Hey everyone, new to the forums. My name is Dennis and I live in Portland, OR. I have a question. I have owned my baby for many years now, 67 Barracuda. Only problem is my dream car had a 340 in it. Mine has a 225 with a 904 and most likely an 8 1/4" rear. I haven't driven it all too much as I was waiting til I had the money to splurge for the motor and trans. We'll I am finally there and I recently found a 340 for $2500 and I am looking for advice on prices and checking numbers so I know it's legit. I was a bit of a gear head as a teenager but have fallen to the wayside since but I still have skills and most obviously taste.
The motor I am looking at is complete minus the carb.

Any help folks?

 

I found a 1968 340 out of a Dart swinger it needs to be rebuilt but it's in good shape for $1000 and I feel that's a great find

 

Welcome Dennis.

If you search the web I'm sure you'll find a numbers source.

 

Welcome from Maine! As stated...Search the web, all kinds of stuff. I'll look around and post something..

Good luck!

 

Here's one with a little info..

http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-engi...g-numbers.html

 

Welcome to the forum

 

IT can cost mega bucks. As it is not going to be original I would suggest getting a 360 and stroke it to a 408 during the rebuild. A 360 should cost maybe $100-200 for a rebuild able core. Engine room is limited A nice 2 1/2" ex system or possibly some shorty headers would do..

 

I agree to a large extent to TVLynn, here's the 'thing'

340s are not "magic." The heads, and ports other than lower compression, which can be 'fixed' are nearly as good on any 360 as the best 340 heads.

And, without "running the numbers" and actually PULLING the heads, you won't know what you have. I have a set of original J heads that are factory 2.02 intakes. I bought an engine, low miles, way back in about 73. So I KNOW the history of it.

But many J heads had SMALLER intake valves. In other words casting no's on heads do NOT tell the whole story.

You can easily find 360s cheap, and the stroke won't hurt a bit. They are a bolt in with the right parts, in place of a 340

You 67, if original will NOT have an 8 1/4. LOOK at the rear axle, then go find the Mopar axle chart online. I'll bet it's a 7 1/4 will will last about 2 minutes behind a 340 360

Another problem you have, if your car is original 67, is that the idler arm is "one year only." Since you seem to want to build it, now would be an eXCLLENT time to find yourself a 73/74 junker with a good "spool mount" K, front disc brakes, and a sway bar. All that will bolt in, with the right parts, under your car

You also will have to make the decision what to do about brakes and wheel pattern. 73 / later had disk brakes and the "large pattern" wheels. So keep that in mind as you look for a rear axle upgrade.

So if you upgrade the rear to "something" before 73, you can keep your small pattern wheels. On the other hand, not much of a wheel selection in those. You have to ponder these points and do some planning. Otherwise, you'll spend a lot of time and money "doing things again."

 

Welcome!