Fuel gauge issue, I have the cluster out supported on steering column . The gauge works unless I ground the cluster assemble. I stumbled onto this when I was figuring out why it did not work.
I have another cluster/instrument panel it does the same. I also have put pins (jumpers) just to the input on card for from pin to pin or harness to circuit card.
Anyone know why this is happening

doug1969gtx

 

?? I would start by disconnecting the sending unit at the tank and then try it...

 

I did that

 

Dose the cluster show having voltage? Thats like way odd....

 

when I ground the cluster it sends the gauge to empty

 

And when you move the float... nothing happens?

What if you just ohm the wire at the cluster When it's unplugged? dose it show correct?

 

float works fine. I have one I am sitting in the car with and it reacts the same. And I have the dash on the floor(cluster)

 

Your a man on a mission , wish I could help...good luck!

 

I might be having a run of all bad voltage limiters on the circuit card. I did stumble into something.

 

First time this motor ran since 1974 was December 2015. Restoration been sometime coming.
Doug
PS Thanks for help

 

Cool beans.... You should see the nightmares I get into.....lol

 

I bought a 1957 Chrysler Crown Imperial conv to restore some years ago. I think it will be a lot of fun. I will post next week if I have gtx solved

 

That looks like a ambitious project...looking forward to the pics.

 

Check the printed Circuit it might be shorting when you put it back in the cluster hole? Could be shorting to the Housing causing it to pick up a hot or a ground it's not suppose to have?????
Just food for thought....

 

OK, listen up

The only ground in the gas gauge circuit, other than the sender / tank ground, is the ground which operates the IVR, the regulator / limiter device.

Any other gauges in the cluster EXCEPT the ammeter should operate "the same" that is, oil, temp, and fuel. If you can "jerry rig" the wiring, you can substitute the fuel sender wire to either the temp or oil gauge, and they should operate the same. That is, all senders and all gauges are the same except for lettering

You can get a "reasonable check" on gauge operation by substituting resistors, OR by carefully setting your fuel sender to specific resistance using a GOOD ohmeter

Here

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=329012

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=341468

From the above, these are the three key resistances used by the original Chrysler test tool



By setting your fuel sender to these three settings, you should get the gauge readings as listed.

Checking both oil and temp, along with fuel will confirm that the "end to end" circuit is OK

My guess would be troubles in the IVR unit.

OTHER:

On my Dart the following were troubles:

The harness / PC board connector pins were broken and loose. I actually abandoned my original pins and used molex connectors. They can be repaired, here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=234045

On mine, the IVR was bad. I got one from RTE

The finger contacts into which the IVR plugs were not making contact with the board. Had to solder jumpers across from the fingers to the board traces.

The stud nuts for the gauges had corroded. Replace the nuts and loosen / tighten them several times to "scrub" the connection clean

Also clean the copper around the lamp sockets, etc.

If you are absolutely CERTAIN that all connections are good, and let's say the oil and temp gauges work out OK, but the fuel is way off, then the only thing left is that the gauge unit itself is SNAFU

 

Hero of the day.....DDodger.....way to go!

 

Cool beans.... as Bob would say........!



Who the f*** wants cool beans, got to be hot!!!

 

Are you sure your not from Idaho ??????

 

I had pins broke also. I soldered them in. Never thought to put nail up through. I used a hot gun and heated fast, not to cook the board.

I think my problem might be in the limiter. I tried one I had laying around yesterday before I left and it seamed ok. I will check out Monday

 

Idahoan?

Or are you calling me Mr Potato Head?

 

Who is RTE. I might as well get one to make sure

 

http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/Main_Page

Here........

 

OMG... Did Chrysler steal (Lucas) electronics from england???
MNy gas gauge does the same thing. 1964 newport. The temp guage works fine. Oil is a light. But that works too????

 

The aftermarket gauge is junk. The aftermarket voltage limiter burns holes in your card LOL its no joke. My old stuff I found works fine. Been alot of tail chasing and smoke. Hey have a junk one setting on the bench and your prints, jumpers, old gauge,
Doug

 

Glad you got it working Doug.... Hope it looks good also?

 

It does, I had this one on rotisserie

 

Can anyone tell me how I can figure out from my build sheet if my 1969 GTX had red lines or raised white letters ?

 

The T Number... Wow, You almost got this one ready to drive?
T82 White 15"
T83 Red 14"
T85 Red 14" Glass Belted

 

But looking at the build sheet it only has numbers no T. I do see a through t on the sheet but no numbers under the T. Would it be on the build sheet or fender tag.
Doug

 

I have the book showing t85 and such but how do I locate them on build sheet? Or is it fender tag stuff?
Doug