Ok here is my problem ive been working on this thing for a WHILE.

89 Dakota Shelby one of the orig 1500.

Now i am having a problem with it Cutting off I replaced both the injectors

Because one wasn't spraying Correctly. when it warms up it shuts off, then it

takes a while for it to start back up i also replaced while i was as it the Fuel pres reg. 100% cleaned the Throttle Body new gaskets etc.

Has anyone had this problem?

 

I have one and wouldn't have a clue as to what is causing it. Try searching for a Dakota Service Manual. It won't reference the V8 but it should contain the same computer and throttle body.

 

Is there any 100% way to check the comp. I mean the comp is Obviously

Telling the Injector to spray correctly and it's conts to spray when it cuts off

is there any way to check the Comp? don't wana just try to replace it it's allmost 1 grand lol.

 

Another thing if anyone could tell me the Exact Idle at start up then after it gets a little warmed up that would be awesome the Hynes Manuel dose not Specif

 

Okay need some help here, I replaced the fuel filter and it still will not crank up on its own; however, when I dump gas down the throttle body it runs seeming to have no problem, will crank up rest of the day. Once it seems to sit overnight and I try to crank it, it just turns over but will not start, I have literally cranked for 30 mins and it will sputter like the fuel pump is just starting to pressure up and send fuel onto the throttle body and it will slowly start to crank after that. I'm thinking of just replacing the fuel pump but wondering if there is some other electrical component that I am missing.

Thanks

 

My guess: You are bleeding fuel pressure on the "off" position. When it sits you dont have enough pressure to feed the beast. Extended cranking refills the system.

Do not just change the pump. A hanging injector will do this too. And a fuel leak.

You want to test FP with engine off, key on. Record number.
test fp cranking, record number.
If no start, prime. Start and record number running.
Turn off, let sit. wait the amount of time you usually do and read pressure key off, record number ( she should be low or non existent)
Then key "on" Record number. (she should still be low)
Crank and WATCH number. She will build and at the 30 seconds you said it takes to start she will be at the standard run psi. Hence the ignition.

Your manual will have a run, key on or standby fuel pressure standard.

Once you know its a pressure bleed down. You can diagnose cause. An injector is nothing more than a check valve with a patterned nozzle for spray. It doesn't "inject". The pressure makes it work. No pressure, no fuel. If you haven't found your needed pressures, PM me Monday and I'll get them for you.

 

No expert here but this may have something that could help:http://www.allpar.com/fix/index.html

Look at the Auto Shutdown Relay (if it has one) as it allows the fuel pump to start when keyed to run then turns it off. When keyed to start the Computer must receive a Ignition signal to turn the ASD on which turns the pump back on. This is my crude understanding of it. You can bypass the ASD so the pump runs and it may give another clue to solve the puzzle. Good Luck.

 

Whatever happened to this? What color is your Shelby?

 

I found out if the ASD relay is not grounded good it will sputter and die.

 

Depending on where the ECM is located, it could be geting too warm causing it to cut out and not start till it cools off. This is a common problem in the full size jeeps, could be the case with this.

 

Xiil................replace the pick up under the cap and rotor...it's like a $16 part......when I bought my old Shelby #977 ...it would run for about 5 to 10 min. then shut off and won't start for about a half hour