Insulating Garage
#1
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Insulating Garage
i want to insulate my garage ceiling in the near future. i found this blow in insulation at lowes for pretty cheap. it is Greenfiber brand,and 20 cubic feet for $11. also, you get to use there blow in machine for free with purchase of blow in insulation. if i did my math right. i think my garage is around 202 cubic feet. it has 2x6 beams, it is 31 feet long, and 13 feet wide:
L- 31 ft
W- 13 ft
H- .5 ft
201.5 feet cubed
the question i have is, to hold the insulation up, i have industrial grade all purpose plastic sheeting. this is the kind i have:
i was planning on stapling it up. will that be strong enough to hold up the insulation?
assuming i did the math right, this should only cost a little over $100.
L- 31 ft
W- 13 ft
H- .5 ft
201.5 feet cubed
the question i have is, to hold the insulation up, i have industrial grade all purpose plastic sheeting. this is the kind i have:
i was planning on stapling it up. will that be strong enough to hold up the insulation?
assuming i did the math right, this should only cost a little over $100.
#2
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You are going to spending too much and it will take longer. Go down to your local Lowe's and get some R-19 that covers 87 sq.ft. for $27 (http://www.lowes.com/pd_15282-1722-EFK003_0_?productId=3014127&Ntt=r-19&Ntk=i_products&pl=1¤tURL=/pl__0__s?firstReferURL=http%3A%252Fwww.lowes.com%2 52FSearchCatalogDisplay%3FstoreId%3D10151%26langId %3D-1%26catalogId%3D10051%26N%3D0%26newSearch%3Dtrue%2 6Ntt%3Dr-19%26x%3D17%26y%3D8$newSearch=true$zipCode=03103$N tt=r-19$URL=StoreLocatorDisplayView$selectedLocalStoreB eanArray=). It is cheaper and will go up faster. Plus that blow in insulation will settle over time. You will only need 3 bags of the R-19 and spend ~$80 total. Throw up some straping to help hold it or get some 3/8" drywall and finish it off to make it brighter in there (that is what I will be doing over time).
When all is done (insulation, drywall, tape and mud, prime and paint) your looking at $150-$175.
When all is done (insulation, drywall, tape and mud, prime and paint) your looking at $150-$175.
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ya, i don't live far, not even 2 hours. you should now how bad it sucks trying to work in a garage that is 15 degrees. next winter im slapping a little wood stove in the back of my garage.
is that just roll in insulation?
drywall will probably be in time. i just wanted some thing real quick that would just hold in some heat.
what is strapping? i know you meen stuff to hold the insulation up, just what is it? i typed it in on the lowes search and it came up with pieces of wood.
is that just roll in insulation?
drywall will probably be in time. i just wanted some thing real quick that would just hold in some heat.
what is strapping? i know you meen stuff to hold the insulation up, just what is it? i typed it in on the lowes search and it came up with pieces of wood.
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i just went down in my basement and looked at the insulation. is strapping the little thin metal rods you just bend upward and they hold against the wood? those would work perfect.
my dad says not to use the plastic, because he says that moister will get held in. i was thinking that the plastic would have seams were each sheet met up that would be fine. what do ya think?
my dad says not to use the plastic, because he says that moister will get held in. i was thinking that the plastic would have seams were each sheet met up that would be fine. what do ya think?
#6
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I love working in 15* weather. Call me crazy, but I love it.
Yes, that is the roll in insulation. It is actually precut pieces that are something like 93" long.
Straping is just 1"x3"x8' pieces of wood. You can staple the insulation up, but the strapping will help keep it from falling. This is a pic of one room that I am redoing in my house.
Your dad is right about the plastic. Last thing you want is moisture build up.
Yes, that is the roll in insulation. It is actually precut pieces that are something like 93" long.
Straping is just 1"x3"x8' pieces of wood. You can staple the insulation up, but the strapping will help keep it from falling. This is a pic of one room that I am redoing in my house.
Your dad is right about the plastic. Last thing you want is moisture build up.
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I love working in 15* weather. Call me crazy, but I love it.
Yes, that is the roll in insulation. It is actually precut pieces that are something like 93" long.
Straping is just 1"x3"x8' pieces of wood. You can staple the insulation up, but the strapping will help keep it from falling. This is a pic of one room that I am redoing in my house.
Your dad is right about the plastic. Last thing you want is moisture build up.
Yes, that is the roll in insulation. It is actually precut pieces that are something like 93" long.
Straping is just 1"x3"x8' pieces of wood. You can staple the insulation up, but the strapping will help keep it from falling. This is a pic of one room that I am redoing in my house.
Your dad is right about the plastic. Last thing you want is moisture build up.
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I did mine with the faced insulation. They say it is fire-resistant. I wouldnt gamble on that if you are doing welding or grinding. I stapled them in an overlap at the studs for minimal air leakage. Covered by 1/2" drywall. Painted it Gloss white for better reflection of the light. I live in the country and used this eco-friendly stuff in the paint, its a bug and spider killer. Works GOOD! Non-toxic, bugs absorb it through their legs and die! I'm an electrician and will help for anyone that needs it. A sub-panel in the garage rules! If using fluorescent lighting, use "cool white" or better yet a HO or VHO fixture. Better color rendition and better cold weather performance. I also wanted a heater. Found a small furnace from a guy that hauls old mobile homes out of trailer parks [any park owner can turn you on to these guys]. My cost, $50.00. Its small and blows out the bottom and the heat rises. I added a ceiling fan, and life is GOOD!
Last edited by scotts74birds; 02-20-2010 at 08:42 PM.
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3 mil poly is way too thin to hold up blown in insulation. You might get away with it if you use reqular bat style insulation that are friction fit, but even that will sag after a short time. You must have the drywall up before using blow in insulation. I ran a insulation/drywall company with 50+ employees for several years.
Last edited by toad490; 02-21-2010 at 10:39 AM.
#12
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"HEAT GOOD" ya me and my dad put a ZERO tolerence heater out of a RV in the loft of the garage and it shoots hot air down and we have it split 3 ways across the garage it gets so hot in there were taking of jackets
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Check your prices, compare the cost of friction fit insulation/paperback over blown in, blown in is generally cheaper. Then look at the cost of the strapping that has been suggested to hold it in and I think you'll find that putting up drywall and then using blown in will not cost you that much much more, if any, and if you plan on drywall in the future it will be much cheaper in the long run. Depending on how your trusses are laid out, 14 sheets of 4x8 drywall will do you, 448 sq. ft.
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