the relay gets its power from the battery and sends it to the ignition starter. The ignition switch tells the relay when to send power to the starter and the coil to start the motor. About how many feet of cable do you need to go from the battery in the truck to the relay?

You might have to get a 4 gauge wire instead as the longer the cable is the more power you can lose through it. Also, when you do get a cable, get a cable that has a lot of very small wires in it, like speaker wire. Electricity travels on the surface of wires, not through them.

 

agree with ya' 78 better to go bigger after every six foot , good point on the strands

 

Welcome to the forums also Gabriel and if you could tell a little abour your rids and yourself

 

I moved the battery to the trunk in my 69 Coronet. I used a Taylor kit with 1/0, stranded diameter positive cable. I installed a remote on/off as per NHRA requirements. I also added an inline fuse in the trunk as a safety measure. What I am finding is that the 150 AMP is blowing sometimes when trying to start the car. Not sure if there is a charging problem or the old battery was just not capable of providing enough juice. I have replaced the battery and will be testing the starting function soon. I am just confused about the fuse 150 AMP fuse blowing. I thought the 1/0 wire would allow the juice to flow easily from the trunk to the engine compartment. I have not run a ground from the battery to the front of the car. I am thinking about it. The ground connection in the rear is connected to the rear rail on the passenger side. Once the car is running there are no electrical issues that I know of. Will also get the alternator tested. It is a Caddy unit, 1 wire system. When I up the RPM the volt meter kicks to about 14 volts. The old AMP meter burned out and almost took the car with it, so I converted to the Volt meter.

There is my experience. Any comments/suggestions welcomed.