If you want "that" sound it may not be the right choice for a daily driver, too big a bumpstick is not always a good thing.

 

For those who are looking for just a step above stock, but want to retain the stock torque converter, stock cylinder heads, etc, this cam is the way to go. It's also a great choice for towing, RV use, etc. With a nice broad power band of about 1600-5800 RPM, this cam will give your engine a "slightly rough idle," just enough so people can tell you've "got something under the hood," but it will do it without losing hardly any of the low end response and drivability of a factory high performance cam. Duration at .050" comes in at a nice docile 224 degrees on the intake and 230 on the exhaust, and it's on a 110 degree lobe separation angle. We would NOT recommend this cam for ANY stroker setups, it's going to be way too small. We feel the three bolt timing chain attaching system is far superior to the single bolt, and so we offer this cam to fit only three bolt timing chain sets. We carry them (along with the required bolts, etc.) on our timing chains page. Don't forget to order Comp lifters and break-in lube (shown below) with your new cam! These items are considered essential to ensure that your cam has the longest possible life and is fully covered under Comp's warranty policy. And, since this is Comp we're talking about, you can be assured of two things: The product is 100% made in the USA, and the quality is second to none.
Part No: 145-1223 - Comp Cam Xtreme Energy .477/.480" - Price: $139.95






Found this one on 440source I thing this is the one that i want. Can anyone that knows more than i do let me know if this will be ok.

 

As mentioned before bro, e-mail 440 Source and discuss what your engine is, what it's in, what you're using it for and they should be more than happy to point you in the right direction and what to look out for. Let us know, ok.

 

Ok I am still learning so forgive the repeatative questions. What is the difference between the 360 and 361 is the 360 a small block. If not would these heads have a better compression? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1045760523.html

 

yeah a 360 is a small block, a 361 is a big block {60-66??}not sure of the exact years .

 

Thanks.

 

I think this is the valve seal right? and how do you remove it it has been on there for 32 years.

 

http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/b...ighlighted.jpg

 

Maybe this will work.

http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/b...ighlighted.jpg

 

I don't know what i am doing. I am a mechanic not a computer wizard.

 

Ok. I discovered those are part of the head. new question what if those are mangled a little? how come those are thicker than the others?

 

those are the stems
they are part of the head
thicker than what?

 

the ones next to them?

 

Dos:
1 Know what you are doing!
2 If not get someone that does to help you!

Don'ts
1. Don't just jump into doing something that is going to cost you a lot of money to replace or fix!! For example exibit A: below


SO DID I BASICALLY JUNK THIS HEAD?

 

Are those stock heads, as you could probably get one for between $50-100.

 

Yes they are my stock heads. Are you saying that i pretty much destroyed them?

 

I found these on craigslist. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/1049344453.html ARe there any kind of specific questions i should ask about them?

 

Check out a site like Amazon and get a book on Mopar big block motors. You ask anyone on here and I can pretty much guarantee you they have more notes, books, magazines, downloads, piles of paper than you would believe. A little reading before hand WILL save you money in the long run. Books are cheap, engines aren't. Just trying to help bro.

 

As I said in the pm, those are motor home heads, looking at the casting numbers to see what type, I believe the last three numbers are what most people use to identify them. I would be much more helpful if I was at home as the engine book I have I believe breaks down the different heads.

Do take them to a machine shop as they have a lot of stuff sitting around, I will be selling my extra parts to one when I get back home in a week or so, he said he wants the parts just in case someone comes in and needs it. Also the machine shop will tell you how much it will cost and you may be able to get a replacement for cheaper, but theres only one way to find out.

 

cool thanks for all the insight! I will being doing more reading than doing for now. I do have an engine book I bought for twenty from Mopar on how to build big blocks. Thanks again.

 

Can anyone tell what heads these are?

 

There should be another number on there, might be on the under side I think.

The numbers are:
2843906
2951250
3462346
3751213
3769902
4006452

 

I also found this, "Motorhome/truck heads with extra cooling passages for spark plug area"

I found a few places sell the relatively cleaned up heads for $99.95 each, probably need new valves and stuff.

 

Here ya go bro
3418915 1970 340 T/A 6bbl 2.02" 1.60"
3418915 1971-1972 340 J-heads 2.02" 1.60" 65cc - 73cc
3418915 1971-1972 360 J-heads 1.88" 1.60" 65cc - 73cc

 

I went by the machine shop just down the street from my shop and asked them about my head that i screwed up. and they said it was not that bad that they normally grid that down and put a "perfect circle seal" on instead of the umbrella seals that came off, They also recommended do to the year of the heads that i should put hardened seats in the exhaust. SO, my question is that a good idea or is that just another sum of money to spend?

 

commando, Those numbers are they for the big block heads? I need to be looking for those numbers?

 

I assumed that's what you are looking for as the Craigslist ad was for 440 heads.

However Polaradude found that number associates with 340 heads, so if it is a 440 head look for the numbers I posted.