318 build help & advice from you
#1
318 build help & advice from you
Hi everyone new member here, and hoping that I can gain some input on my 318 build.
I plan on using it in my hot rod (1936 Chevy truck with MoPar drive train!) on the street and occasional nostalgic drag events.
I have collected a 1987 318 with 302 heads.
Edelbrock tunnel ram with two edelbrock 650 carbs.
MSD billet distributor.
Early 1980's 727 with a reverse valve body and a 3500 stahl converter.
8 3/4 with a 4.30 ring & pinion.
What advice do you have as to valve size? cam size? pistons&rods? Any other tricks or help?
Attached is a picture of my build thus far.
Thanks guys!
I plan on using it in my hot rod (1936 Chevy truck with MoPar drive train!) on the street and occasional nostalgic drag events.
I have collected a 1987 318 with 302 heads.
Edelbrock tunnel ram with two edelbrock 650 carbs.
MSD billet distributor.
Early 1980's 727 with a reverse valve body and a 3500 stahl converter.
8 3/4 with a 4.30 ring & pinion.
What advice do you have as to valve size? cam size? pistons&rods? Any other tricks or help?
Attached is a picture of my build thus far.
Thanks guys!
#2
Welcome, and holy cow that's a big first question. Let me be the first to give it a shot. Don't be surprised if many respond with dump the 318 get a 360 or dump the tunnel ram. What you will be doing is building a high RPM horespower only engine for those carbs and that gear. If that is your goal the weak link is the puny connecting rods, a steel crank in place of the cast crank would be good insurance and race style oil modifications for sure.
If you want some resonable driveability with the stock bottom end with the tunnel ram (cool) smaller carbs will be needed for sure. Keep the questions coming, and nice parts getter. Did you measure the box to see if your next Hemi will fit in there?
If you want some resonable driveability with the stock bottom end with the tunnel ram (cool) smaller carbs will be needed for sure. Keep the questions coming, and nice parts getter. Did you measure the box to see if your next Hemi will fit in there?
The following users liked this post:
chryco36 (01-20-2013)
#3
Great Truck!!!
Sounds like a cool project.
Since you need pistons and rods and have a decent block I would start by building towards the end product. You need machining to fit your new pieces ( pistons) so consider a light weight stroker kit from SCAT (9000 series) or another company. You'll save money on the kit vs buying individual pieces. That will get you to 390 cubes all contained in the 318 block. Total sleeper.
Option 1
302 heads are nice. Clean them up and have your machinist use an 11/32 guide and fit a light weight and inexpensive chevy 1.94 / 1.50 valve + .050 height. That will let you use a variety of bee hive springs for whatever style cam you select.
Option 2
Or sell the 302s. They need machine work for valves,springs and porting so you can buy EQ 318 heads at Comp Products for 600 bucks bare. Lap in magnum OE 8mm valves. These will net you 225 cfm and equal or pass the ported 302s in flow. Drop the quide before you assembly. With these heads you can use Chevy rockers to keep prices down too.
*Dont buy the engine kit until you commit to a head. Different cc will require you to pick a piston to fit your CR needs.
All your other pieces sound nice!
Sounds like a cool project.
Since you need pistons and rods and have a decent block I would start by building towards the end product. You need machining to fit your new pieces ( pistons) so consider a light weight stroker kit from SCAT (9000 series) or another company. You'll save money on the kit vs buying individual pieces. That will get you to 390 cubes all contained in the 318 block. Total sleeper.
Option 1
302 heads are nice. Clean them up and have your machinist use an 11/32 guide and fit a light weight and inexpensive chevy 1.94 / 1.50 valve + .050 height. That will let you use a variety of bee hive springs for whatever style cam you select.
Option 2
Or sell the 302s. They need machine work for valves,springs and porting so you can buy EQ 318 heads at Comp Products for 600 bucks bare. Lap in magnum OE 8mm valves. These will net you 225 cfm and equal or pass the ported 302s in flow. Drop the quide before you assembly. With these heads you can use Chevy rockers to keep prices down too.
*Dont buy the engine kit until you commit to a head. Different cc will require you to pick a piston to fit your CR needs.
All your other pieces sound nice!
The following users liked this post:
chryco36 (01-20-2013)
#5
I agree with PK in general. You are going to need an expensive build, "big" heads, expensive head work, pistons, etc, to support that tunnel ram, and one hell of a cam, or else find some small carbs. VERY small. I realize in a rod like this that the appeal of a tunnel ram has
360's ARE cheap, generally have better heads and are plentiful. The only real problem with a 360/ any other SB is the balance problem, IE you either need a weighted torque converter, BUT you can also buy an aftermarket (B*M) flex plate which is weighted instead of the converter.
So with a 360 and a good cam, you could bore it and put some high compression pistons in and actually "get by" with the heads as is. Would not be optimum, but a lot cheaper. With vacuum secondary carbs and maybe tighten up the secondary spring, you could "get by" with those carbs.
You still need a high RPM cam and high-stall converter/ low gears to make that tunnel ram work. Offset somewhat by what is likely to be a lightweight car. Wish I had the money to do something like this. My idea of fun would be the "same idea" in about a 51-60 Dodge pu
360's ARE cheap, generally have better heads and are plentiful. The only real problem with a 360/ any other SB is the balance problem, IE you either need a weighted torque converter, BUT you can also buy an aftermarket (B*M) flex plate which is weighted instead of the converter.
So with a 360 and a good cam, you could bore it and put some high compression pistons in and actually "get by" with the heads as is. Would not be optimum, but a lot cheaper. With vacuum secondary carbs and maybe tighten up the secondary spring, you could "get by" with those carbs.
You still need a high RPM cam and high-stall converter/ low gears to make that tunnel ram work. Offset somewhat by what is likely to be a lightweight car. Wish I had the money to do something like this. My idea of fun would be the "same idea" in about a 51-60 Dodge pu
#6
CES318F4HKR-30
http://www.campbellenterprises.com/3...roker-kits.php
Ive also used Flatlander Racing and they were excellent. They didnt have a kit to link to but they will beat prices and mix match parts if you need. Dont hesiate to shop. These kits arent moving like they use to. Summit Racing has these kits too. This is a kit for you to budget for. Piston size and shape will be finalized once your machinist tell you your min over bore, amount of deck removed to straighten and any material removed from the 302s..
Don't under estimate the importance of the light weight valve train items. She will be a rpm build. I believe 5.7 hemi springs and their aftermarket replacements will fit the installed height you get with the chevy valve.
http://www.campbellenterprises.com/3...roker-kits.php
Ive also used Flatlander Racing and they were excellent. They didnt have a kit to link to but they will beat prices and mix match parts if you need. Dont hesiate to shop. These kits arent moving like they use to. Summit Racing has these kits too. This is a kit for you to budget for. Piston size and shape will be finalized once your machinist tell you your min over bore, amount of deck removed to straighten and any material removed from the 302s..
Don't under estimate the importance of the light weight valve train items. She will be a rpm build. I believe 5.7 hemi springs and their aftermarket replacements will fit the installed height you get with the chevy valve.
#8
Ok, here it goes. We run a 318 standard bore and stroke in a F-body all iron, no turbo or nitro ****. This season we ran 12.15 in the quartemile. Forged crank, forged rods, forged pistons, solid roller camshaft and steel roller rockers. Now to the best part, we have found out that cylinder nr 4 and 6 are oval with compression loss as a result! We are planning to fix that and aiming for high 11's in next season.
Our gool is to be the fastes 318 all iron, no turbo or nitro ****, F-body in the world.
Our gool is to be the fastes 318 all iron, no turbo or nitro ****, F-body in the world.
Last edited by andedh; 10-20-2013 at 03:40 PM.
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