318 ignition query...
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318 ignition query...
Hi, I have a 1971 Fury Custom suburban with a 318 2bbl, automatic. It was an early 71, so it still has the points-style ignition system. I was driving to work the other day, right as i let off of the gas to coast into the parking lot, it died, as it does sometimes, if it is not all-the-way warm, it chokes. Now, it is about 45 degrees out, rained all night and is just barely misting, plus fog. I do know that old mopars had a wonderful habit of dying in wet weather, so i waited until after work to mess with it... This is what i have diagnosed so far:
-got fuel, and won't run on ether, so no spark, i conclude...
-i have heard ballasts go bad frequently, so I tested it and it works, but i replaced it anyway just to be sure.
-Now i have power to resistor and slightly less to + on the coil, as it should...
-nothing coming out of coil -, so i replaced the points and condensor
-clean vacuum advance plate, making good ground, and i even replaced the lead from coil to points.
-now i have power to points, they are gapped, and my test light blinks when on coil - when i crank, but i have no spark at the points.
-thinking it might be the ignition switch shorting on cranking, i ran a jumper wire from + on battery to + on coil, and it still won't start
- i have continuity of the rotor and the cap (center nipple) and a good ground of the distributor. i tested instead of replacing cap and rotor as i replaced these components not even 2000m ago.
- now all of this together, all components independently are good, i have power to all components, all lead wires and spark plug wires have continuity, and even if i bypass wires with a jumper, i still don't have spark at the points... AND i used a blow dryer on all ignition components to make sure they were very dry before i put it all back together... FML HELP!!!
-got fuel, and won't run on ether, so no spark, i conclude...
-i have heard ballasts go bad frequently, so I tested it and it works, but i replaced it anyway just to be sure.
-Now i have power to resistor and slightly less to + on the coil, as it should...
-nothing coming out of coil -, so i replaced the points and condensor
-clean vacuum advance plate, making good ground, and i even replaced the lead from coil to points.
-now i have power to points, they are gapped, and my test light blinks when on coil - when i crank, but i have no spark at the points.
-thinking it might be the ignition switch shorting on cranking, i ran a jumper wire from + on battery to + on coil, and it still won't start
- i have continuity of the rotor and the cap (center nipple) and a good ground of the distributor. i tested instead of replacing cap and rotor as i replaced these components not even 2000m ago.
- now all of this together, all components independently are good, i have power to all components, all lead wires and spark plug wires have continuity, and even if i bypass wires with a jumper, i still don't have spark at the points... AND i used a blow dryer on all ignition components to make sure they were very dry before i put it all back together... FML HELP!!!
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i thought of that, and checked it, it seems to be dead on, i think someone did the chain at one point, cause the timing cover has def. been painted a slightly different color than the block, changed points, condensor, everything but cap and rotor, but they both have good continuity and they are not that old, so i dunno.
Hi i have a 1965 plymouth,Im going to the Pertronix Ignition,It will eliminate the points and the Ballast resistor,and you will have a much more dependible electronic ignition.
Last edited by pjmopar; Apr 11, 2009 at 02:20 PM.
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