383 swap
383 swap
hello there im new at mopar forums i need help with my 73 duster slant six , i want to swap the six for a 383 that i also have. what i need to do this posible? please help and thanx to everyone for let me in to this forums.
Hi Dusty,
What you want to do is possible. I have a 73 Duster that started life as a slant six auto and is now a 383 4-speed. Lots of things to do, but it can be done. Email me if you need specific procedures.
Marty
What you want to do is possible. I have a 73 Duster that started life as a slant six auto and is now a 383 4-speed. Lots of things to do, but it can be done. Email me if you need specific procedures.
Marty
Marty,
If you posted specifics on here on the forum, you would not only help the OP, but many others who read the thread.
Just throw in your 2 cents and share you wealth of info!
"If you posted specifics on here on the forum, you would not only help the OP, but many others who read the thread.
Just throw in your 2 cents and share you wealth of info! "
Lol....I wouldn't know where to begin.
Marty
Just throw in your 2 cents and share you wealth of info! "
Lol....I wouldn't know where to begin.
Marty
Welcome Dusty7373!
Here would be a good start for a post. Just start from the beginning and work your way to the end. If you are having a hard time with it, send me the info and I will get it posted for you.
https://moparforums.com/forums/f75/t...ck-swaps-7097/
Here would be a good start for a post. Just start from the beginning and work your way to the end. If you are having a hard time with it, send me the info and I will get it posted for you.
https://moparforums.com/forums/f75/t...ck-swaps-7097/
Okay...let me try this again. I will list the general steps I had to take. I am sure I will miss something, so ask me questions if you need to.
1) After stripping the engine bay it was prepped for paint. Torsion bars were upgraded at this time.
2) motor mount swapped out. Dart mentioned Schumacer...sp.. they have the kit. make sure you cut the hole for the dipstick before engine goes in. It's a pain afterwards...lol..I know.
3) Upgrade your brakes if need be.
4) My six came with power steering, so it was just a matter of getting the correct brackets for the 383.
5) Mine was an auto and is now a 4-speed. I had the floor pans replaced and a bodyshop cut out the tunnel and put in a 4-speed hump...minus the whole for shifter. The reason for that was I couldn't find an A833 with linkage mounting for the A-body. I was able to get one that had two mounts...one for B and one for E. I decided to use the E position for the shifter. It was the most comfortable. Then we cut the hole for the shifter. My welder buddy fabricated new mounts for the tranny. Also, mechanical linkage would not work here because of the big block. The bar would be on an angle. So my local tranny shop installed a hydraulic clutch. Works great.
6) Rear end needs to be upgraded as you probably have the 7.25 end. trying to find an 8.75 where I live is darn near impossible. Sorry to upset any purists, but my local tranny shop took a ford 9 inch, did all the axle measurements and drive shaft measurement, shippped it out to be done, then installed the whole thing for me.
I am sure i missed some stuff, but that's basically what i did. any questions, fire away.
Marty
1) After stripping the engine bay it was prepped for paint. Torsion bars were upgraded at this time.
2) motor mount swapped out. Dart mentioned Schumacer...sp.. they have the kit. make sure you cut the hole for the dipstick before engine goes in. It's a pain afterwards...lol..I know.
3) Upgrade your brakes if need be.
4) My six came with power steering, so it was just a matter of getting the correct brackets for the 383.
5) Mine was an auto and is now a 4-speed. I had the floor pans replaced and a bodyshop cut out the tunnel and put in a 4-speed hump...minus the whole for shifter. The reason for that was I couldn't find an A833 with linkage mounting for the A-body. I was able to get one that had two mounts...one for B and one for E. I decided to use the E position for the shifter. It was the most comfortable. Then we cut the hole for the shifter. My welder buddy fabricated new mounts for the tranny. Also, mechanical linkage would not work here because of the big block. The bar would be on an angle. So my local tranny shop installed a hydraulic clutch. Works great.
6) Rear end needs to be upgraded as you probably have the 7.25 end. trying to find an 8.75 where I live is darn near impossible. Sorry to upset any purists, but my local tranny shop took a ford 9 inch, did all the axle measurements and drive shaft measurement, shippped it out to be done, then installed the whole thing for me.
I am sure i missed some stuff, but that's basically what i did. any questions, fire away.
Marty
Ya see... I knew I forgot something important.
The K-member...It won't allow enough clearance for the oil pan. Now, what I did, was my welder buddy cut and boxed a section allowing for clearance. Now, that might not be legal in most jurisdictions, but I can assure you that it is as strong as anuthing out of the factory. So, unless you are willing to do that I guess you need a new K-member. Not sure where you would find that other than a donor car. I'm sure somebody knows.
Marty
The K-member...It won't allow enough clearance for the oil pan. Now, what I did, was my welder buddy cut and boxed a section allowing for clearance. Now, that might not be legal in most jurisdictions, but I can assure you that it is as strong as anuthing out of the factory. So, unless you are willing to do that I guess you need a new K-member. Not sure where you would find that other than a donor car. I'm sure somebody knows.
Marty
Ya see... I knew I forgot something important.
The K-member...It won't allow enough clearance for the oil pan. Now, what I did, was my welder buddy cut and boxed a section allowing for clearance. Now, that might not be legal in most jurisdictions, but I can assure you that it is as strong as anuthing out of the factory. So, unless you are willing to do that I guess you need a new K-member. Not sure where you would find that other than a donor car. I'm sure somebody knows.
Marty
The K-member...It won't allow enough clearance for the oil pan. Now, what I did, was my welder buddy cut and boxed a section allowing for clearance. Now, that might not be legal in most jurisdictions, but I can assure you that it is as strong as anuthing out of the factory. So, unless you are willing to do that I guess you need a new K-member. Not sure where you would find that other than a donor car. I'm sure somebody knows.
Marty
You don't have to notch the K-frame. I had 2" added to my oil pan on my 440 and it STILL fit in there. (Tight fit though).
When pulling the motor it made for a real pain because the pan would hit on the K-frame. I had my squared off 2 years.
Havent had a need to pull the motor yet BUT if it does come to that time, we'll see.
Ya, I don't know about each specific model. I had read somewhere that the correct K-member was needed. But there was no way my 383 was going to fit. Pehaps a different oil pan would have made a difference, I just went with stock. Tight fit for sure....am dreading having to change the plugs.
Marty
Marty
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