I want to replace my harmonic balancer (74 B200 w/ 360) while I'm doing the timing chain -but they get pretty expensive. I found a new one for $45 from ECCPP.
Would it be any good compared to those costing over twice as much? How bad can you mess up manufacturing a harmonic balancer?

 

All I can say is.... Some are good and some are bad... And some are really bad.... Kind of like, You get what you pay for....

 

yep. i wouldn't. if it spins you are done.

 

I went with a trusted manufacturer.... It was not easy getting to that thing and I never want to do it again if possible. Finding that the engine on that b200 was wayyyyy over to the side was kinda trippy -actually checked to see if it was still on the mounts -thought they had to be centered.

 

ans can be tough to work on.... Take your time and fit it rite the first time.... Best of luck... Keep us posted....

 

It definitely needs some love! I went ahead and ordered most of what you see here!

 

Well She is 45 years old.... Catching up on all that old hose and issues that you come across seems overwhelming sometimes. But them old 70"s vans was a cool thing to have back in the day. When you see them at car show. Man do they stand out in a crowd....
Your doing good at getting it up and running... And fix it as you go along... Keep Chipping at it... Neat Project..

 

Quick question (ok two)..... I am replacing the timing gears and chain -and noticed there is no oil tab. Is that normal? Where can I get one?

 

Oil tab?

 

Not sure I understand your question ???

 

Yep! (I am just reading all of this now) There should apparently be a groove on the back side of the thrust plate on some 360s to allow oil to get to the chain eventually -but others used a hollow bolt in the top passenger side hole which dripped down onto a metal tab -then onto the chain.
Others also used an oil slinger on the crank which also kept excess oil from the seal. Configurations changed over the years and I don't think any had ALL those features, but I don't think this one has ANY of those features -which is probably why everything was really dry and the recent chain was very stretched (that lower gear looks like it owed the mechanic money, too -along with some other issues -so I'm double-checking everything). Apparently, I can add the oil slinger, just remove the bolt which should be hollow (actually done from factory -or drill a hole in it) -and fabricate the oil tab. (see pic)

 

My 360 has the slot on the back of the Cam Retainer Plate... But Now I understand what you were referring to.

 

Mine was a crank slinger if I remember correctly, it's only been 33 years.

 

He said "Crank Slinger"....

 

Ok settle down Bob.

 

<<<<< refraining from numerous possible humorous responses

 

I have yet more questions.... I pulled the timing cover to replace the chain and left the oil pan in place. However, the two little bottom side gaskets (just above the rubber "U" seal below on either side) with the gasket kit are bigger than the area left around the bottom two bolts which connect the front of the oil pan to the timing cover.
I guess they are supposed to go back a way between the oil pan and block -but i don't want to loosen the oil pan -which is pretty much the only thing not leaking -can I just cut those two little side gaskets to size and douse it with some RTV?
Also..... does the rubber seal shaped like a "U" get any RTV -or do you just leave it as is?

 

dont RTV that. make sure it's in with no binding or bending and tighten down.

 

I would use Silican or RTV..... This is My Go to.... https://www.lawsonproducts.com/Lawso...icone/93844.lp
cut and seal the ends and also the lip seal. Timing gasket and water pump.... Light coat and you good to go.... Just my 2 cents....

 

thanks!

 

So I bought a brand new steering pump and pulley -and the pulley has a wobble.
Is a little wobble OK? The one it replaced also had a wobble. Is this a standard feature on these old keyed shaft pumps/pulleys?

Never mind -returned it and got a better one.

 

got one pic for now.... but also a question.... I bought an ac delco remanufactured steering box... and there is a bout 5 inches of play in the steering wheel. When I wiggle the steering shaft below the rag joint (replaced), I notice the worm gaer/shaft is the only thing moving -and it also moves up and down.
Would that be fixed by bearing preload adjustment at the top -or lash with the allen screw and locknut? Anyway -here is a pic so far (don't mind the bad paint on the brackets -gonna fix it)

 

Sounds like you got a defective Gear Box... Most re-manufactures put a paint strip on that nut and screw. So if you brake that seal/paint line you void the warranty.
My question would be.... How many threads are above the Nut on that adjusting screw?

 

Great -I tinkered with it a bit -hope it isn't defective. There are 3 1/2 to 4 threads showing above the lock nut. When I tinkered with it (loosened the lock nut) the inner screw was loose -no tension on it at all -but I don't even know if there is supposed to be. I put it back in the same position, though.

 

You can adjust it.. And see if the slop goes away. Could be the rebuilder just didnt pre-Load the sector shaft....
Run the screw down until the slop and see if it's good to go? Just be careful it dose not stick at full stop from full lock left to right.

 

Apparently that is the case -maybe they were working on it at the end of the day and just dropped their wrench at quitting time.
After some research, it is definitely not adjusted correctly -or at all.

 

On my third reman steering gear -this one is not as bad -will go with it until I can afford the borgeson upgrade -then there was the fuel tank that looked like it had been run over by a forklift. You might notice a bunch of copper rtv on the exhaust gaskets -they were pitted and I could not afford new ones, so slathered it on there.
I cranked it up today! Exhaust was soaked with leaking trans fluid, so there was smoke everywhere -valves had a tick to start, but got better. Still need to make it more pretty -just got everything organized so it would run, but a good start.
MEANWHILE..... It had and has only a cable from the negative of the battery straight to the engine block. Is there supposed to be a ground strap somewhere, also? (EDIT: NEVER MIND! STUDIED THE WIRING DIAGRAM)