what kind of oil/grease?
07-07-2009 | 01:21 PM
#2
Hell kitten
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Western Washington
Here's what I've found:
Re: C38 Windsor lube recommendations
I have in front of me, the owner's manual for Canadian made Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler vehicles for 1951.
These were very similar to your car and I believe all lube requirements are identical.
Change oil and lubricate chassis every 1000 miles or 30 days.
Engine- Oil recommended for the following ambient temperatures:
Not lower than +32 Fahrenheit: Use S.A.E. 30
As low as +10 F Use S.A.E. 20-W
As low as -10 F Use S.A.E. 10-W
Below -10 F Use S.A.E. 5-W
Engine oil capacity 4 quarts.
Oil filter, replace filter every 8000 miles (5000 miles on Chryslers with full flow filter) to coincide with an oil change.
Interpretation: SAE 30 is recommended as a summer oil where it is known that the lowest temperatures will not drop below +32 F. And so on.
They mention "Regular" "Premium" and "Heavy Duty" type oils as being suitable to use, but without recommending any particular brand or type of oil.
Modern multi grade and detergent oils were just coming in then, and are a good idea to use today. Do not listen to old fossils who tell you to use straight #50 and other myths. The factory did not recommend them then, and they make no sense now.
Fluid drive and transmission:
The factory recommended using their own brand Chryco Fluid Drive fluid. Chryco was Chrysler Canada's brand of service and repair parts.
They recommended straight 10-W oil for the transmission.
Chryco Fluid Drive fluid has not been available for years. I use tractor fluid, TDH (transmission, differential, and hydraulic oil) ISO32 grade for both. At the recommendation of some Chrysler experts on this forum.
This can be bought from auto parts dealers, in the US and Canada Walmart carries it. Generally speaking it is easy to find, and costs less than $10 a gallon. A gallon should last you for years.
Transmission should be flushed and refilled every 10,000 miles. Fluid drive unit should be checked and topped up every 10,000 miles. Capacity 3 speed - 2 1/3 pints, hydraulically operated transmission 2 1/2 pints. Keep level at bottom of filler plug hole. Do not overfill.
There is no recommendation for ever changing the fluid drive fluid.
Differential:
Capacity 2 3/4 Imperial pints. Check every 1000 miles. Drain and refill every 20,000 miles. Fill with extreme pressure hypoid gear lubricant, SAE 90 above -10F, SAE 80 below -10F. Do not mix different brands of lubricant.
For an extra added attraction:
Oil bath air filter, wash filter element in kerosene as necessary. In extreme dusty conditions this may be necessary daily. In most cases, washing it at oil change or tuneup time will suffice. If the car is driven on paved roads and conditions are not dusty it may go for 5000 miles.
Fill air filter to line with SAE 50 motor oil. When the dirt builds up more than half way, clean out the reservoir and refill with oil.
Oil filler cap and crankcase ventilation outlet air cleaner (where fitted) remove and wash thoroughly with kerosene at oil change time, drain and reoil with SAE 50 engine oil.
Water pump: 2 fittings, water pump grease every 1000 miles. If water pump grease is not available use marine waterproof grease, go easy here as excess grease can contaminate your cooling system and reduce its cooling efficiency.
Steering gearbox:
SAE 90 gear oil
Gearshift rod end:
Thin film of water pump grease.
Front wheel bearings: Every 10,000 miles or once a year, remove and examine wheel bearings. If grease is in good condition it is not necessary to remove it but add grease if necessary. If not in good condition, clean and repack the bearing.
Rear wheel bearings: Every 20,000 miles
Remove plug just inboard of brake backing plate. Insert grease fitting. Grease with 1/2 ounce of short fibre wheel bearing grease (medium}. Do not over grease.
Universal joints: SAE 140 fluid gear lubricant.
Everything else is fairly self explanatory. Semi fluid chassis grease in grease nipples, a squirt of oil to generator and distributor oil cups, and anywhere there are moving parts but no grease fitting.
Happy motoring!
Originally posted at: http://forums.aaca.org/f145/c38-wind...ns-248324.html
Maybe that is of some assistance.
Re: C38 Windsor lube recommendations
I have in front of me, the owner's manual for Canadian made Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler vehicles for 1951.
These were very similar to your car and I believe all lube requirements are identical.
Change oil and lubricate chassis every 1000 miles or 30 days.
Engine- Oil recommended for the following ambient temperatures:
Not lower than +32 Fahrenheit: Use S.A.E. 30
As low as +10 F Use S.A.E. 20-W
As low as -10 F Use S.A.E. 10-W
Below -10 F Use S.A.E. 5-W
Engine oil capacity 4 quarts.
Oil filter, replace filter every 8000 miles (5000 miles on Chryslers with full flow filter) to coincide with an oil change.
Interpretation: SAE 30 is recommended as a summer oil where it is known that the lowest temperatures will not drop below +32 F. And so on.
They mention "Regular" "Premium" and "Heavy Duty" type oils as being suitable to use, but without recommending any particular brand or type of oil.
Modern multi grade and detergent oils were just coming in then, and are a good idea to use today. Do not listen to old fossils who tell you to use straight #50 and other myths. The factory did not recommend them then, and they make no sense now.
Fluid drive and transmission:
The factory recommended using their own brand Chryco Fluid Drive fluid. Chryco was Chrysler Canada's brand of service and repair parts.
They recommended straight 10-W oil for the transmission.
Chryco Fluid Drive fluid has not been available for years. I use tractor fluid, TDH (transmission, differential, and hydraulic oil) ISO32 grade for both. At the recommendation of some Chrysler experts on this forum.
This can be bought from auto parts dealers, in the US and Canada Walmart carries it. Generally speaking it is easy to find, and costs less than $10 a gallon. A gallon should last you for years.
Transmission should be flushed and refilled every 10,000 miles. Fluid drive unit should be checked and topped up every 10,000 miles. Capacity 3 speed - 2 1/3 pints, hydraulically operated transmission 2 1/2 pints. Keep level at bottom of filler plug hole. Do not overfill.
There is no recommendation for ever changing the fluid drive fluid.
Differential:
Capacity 2 3/4 Imperial pints. Check every 1000 miles. Drain and refill every 20,000 miles. Fill with extreme pressure hypoid gear lubricant, SAE 90 above -10F, SAE 80 below -10F. Do not mix different brands of lubricant.
For an extra added attraction:
Oil bath air filter, wash filter element in kerosene as necessary. In extreme dusty conditions this may be necessary daily. In most cases, washing it at oil change or tuneup time will suffice. If the car is driven on paved roads and conditions are not dusty it may go for 5000 miles.
Fill air filter to line with SAE 50 motor oil. When the dirt builds up more than half way, clean out the reservoir and refill with oil.
Oil filler cap and crankcase ventilation outlet air cleaner (where fitted) remove and wash thoroughly with kerosene at oil change time, drain and reoil with SAE 50 engine oil.
Water pump: 2 fittings, water pump grease every 1000 miles. If water pump grease is not available use marine waterproof grease, go easy here as excess grease can contaminate your cooling system and reduce its cooling efficiency.
Steering gearbox:
SAE 90 gear oil
Gearshift rod end:
Thin film of water pump grease.
Front wheel bearings: Every 10,000 miles or once a year, remove and examine wheel bearings. If grease is in good condition it is not necessary to remove it but add grease if necessary. If not in good condition, clean and repack the bearing.
Rear wheel bearings: Every 20,000 miles
Remove plug just inboard of brake backing plate. Insert grease fitting. Grease with 1/2 ounce of short fibre wheel bearing grease (medium}. Do not over grease.
Universal joints: SAE 140 fluid gear lubricant.
Everything else is fairly self explanatory. Semi fluid chassis grease in grease nipples, a squirt of oil to generator and distributor oil cups, and anywhere there are moving parts but no grease fitting.
Happy motoring!
Originally posted at: http://forums.aaca.org/f145/c38-wind...ns-248324.html
Maybe that is of some assistance.
Last edited by Morrigan_Aria; 07-07-2009 at 01:39 PM.
07-07-2009 | 01:35 PM
#3
Mopar Lover
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,509
Likes: 0
From: East Coast Canada
07-07-2009 | 01:38 PM
#4
Hell kitten
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Western Washington
funny you mentioned that...
At first I giggled when I saw the thread topic...but this weekend when I was installing my new gas tank...
I couldn't get the filler neck into the tank grommet. Soooo...I grabbed my 100% silicon latex polish.
Worked like a charm, but I'm truly glad there was no video camera. My buddy and I were talking trash and laughing so hard we had to quit working more than once.I was laughing so hard I was crying.
I couldn't get the filler neck into the tank grommet. Soooo...I grabbed my 100% silicon latex polish.
Worked like a charm, but I'm truly glad there was no video camera. My buddy and I were talking trash and laughing so hard we had to quit working more than once.I was laughing so hard I was crying.
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