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Old 12-23-2014, 03:04 PM
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Hello again. I finally got around to replacing the fuel pump. put in a new pump now she won't start. i'm getting fuel cause when i stop cranking it splashes out the top. guessing that is not good. when i pump the accel pedal is seems to want to start by cranking quicker but wont start and then seems to backfire (fuel up through carb). i have been looking for a new carb replacement mostly cause i hear these t4 carbs are finiky? my local parts storte suggested an eldebrock carb with an adaptor plate for the manifold. would this be an easier solution to my no start issue or does someone know how to fix the no start issue.
thanks an have an easy day
Old 12-24-2014, 07:36 PM
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D -

You "KNOW" you're getting spark, right?

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Old 12-25-2014, 08:03 AM
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Sounds like it jumped time...Bill
Old 12-25-2014, 08:57 AM
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"splashing out top" does not sound good. maybe needle sticking in carb. pull plugs look for wetness
Old 12-26-2014, 08:07 AM
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You got some work ahead of you Don !!!!!
Old 12-27-2014, 04:11 PM
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once you go electric you never go back. LOL.
Old 12-29-2014, 07:07 AM
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thanks

yes I did check for spark . and that is not the issue. how wet is the intake manifold supposed to be? back at the shop today. going to take that carb off and check there.
Thanks for the help and yep I have a lot of work ahead
Old 12-29-2014, 08:32 AM
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Don -

If you have fuel and spark (and the engine isn't flooded), the only other possible thing would be the engine severely out of timing. Something the the dizzy in 180* off or a number of wires in the wrong firing order.

Even with that, having spark would give you at least a pop omewhere.

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Old 12-29-2014, 01:17 PM
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I agree... If you have spark and fuel..... Then the problem is going to be, distributor timing or cam timing is out of place...
Old 12-29-2014, 02:34 PM
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Bob are you trying to say it jumped time??? If the vehicle was running and all of a sudden it wont start... HMMMMMMMMMMM let me think... OH I got it!!!! Maybe it jumped time... Esp. if it backfires thought the carb and spits gas out... Check it and report back Don...Bill
Old 12-29-2014, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pro-tech
Bob are you trying to say it jumped time??? If the vehicle was running and all of a sudden it wont start... HMMMMMMMMMMM let me think... OH I got it!!!! Maybe it jumped time... Esp. if it backfires thought the carb and spits gas out... Check it and report back Don...Bill
HMMMMMMMMMM....Ya.. Thats it.....
Old 12-29-2014, 05:07 PM
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okay i took carb off and apart on my table. when I first put rebuild kit in i guesstimated the float height. yeah i know but i was banking on luck. anyway it's apart now on my table and I found a site that said when carb is flipped over that the float to body should be 1.25" and used my digit calipers this time. will put it in and test again
thanks again for suggestions
Old 12-29-2014, 06:35 PM
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or 27/32..... Float to gasket.....
Old 12-29-2014, 06:57 PM
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done carb installment and it still wont start. after cranking for about 10 sec it gives the sign that it will start (sounds like ignition) but only for splt second then back to cranking.... can it really jump out of time? the engine only has 70,000 km. and it was running(not good) until i installed new pump. what would cause that timing issue? i'm gonna pull plugs and check them
Old 12-29-2014, 07:44 PM
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they each had spark.was perfect time to test dark outside and freezing cold. they were weak sparks nothing bright(yellowish). will put new ones in and try again. if it is 180 out do i rotate the cap 180 or move distributor but if it is 180 out shouldn't it backfire / buck / scare you enough to stop cranking. it doesn't do any of those.
thanks for the help
Old 12-30-2014, 06:25 AM
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Standard timing chain replacement is 60-100K miles and if it is a silent chain with a nylon cam gear Yes it more than likely jumped time... If you bring it up on TDC of the compression stroke of #1 the rotor should point to number one on the cap. Another quick check to see if it jump time is to advance the distributor and see if it starts or tries to start more then it does now... I am 99.9% sure you will find that it jumped time. In which case it will need a timing chain and gears and when you do replace them go for the double roller chain and gears.. They are a little more money but well worth the extra expense.. I have never seen a double roller chain jump time. They get worn after a lot of use but don't usually jump...Bill NOTE: How would it be 180* out if you didn't put it 180* out???? Before you go doing anything with the distributor check what I said and save yourself a ton of grief....Trust me... Right Bob

Last edited by pro-tech; 12-30-2014 at 06:29 AM.
Old 12-30-2014, 07:05 AM
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Thanks. I will check the tdc.
Old 12-30-2014, 07:07 AM
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shoot forgot to ask is the #1 on the right side or left facing engine. been 40 years since my high school shop class
Old 12-30-2014, 07:24 AM
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Rite Bill.......
Don... Front cylinder on the drivers side... Dont matter if its Small block or big block
Old 12-30-2014, 07:46 AM
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okay i'm full of coffee and heading out to my -14 C. now to get tdc i need to turn engine by hand but how do i know when it's at top. would the timing marks on damper tell me( doubt it if it's out) or is there a trick . im not doing what one of our classmates did when he used a philps screw driver and broke the tip off in the cylin on a teachers camaro. i still remember the teachers face when he started the car and it rattled
Old 12-30-2014, 09:07 AM
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Here is a video.... Dont worry it a chevy video...But the same principle apply s...


After you do that... You can open the cap and see if it is pointing to the distributor cap tower that leads to the # 1 spark plug....
Old 12-30-2014, 09:23 AM
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okay saw video. I'm alone so I cranked over engine untill marked lines on balancer matched up to TDC. then checked the rotor and it is pointing to # 1. other things I found were I did not hook up an air line to the little tube comming out by the float on #5 cyl side. also I took out plugs 5-8 before trying to find TDC and they were wet. going to replace all plugs and re-test.
Old 12-30-2014, 09:59 AM
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what are the best plugs for this motor and weather conditions or are they basically the same. there were nkg xr5 vpower in there but the more I look up champ RJ12YC seem to be the ones with less problem with cold fouling.
thanks again
Old 12-30-2014, 11:06 AM
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those sound about rite....
Old 12-30-2014, 11:58 AM
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do plugs come pre gapped or do they need to be set
Old 12-30-2014, 12:36 PM
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Set them at 0.030.. That should be good...
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Old 12-30-2014, 01:28 PM
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she is a purring. not even 2 sec or cranking and bang she was awake.
thanks again for every thought & suggestion now i'm gotta see if she will go forward and reverse. quick run down;so she hasn't ran since 2006 or been moved . any tips on trans. should i put a cleaner (if there is) in it before i drain and add new. it was suggested to run 1 litre of trans fluid with my oil to help clean engine parts.
again thanks
have an easy day
Old 12-30-2014, 04:33 PM
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See this is how getting the whole story can really help diagnose a complaint.. I thought you said you replaced the plugs already and it was still backfiring through the carb.. That should of been step one.. But no harm no foul... Glad you got it running...Bill
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RacerHog
Set them at 0.030.. That should be good...
Gee you mean when I was a kid we were always gapping the plugs wrong--we could never find the feeler gages and I remembered my old man saying the points were17 or the thickness of a matchbook and plugs were about 34 or a matchbook cover folded over--always worked for us back in the 60's but we never held on to cars very long back then eithier.
Old 12-31-2014, 08:41 AM
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Holle..... That what you did when you got stuck out on the road and left your feeler gauges at home in your other tool box......
What did you use when your packing started leaking on your model-A water pump when you found out your wrench fell out somewhere on the highway?


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