes the same size or would I have to fabricate a driveshaft? I would have to have everything 100% ready to put in the truck with no sudden surprises because the truck is also my only means of transportation so I would want to rebuild the differentials with ARB air lockers and install the ARB air locker stuff on the truck itself and than take a weekend or less and shove 'em in there.

 

o another question...whats my rear axle gear ratio? I need to get a new speedometer drive gear cause I'm installing a 6" lift and 35's

 

closest rumor I've heard so far on gear ratio is either a 4.56 or a 4.10...if these are true than I would think the 4.10 but than again I haven't even drove it yet

 

You will probably have 3.73, 3.92 or 4.10 (at the most). If you are going to be going to 35s, you will want 4.10 gears. They are good for all around. 4.56 is better but you are limited as to how fast you can go on the highway.

I will guarantee that you do not have 4.56 gears in there now unless someone already swapped them out.

The D60 yokes are the same size as the D44 - 1310. Even if they are not, you can get D60 yokes for the axles that are 1310.

If you do build a set of D60 for this truck, what size tire are you planning on running? A D70 is much stronger and can be found in many of the older Dodge 1 ton trucks. Plus they already have 35 spline shafts and have the almost the same clearance as a D60.

You can go with ARB's if you plan on driving the rig on the street but if it is going to be just for off-road and pulls, then get a full spool for the rear (great strength, cheap money, and will probably never break) and throw a Detroit locker in the front.

 

i will definitely use the ARBs cause im gonna build the drivetrain before i even think about touchin the motor (even though someone already has, puttin out 415 rwhp...that aint stock by no means for a 360c.i.)...whats so important about the 35 spline shafts?

 

how can i find out what gear ratio i currently have?

 

the best way would be to just pull the cover off the back diff. The gear ratio is stamped into the ring gear.

 

are the new 9.25's on the rams and such the same as the old school ones - i know they have discs out back

 

It will say something like "41 10" (4.10) and/or is will have the ratio on it.

The 35 spline shafts are larger, stronger and have more contact than a D60. Plus, you can pick up a D70 for the same price as a D60 off craigslist, just make sure that it is out of a Dodge truck (easy bolt in). You could also look into getting a rear axle out of a later model Dodge Ram 2500 diesel. Most of them were D60s and some even had D70s in the rear and some even came with disc brakes (very nice).

As far as going with the ARB lockers, there are deals going on right now where you can buy the lockers and get a free compresser. Why do you want to go with ARB lockers though?

 

i've been stuck before...i grew up in the woods on the dirt roads in the fields and grew up drinving dukes of hazard style...i dont like puttin it in 4wd and only having 2 wheels spinning. what about the 94+ cummins some of them have D80 rear and D70 front? to change the gear ratio all i need is the ring and pinion correct? and when i find out my current gear ratio where can i find a new speedometer drive gear to compensate for the 35's going on it?...dont feel like getting pulled over especially in virginia its a common wealth area for lack of a better term

 

You will need the right R+P and an install kit as far as parts go. You will need time and a cool head as far as doing it yourself goes. For tools, well there are some tools out there that are very nice to have and make the job a lot easier. If you have never changed a R+P before, I suggest having a local, reputable shop do it for you.

There are calculators online that you can use to figure out what ratio you need to install to compensate for a larger tire.... once you find out what you have for gearing now.

You can go with a 94+ Cummins axle set but you will need to cut off al the brackets, clean up the axles and weld on spring perches once you get the pinion angles right. I'd stay with just a Dodge SRW D60 front and rear axle from a 93 and older truck. The spring perches on those axles should line up with your truck.

 

heres what i found out...i currently have 3.77 gear ratio (stamped on ring gear), i found a complete 1992 dodge frame with a d70 rear and d60 front for $1000 gonna see about talking him down (than i would have a transfer case to work with to)...i decided i will probably go with 4.10s front and rear when i build the differentials and i will use detroit lockers (if they will work alrite with the truck still used as a daily driver)...i have never done an R+P change before but i have patience and i would want to do it my self to learn how to do it, theres few things i dont know how to do on a car may as well make the list even shorter, i know you have to be very careful and pay close attention to spacing (i can even do the body work and custom show quality paint jobs, been restoring show quality cars with my dad since i could walk just like he did with my granpa)

 

the easieast way to tell if its a 8.75 is to look at the centre section if it has no cover on the back and the drive shaft yoke along with the entire centre section bolt to the front of the housing it is 8.75 drop out. If it has an 8 sided octagon shaped cover bolted to the back and the axle tubes are stepped down from 4" at the closest point to the gears to 3" at the brake drum end of the tube it is 9.25. If it is the 9.75 aka Dana60, the cover on the back if you look at the centre section it will look like an arrowhead pointing to the passinger side of the vehicle, the axle tubes should be 4" over the entire length. I highly doubt that anyone would take the time to retrofit this diff into your pickup, it is way heavier than any of the other rearends they offered around that time and would actually reduce the hauling capacity, because the diff weighs more you have to subtract the difference from your vehicles gross axle weight rating giving you less legal payload even though the diff can handle more.


P.S. it should say 9.25 in the title not 9.35.

 

im not worried about "legal" payload its arkansas haha...i've seen chevys with semi axles going up and down the road...greatly appreciate the infor on the threee different axles though that should be helpful

 

You might as well leave the brakes that you have in there for now then and probably just focus on getting the parts needed to build your truck how you want it. It is easier and cheaper to go all the way the first time than it is one stage at a time. Trust me, I've been there and done that.... hence why I am just going straight into building a buggy.

I'll chime in tomorrow about that truck you found. It is a good fine but I would only use the rear axle as the front will be ball joints.... you are going to want king pins instead (much stronger).

 

there we go thats something else i was about to ask you about...i found another set of axles out of a 1978 dodge both are dana 60 both are 4.10 ratio he has it listed as "king pin open differential" (whats that?). I would still have to do a knuckle out conversion to have manual locking hubs. On the knuckle out conversion would it be better to go with a 19 spline (1980-1993) or a 30 spline (1990-1993)?

 

Go for the set out of the 78. They will be much easier to install as the spring perches are already the same width as what your are (nice bolt in), and the yokes on them should be 1310 which would match what you have now. You could do a 4" lift and run 35s on these axles as the 4.10 gears will be very nice.

Ball joints are just a ball in a socket that will wear out, especially with a large tire and little backspacing on the wheels (wheels sticking out). A king pin is a cone structure with a white plastic bushing. They are very strong and can handle 44"+ tall tires.

As far as doing a knuckle out conversion, don't. That front D60 will have 35 spline inner shafts and 30 spline outer shafts. You can buy a set of Warn manual locking hubs for it on e-bay or Pirate4x4.

The rear will probably have 30 spline (if the spindles are large enough, they can be bored out to handle 35 spline shafts). The stock shafts and u-joint are plenty strong though to handle 35s. When you are ready to go larger, there are plenty of aftermarket shafts and u-joints to choose from.

 

well i was looking on Warn's website at the application chart...they make hubs for 1957-74 and 1980-93 but the years 1975-79 they dont make anything at all, not for 1/2 ton 3/4 ton or 1 ton...nothin! thats why i thought i would have to do a knuckle out conversion

 

and i decided to go with those axles from the 78...im getting both front and rear for $1300...not bad cause i was lookin at those dana 60 king pins and they are going for $800-$1300 by themselves

 

I'll source it out but I think that C&%^y and Dodge outers are the same. Dana made the axle for all three big companies so a lot of the parts are interchangeable... some are not though.

A normal king pin D60 front axle (low pinion, passenger side drop) is going for about $400-$700 around here. The F$*d 78-79 D60 front axles (high pinion driver side drop) go for about $800-$1000.

 

$400-$700 aint bad...you should buy em all up and sell em in virginia or arkansas...you'd make a decent return

 

I'm all set. I've got enough on my plate with rebuilding axles and whatnot. I don't need to be buying and trying to sell them someplace else and then deal with strapping them to a pallet and shipping.

 

i found Detroit Lockers for those 78 D60s and they only make 2...1 for 4.10 and numerically lower and 1 for 4.56 and numerically higher, i guess there is not a difference between front and rear? shouldn't be since they are both D60 but i want to make sure at $610 each

 

Do not committee to buying anything for the axles unless you have the axles in hand... and yes there is a difference between the front and rear. The rear is 30 spline and the front is 35 spline.

 

well all that Detroit Locker makes for the Dodge D60 is the 35 spline and than the 2 differences in gear ratio...guess i'll have to go with a el cheapo locker out back...no i'm not buying anything yet...won't for a good 2-3 months probably...just gettin my shopping list ready