Gas gauge issue 1969 gtx
03-30-2016, 12:14 PM
#1
Gas gauge issue 1969 gtx
Fuel gauge issue, I have the cluster out supported on steering column . The gauge works unless I ground the cluster assemble. I stumbled onto this when I was figuring out why it did not work.
I have another cluster/instrument panel it does the same. I also have put pins (jumpers) just to the input on card for from pin to pin or harness to circuit card.
Anyone know why this is happening
doug1969gtx
I have another cluster/instrument panel it does the same. I also have put pins (jumpers) just to the input on card for from pin to pin or harness to circuit card.
Anyone know why this is happening
doug1969gtx
04-01-2016, 04:59 PM
#8
Super Moderator
Your a man on a mission , wish I could help...good luck!
You should see the nightmares I get into.....lol
04-02-2016, 04:50 AM
#13
Super Moderator
04-02-2016, 07:45 AM
#14
Mopar Lover
Check the printed Circuit it might be shorting when you put it back in the cluster hole? Could be shorting to the Housing causing it to pick up a hot or a ground it's not suppose to have?????
Just food for thought....
Just food for thought....
04-02-2016, 08:19 AM
#15
OK, listen up
The only ground in the gas gauge circuit, other than the sender / tank ground, is the ground which operates the IVR, the regulator / limiter device.
Any other gauges in the cluster EXCEPT the ammeter should operate "the same" that is, oil, temp, and fuel. If you can "jerry rig" the wiring, you can substitute the fuel sender wire to either the temp or oil gauge, and they should operate the same. That is, all senders and all gauges are the same except for lettering
You can get a "reasonable check" on gauge operation by substituting resistors, OR by carefully setting your fuel sender to specific resistance using a GOOD ohmeter
Here
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=329012
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=341468
From the above, these are the three key resistances used by the original Chrysler test tool
By setting your fuel sender to these three settings, you should get the gauge readings as listed.
Checking both oil and temp, along with fuel will confirm that the "end to end" circuit is OK
My guess would be troubles in the IVR unit.
OTHER:
On my Dart the following were troubles:
The harness / PC board connector pins were broken and loose. I actually abandoned my original pins and used molex connectors. They can be repaired, here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=234045
On mine, the IVR was bad. I got one from RTE
The finger contacts into which the IVR plugs were not making contact with the board. Had to solder jumpers across from the fingers to the board traces.
The stud nuts for the gauges had corroded. Replace the nuts and loosen / tighten them several times to "scrub" the connection clean
Also clean the copper around the lamp sockets, etc.
If you are absolutely CERTAIN that all connections are good, and let's say the oil and temp gauges work out OK, but the fuel is way off, then the only thing left is that the gauge unit itself is SNAFU
The only ground in the gas gauge circuit, other than the sender / tank ground, is the ground which operates the IVR, the regulator / limiter device.
Any other gauges in the cluster EXCEPT the ammeter should operate "the same" that is, oil, temp, and fuel. If you can "jerry rig" the wiring, you can substitute the fuel sender wire to either the temp or oil gauge, and they should operate the same. That is, all senders and all gauges are the same except for lettering
You can get a "reasonable check" on gauge operation by substituting resistors, OR by carefully setting your fuel sender to specific resistance using a GOOD ohmeter
Here
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=329012
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=341468
From the above, these are the three key resistances used by the original Chrysler test tool
By setting your fuel sender to these three settings, you should get the gauge readings as listed.
Checking both oil and temp, along with fuel will confirm that the "end to end" circuit is OK
My guess would be troubles in the IVR unit.
OTHER:
On my Dart the following were troubles:
The harness / PC board connector pins were broken and loose. I actually abandoned my original pins and used molex connectors. They can be repaired, here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=234045
On mine, the IVR was bad. I got one from RTE
The finger contacts into which the IVR plugs were not making contact with the board. Had to solder jumpers across from the fingers to the board traces.
The stud nuts for the gauges had corroded. Replace the nuts and loosen / tighten them several times to "scrub" the connection clean
Also clean the copper around the lamp sockets, etc.
If you are absolutely CERTAIN that all connections are good, and let's say the oil and temp gauges work out OK, but the fuel is way off, then the only thing left is that the gauge unit itself is SNAFU
Last edited by DDodger; 04-02-2016 at 08:21 AM.
The following users liked this post:
schreddr (04-24-2016)
04-02-2016, 01:49 PM
#16
Super Moderator
OK, listen up
The only ground in the gas gauge circuit, other than the sender / tank ground, is the ground which operates the IVR, the regulator / limiter device.
Any other gauges in the cluster EXCEPT the ammeter should operate "the same" that is, oil, temp, and fuel. If you can "jerry rig" the wiring, you can substitute the fuel sender wire to either the temp or oil gauge, and they should operate the same. That is, all senders and all gauges are the same except for lettering
You can get a "reasonable check" on gauge operation by substituting resistors, OR by carefully setting your fuel sender to specific resistance using a GOOD ohmeter
Here
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=329012
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=341468
From the above, these are the three key resistances used by the original Chrysler test tool
By setting your fuel sender to these three settings, you should get the gauge readings as listed.
Checking both oil and temp, along with fuel will confirm that the "end to end" circuit is OK
My guess would be troubles in the IVR unit.
OTHER:
On my Dart the following were troubles:
The harness / PC board connector pins were broken and loose. I actually abandoned my original pins and used molex connectors. They can be repaired, here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=234045
On mine, the IVR was bad. I got one from RTE
The finger contacts into which the IVR plugs were not making contact with the board. Had to solder jumpers across from the fingers to the board traces.
The stud nuts for the gauges had corroded. Replace the nuts and loosen / tighten them several times to "scrub" the connection clean
Also clean the copper around the lamp sockets, etc.
If you are absolutely CERTAIN that all connections are good, and let's say the oil and temp gauges work out OK, but the fuel is way off, then the only thing left is that the gauge unit itself is SNAFU
The only ground in the gas gauge circuit, other than the sender / tank ground, is the ground which operates the IVR, the regulator / limiter device.
Any other gauges in the cluster EXCEPT the ammeter should operate "the same" that is, oil, temp, and fuel. If you can "jerry rig" the wiring, you can substitute the fuel sender wire to either the temp or oil gauge, and they should operate the same. That is, all senders and all gauges are the same except for lettering
You can get a "reasonable check" on gauge operation by substituting resistors, OR by carefully setting your fuel sender to specific resistance using a GOOD ohmeter
Here
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=329012
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=341468
From the above, these are the three key resistances used by the original Chrysler test tool
By setting your fuel sender to these three settings, you should get the gauge readings as listed.
Checking both oil and temp, along with fuel will confirm that the "end to end" circuit is OK
My guess would be troubles in the IVR unit.
OTHER:
On my Dart the following were troubles:
The harness / PC board connector pins were broken and loose. I actually abandoned my original pins and used molex connectors. They can be repaired, here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=234045
On mine, the IVR was bad. I got one from RTE
The finger contacts into which the IVR plugs were not making contact with the board. Had to solder jumpers across from the fingers to the board traces.
The stud nuts for the gauges had corroded. Replace the nuts and loosen / tighten them several times to "scrub" the connection clean
Also clean the copper around the lamp sockets, etc.
If you are absolutely CERTAIN that all connections are good, and let's say the oil and temp gauges work out OK, but the fuel is way off, then the only thing left is that the gauge unit itself is SNAFU
The following users liked this post:
doug1969gtx (04-03-2016)
04-02-2016, 02:25 PM
#17
Super Moderator
Cool beans.... as Bob would say........!
Who the f*** wants cool beans, got to be hot!!!
Who the f*** wants cool beans, got to be hot!!!
04-03-2016, 04:46 AM
#19
pins
I had pins broke also. I soldered them in. Never thought to put nail up through. I used a hot gun and heated fast, not to cook the board.
I think my problem might be in the limiter. I tried one I had laying around yesterday before I left and it seamed ok. I will check out Monday
I think my problem might be in the limiter. I tried one I had laying around yesterday before I left and it seamed ok. I will check out Monday
04-03-2016, 11:06 AM
#20
Super Moderator
04-04-2016, 08:41 AM
#22
04-24-2016, 09:04 PM
#23
New Member
OMG... Did Chrysler steal (Lucas) electronics from england???
MNy gas gauge does the same thing. 1964 newport. The temp guage works fine. Oil is a light. But that works too????
MNy gas gauge does the same thing. 1964 newport. The temp guage works fine. Oil is a light. But that works too????
04-25-2016, 05:07 PM
#24
The aftermarket gauge is junk. The aftermarket voltage limiter burns holes in your card LOL its no joke. My old stuff I found works fine. Been alot of tail chasing and smoke. Hey have a junk one setting on the bench and your prints, jumpers, old gauge,
Doug
Doug
05-26-2016, 03:39 PM
#29
tire issue
But looking at the build sheet it only has numbers no T. I do see a through t on the sheet but no numbers under the T. Would it be on the build sheet or fender tag.
Doug
Doug
