I am interested on what some of you performance driven Moparites have under your hoods. I started my build-up with max performance in mind without sacraficing streetability. I achieved my goal and have a very streetable, full bodied, full interior '69 roadrunner that is driven almost every weekend and sometimes more and has laid down some mid 11's in the 1/4 mile and 7.50's in the 1/8 mile on the motor shifting at 5800 rpm's. I won't mention the e.t.'s on the 175 shot of NOS.
I have a .030 over 440 with a steel crank. The pistons are lightweight Wiesco's with stock rods. Heads are 915 closed chamber from a '67 GTX 440 with 2.08 intakes and exhaust are 1.74's. This combination give's me a compression ratio of 10.15 to 1 and I use only pump gas. The cam is a Mopar Purple Shaft single pattern with 284 duration (241 @ .050) and 484 lift with Mopar lifters and heavy duty rockers. I have a high volume oil pump with a Milodon 7qt oil pan. The intake is a Edelbrock Performer RPM and carb is 850cfm double pump Holley. I run an electric Mallory high volume fuel pump, ignition is Mopar electronic conversion (orange box) with Accel super stock coil. My exhaust is headers by Headman with 3 inch pipes and a crossover flowing through Dynomax turbo mufflers.
Let me know what you guys have because I'm always looking to learn something new and maybe even pick up a few more horses.

 

i have a mild 440
edelbrock cam
750 edelbrock carb. (will soon be a 800)
headmen headers
2.5 inch exhaust
915 heads 2.02 intakes with 1.88 exhaust
accel coil
mopar orange box ignition
10.2 compression
steel crank
stock manifold

 

The GTX sounds strong! Have you made any passes on the strip?

 

yes, and they have all been disasters
first it was distributor
then a kinked fuel line
got those things straightened out
will run it again next year

 

I just finished my 511 and got it in the Cuda, it has;

4.25" KB billet crank, ally main caps, girdle, R&R 7.135" ally rods, BME pistons & tapered tool steel pins, 11-1 comp, Childs & Alberts gapless rings.

Staightline solid roller .731/.707, offset Comp Cams lifters, bushed lifter bores, Smith Bros. pushrods, Ferrea Competition Plus valves, Isky Gold Stripe springs, T&D 1.7 rockers.

Indy 440-1 heads CNC ported and polished, 2.25/1.88 valves. Indy single plane and 1050 Dominator. TTI step tube headers.

MSD 7 Digital ignition, MSD billet distributor and MSD plug wires.



The Mallory distributor in the piture is just there to plug the hole, it's been replaced with the MSD.

 

how often do you have to adjust the valves with that solid roller cam?

 

It hasn't been fired up yet and this is the first time I've used a solid, so I'm not sure but it will be a on going thing. But it's not going to see alot of miles, just enough to keep the Chevys in line.

BTW, it took me 4 years of scrimpin and savin to get it and the tranny/rearend together. I didn't even have a beer or go out in that time, but it's going to be worth it.

 

toad I am so green with envy! You haven't fired her up yet? what are you waiting for,the best part of building a motor is when you first start it and hear that beautiful music! my 440 bored and stroked to 499 pales in comparison.

 

John, I still have a ton to do before it's fired. Right from the start I've been determined to have everything done and road ready when I turn the key. Before that I have to plumb in the cooling and fuel systems then the oil cooler and remote filter and external pickup, then have the the electrical done. It'll have 3 fans, electic water and fuel pump plus the trans bake and line lock, so it'll have to go to a shop for that. I just don't get electricity.

The good news is I have all the parts for everything except the driveshaft. As soon as I finish putting the rearend in I can get that measured up and ordered. It's a fabricated rear so it'll be a different length. I've also got a complete manual brake system to put in, with 12.19" Wilwoods on all corners. I'm soooo sick of spending money on it, now I just want to hear that music and have some fun with it.

Oh, and finish the roll cage.

 

haha
thats quite a list
if you dont mind me asking, how much did everything on the motor run you?

 

I don't mind, I acctually did it on a budget. I bought alot of parts off of ebay. Such as the Isky springs, they were new in the box and I got them for $75, the crank was used but unturned and in perfect shape no nitro, it was $900. So I got about $13,000 in it with assembly. All parts are new except the crank and headers ($250) but many are "second hand". The tranny is all bought retail and ran about $6000 with convertor, same with the rearend and it was $4000. I got no idea on how much in the rest of the stuff but I wasn't kidding when I said I didn't even have a beer for four years, every spare cent I could come up with has gone into this. I never even insured any of the bikes for two years, that was 2 grand for parts and the Cuda sat for all four years, another 3 grand. BTW my wife of 38 years is VERY understanding but does NOT understand.

 

toad,

Well done. That looks like a real beast. Make sure you post a few videos of the start up.

-C

 

lol to the wife part
so, around 25 grand in total between the motor, tranny, and rear

 

after 38 years, she should be used to the car shenanigans.

mine is getting there...hopefully

 

Man you have done a ton of work... On the wiring part.. K & R has a great kit for your add ons.... It comes complete with a switch panel and a relay board... Plus all the wiring to each add on.... And each wire is marked... I use it in both race cars for the total wiring. But would work as well for the add ons in your car and you don't need to "chop up" the oem wiring.... This way you save the expense of taking it to a shop. But you do have to buy the kit... App $500.00 more or less.....

Someone asked about adusting valves for a solid cam.... I do mine about every 25 runs.. But usually don't find anything wrong and that's a good thing.... I also keep a record of any adjustments I do make. If I see the same value getting loose I take note. This can be a hint to a lifter problem coming... I know this is a total race engine but we "baby" ours...

 

Ive seen good deals on some parts on racingjunk.com Nice site, just wish I had some money.

 

MREEVES, I'll take alook at that system, but me and electrical stuff just don't get along. Good idea on the valve adjustment records. I put the valley plate with the removable center on it so I can take alook at the lifters ect without taking the heads off. I'll also be babing mine, I went overboard on things with the idea that I can only afford to do this once. The tranny's built for 1000hp+ with hardened shafts, billet drums, sportsman 4 pinion planetaries ect. Rearend is also built for 1000hp+. I figure I'll run 750-800hp and have a very reliable setup. But **** happens.

 

with street driving, how long can they last till they come out of adjustment?

 

I don't know... I have never ran a solid lift cam on the street. But I would start by checking the lash every week and then stretch it out from there... Its not that hard of a job and doesn't take that much time and besides it gives us another reason to be in the garage...

 

haha
but if you have a wife, she'll kill ya

 

well you got me wondering so i did some looking around and made a few calls and most say with a fairly mild cam 3000 miles. Lots of cars back in the 60s came with solid cams, I know /sixs did and my dad had them and they were lucky to get a oil change never mind have the valves adjusted. Our 64 Valiant went way over 100,000 and I'd bet my last dollar dad never touched them, he wouldn't have know how and was way to cheap to pay somebody. I think the early 426 hemi had solids, it might of been just the 2 four barrel engines???? can't remember off hand.

Was bugging me so I looked it up, the Hemi had a solid cam up till 70 when they went to a hydraulic.

 

i also heard that if the hemi was raced, they were more **** to come out of adjustment

 

A very good friend asked me what I needed for my 70 Torino GT 351C 4v Shaker - Top loader 4 speed - 9" Detriot locker 4.30:1 - 10.7 all day everyday... A BIG motor for my Mopar I said, he got a wicked deal on this and we are both very happy...900+ HP very happy !!!

 

How true it was, my Father said when he raced them back in the day the 1/4 mile cars were every 4 or 5 passes but the oval guys were pulling their hair out at about 200 miles with the exhaust side becoming so loose it was high speed valve float in the closed position so ta say - Remember in the ol'days when a pit stop included the driver getting out of the car for a smoke and a coke while they spent what seemed like a couple of days by todays standards rebuilding the car lmao....... HEMI'S RULE!!!

 

toad490,
Where did you get your water pump? I have been unsucessful in finding one like that for an RB.

 

Mine is a 493 stroker in my 63 Sport Fury. I used a 440source kit as it is a .030 over 440 block and the 4.15 crank. It has dished pistons to get me 10.6 comp and good quench with the Indy EZ heads I am using. They are just opened up to max wedge ports. Cam is a custom grind by Dwayne Porter which is 264 & 270 @ .050 and .630 lift with my 1.6 Hughes rockers. 110 LSA and I have it in at 106. Indy dual plane intake and 850 DP carb. TTI 2" headers and complete 3" X-pipe exh. The car weighs just over 3700 with me in it and I use a Dynamic 9.5 converter with 4.30's and a 30 x 9 tire. It runs fine on 92 pump and it is a street car I drive everywhere including the 90 mile round trip to the track. Only have 2 passes on this eng as it was to lean when I went and breaking up at the top of each gear and I need to jet up some. Best et like that was 11.04 @ 121 thru the complete exh system just the way I drive it but I know it has easy 10's when I jet some more. Ron


I just ran 10.76 @ 124.46 last weekend ! Ron