fuel pump
#1
fuel pump
hey I just bought an engine that i am using for parts for the 318 thts in my truck. the engine i bought has a holley 600 double pumper on it, which i will be using to replace the carter 2brl thts on the 318 thts in my truck, but i need another fuel pump to supply sufficient fuel to the 600 double. anyone have any suggestions on where to look for pump? If anyone has a part number or a name of a pump tht would fit a small block chrysler 318 and would work with a 600 double PLZ let me know!! thanks!
#2
your fist mistake is buying a holley caeb. you second mistake will be putting it on an engine. toss the mech fuel pump. get a carter electric pump. and put an over ride switch to fill the carb BEFORE you start it.
#4
Mopar Lover
I had a warmed up 318 with 600 Holley (great carb) that would stumble at WOT with stock pump. Might have been worn but changed to a Carter HP pump and it worked great.
#7
Admin
Stock pump should flow enough to feed that 600DP. Make sure your lines are clear, filters are clean and everything is setup correctly. Not sure what else you'll be adding for performance parts, just make sure they all work in the same RPM band.
I've always had issues getting Holley carbs setup but with some time I'm sure that you can get it.
I've always had issues getting Holley carbs setup but with some time I'm sure that you can get it.
#9
As others have said, any decent quality mechanical pump will supply that engine. But there's more to it than THAT
These girls are getting old. You might have "gunk in the tank," that is the pickup filter in the tank. Might have troubles in the fuel line, including ROTTED COLLAPSING rubber connector hoses at the tank and at the pump inlet.
Add to that a partially plugged filter, or maybe the pump was just plain defective.......it does happen once in awhile.
Having said all that, I moved away from mechanical pumps because of alcohlized gas, and fuel boiling/ vapor lock problems
PROBLEMS I MIGHT ADD that seem to adversely affect Carter / Edelbrock worse than Holley!!!!
#10
my idea of holleys not being a great carb, come from my trying to get a chrysler O.E.M. holley to needing worked on way to much. the O.E.M. chrysler holleys are a different from the over the counter holleys which are good enough carbs. but my OPINION is carters have better circuit design. just my OPINION. holleys are NOT bad. its just that carters are better over all. carters are easier to work on, easy to adjust jets. stay set better, if they drift its not as much trouble as holleys. JUST MY OPINION if holleys work for you, great.
#11
I’m running a 1411 eddy on my 440 right now but I can’t wait to get the correct Carter for my truck back on there. I will be getting one soon from the carb exchange and won’t miss this eddy a single bit.
I ran a holley on my 318 years back (believe it was a 600) and the car, like my current 440, always smelled like it was running 40 times too rich. Still not sure wassup with that, but I’m just going to go stock Carter and like it.
I ran a holley on my 318 years back (believe it was a 600) and the car, like my current 440, always smelled like it was running 40 times too rich. Still not sure wassup with that, but I’m just going to go stock Carter and like it.
#12
Holley mechanical fuel pump part #12-360-11
For SBM's (iirc).
ALL carbs can be made to run extremely well, if put in capable hands...except Predator and edelbrock carbs lol (I remember years ago playing with a predator carb and while it worked for the most part it was a leaky, bulky sieve, I'm stunned people are running around collecting those things we couldnt give them away 10yrs ago lol)
Seriously though, I like Holley carbs but I'm familiar with them where others may not be.
I've messed with edelbrock carbs many times but they're a copy of the MUCH better carter carbs. But the Eddy carbs are "throw-away" carbs, meaning it costs a lot to completely rebuild them but for a few bucks more you can buy a new one plus their resale value is in the toilet.
But then again I'm a fan of stromberg carbs to...
For SBM's (iirc).
ALL carbs can be made to run extremely well, if put in capable hands...except Predator and edelbrock carbs lol (I remember years ago playing with a predator carb and while it worked for the most part it was a leaky, bulky sieve, I'm stunned people are running around collecting those things we couldnt give them away 10yrs ago lol)
Seriously though, I like Holley carbs but I'm familiar with them where others may not be.
I've messed with edelbrock carbs many times but they're a copy of the MUCH better carter carbs. But the Eddy carbs are "throw-away" carbs, meaning it costs a lot to completely rebuild them but for a few bucks more you can buy a new one plus their resale value is in the toilet.
But then again I'm a fan of stromberg carbs to...
#13
i hope you can stand me doing an other post on carbs. on the EDDY carbs. this is hints i have posted before. hope you dont get made at me. 1. EDDY carbs are not jetted right, from the factory. the rods have to big of steps from power step to cruse step. check how chrysler did there rods. make the EDDY rods closer to chrysler rods. for reg mopar engines, if its an all out race engine thats different. 2. change ONLY the rod OR jet, not both at the same time. when you change both you cant guess what the change is. 3. the jet does not have to be tight, just snug is fine.
#14
i hope you can stand me doing an other post on carbs. on the EDDY carbs. this is hints i have posted before. hope you dont get made at me. 1. EDDY carbs are not jetted right, from the factory. the rods have to big of steps from power step to cruse step. check how chrysler did there rods. make the EDDY rods closer to chrysler rods. for reg mopar engines, if its an all out race engine thats different. 2. change ONLY the rod OR jet, not both at the same time. when you change both you cant guess what the change is. 3. the jet does not have to be tight, just snug is fine.
Those tips can help people who have/use/like Eddy carbs.
I've messed with Eddy carbs many times and I'm just not a fan,
I'd rather have a carter- cheaper to rebuild (for the most part), and better resale value, but I'm a holley guy.
#15
it took a while to figure the jetting thing. what i listed is just short version. sometime when i have more time ill do long version. a hint i for got. first thing clear off a clean space on the table. and get 4 clean shop rags. put two on heads over the open space on each side of the carb. then you wont lose the small parts.
#16
"Dissing" Holleys because you had to argue with OEM carbs is more than unfair. MOST of the OEM Holleys you ran across had to have been 'in the smog era' and this was a terrible time for all manufacturers, all engines, and all performance.
I've had about as much trouble with Holley as Carter / Ed. The Holleys, popped power valves and leaky PVs right out of the box. This includes Blue Streak and Holley kits. Leaky fuel bowls, and on spread bores, sticky, gummy rear barrels that stick cracked open and cause idle and low speed problems.
Once you get them "figgured" I've had little problems with Carters until the current crop of drunk gasoline. Ed's seem to boil worse because the float bowls are "down flat" on that kitchen range of an engine.
My ultimate solution has been to (finally) convert to EFI
I've had about as much trouble with Holley as Carter / Ed. The Holleys, popped power valves and leaky PVs right out of the box. This includes Blue Streak and Holley kits. Leaky fuel bowls, and on spread bores, sticky, gummy rear barrels that stick cracked open and cause idle and low speed problems.
Once you get them "figgured" I've had little problems with Carters until the current crop of drunk gasoline. Ed's seem to boil worse because the float bowls are "down flat" on that kitchen range of an engine.
My ultimate solution has been to (finally) convert to EFI
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