im going to rent a electric impact tomorrow, so that problem should be fixed.

what should i do about that brown sludge? i took water and dumped it into the radiator, and i got more sludge and brown water. i want to just take the radiator off and rinse in it with a hose, since ill probably have to take it off anyway to get that impact in there. what should i do about the tranny lines? can i just disconnect them and do something to stop them form dripping, or afterwards will i have to bleed them or something?

im just going to take them off now anyways, its going to have to come off tomorrow.

 

pull the lines find somthing to stop the fluid from coming out, then plug the holes going into the radiator from the trans, so you dont get dirt or gunk in there,
bleeding the transmission is a very difficult task, you got to rent a vacuum pump, this will bleed all the air out of the tranny .........,
im messing with you about bleeding the lines, just hook them back up and when you get it running just check the fluid as normal, fill if needed,

 

WTF. electric impact i paid $30 to RENT didn't even budge that bolt.

then i tried my 1 1/4" wrench again and bent that to a 75 degree angle!

then used my wrench tested to 200 ft/lbs and snapped that.

then used a 3/4" breaker bar with a 1/2" adapter for the socket and snapped the adapter.

then used a 1/2" breaker bar and snapped the drive off.

 

Wow. I think spec on those is 150 ft. lbs. All of those should have broke it loose. Are you sure you are turning the wrench the right way?

 

Actually, I just checked my FSM. On a '65 383 the torque spec is 135 ft. lbs.

 

the bolt is normal thread right?

 

yes clock wise to tightend it, counter clock wise to loosen,

 

at least i know i was turning it the right way haha. would have sucked to break all those tools to find out i was turning it the wrong way haha.

my buddy said he has a air compressor and a impact wrench we can bring to my house. so the problem might get fixed today. hopefully.

 

got the bolt off! my buddy brought over his impact wrench and compressor and got it off.

so far now, i have the timing cover off. the chain is REALLY loose. there's about an inch of play in the chain.

how do i take off the cam sprocket? do i take the cam bolts behind the sprocket off then pull it off? don't i need to line up marks on the crank and cam sprocket before taking them off? i tried looking for them, but i cant see any.

of course somehow though i had to get screwed over, my 13millimeter fell off the battery right into the oil pan. lucky me.

 

Try to fish it out with a magnet.

 

Or drain the oil over a screen.

 

the bolts behind the cam gear holds the cam in dont mess with those!! you should try to line them up as close as you can now they will not line up if your chain jumped, so wen you put the new chain it you only got to rotate the crank a couple of degress.take the cam bolt out a single bolt at the end of the cam, inside a out of round cup like thing. the cup is the fuel pump cam (Eccentric) and walk the cam gear off and the crank gear off tillthey are both off, the cam gear will come off 1st, when you the new chain in line up themarks, after you got enough sprocket on dbl check the marks making sure they are correct,
use a magnet to get the 13 mm out, then throw it away and use the correct 1/2 inch socket.
how worn are the teeth on the cam gear?

 

oops, i already loosened those a little bit. ill tighten those back up.

the gears are pretty worn. also the gear wont budge at all, im going to have to get a gear puller.

 

they can be tough to pull, just dbl check everything timing is not a part you want to go wrong

 

What's the latest?

 

FYI, for you and anyone else who needs to remove the crank bolt again, it is very easy. You need the correct socket (make sure it's a 6 point socket of good quality, Snap-On, Mac, or Craftsman), a short extension (again, of decent quality), and a long breaker bar (also of good quality).

All you do is attach the socket as you would to any other bolt, then turn clockwise (the engine will turn) until the breaker bar is touching the frame. Then bump the starter, the torque from the starter is more than enough to break the bolt loose. This is the best method, you don't an impact, you don't need a belt wrench to prevent the engine from turning, and you can do it with a minimum of space.

Before you completely remove the timing cover, set your engine to top dead center, turn the engine by hand until the timing mark on the balancer is lined up with the mark on the timing cover. Remove the spark plug from the number one cylinder and look in the hole with a flash light, you should be able to see the top of the piston. Remove the valve cover on the same head, and make sure that both valves are closed. If one is open, or partially open, turn the engine one more turn until it comes to TDC once more, both valves should then be closed. (If you have already taken off the cover and balancer, put the cover back on and tighten it down with 2 bolts, one on either side, then slide on the balancer just enough to turn the engine with it. )

Now pull off the timing cover and look at the timing gears. Each one has a mark (usually a small, stamped circle). With the engine at TDC and both valves closed, the mark on the small bottom gear should be at the very top of the gear, and the mark on the big came gear should be on the bottom of the cam gear, facing the mark on the small gear. If they aren't, then your timing chain has probably jumped a tooth. If the marks are lined up, you can put everything back together, as there is nothing wrong with your timing gears/chain. Even if there is nothing wrong with them, it might be a good idea to change them, especially if the cam gear is the aluminum/nylon "silent-drive" type. Scratch the cam gear with a screwdriver, if it's an aluminum gear, it will scratch easily, if it's a steel gear (same metal as the bottom one) then you can leave it alone and put the engine back together.

If there is a problem with the gear, and you replace it, fine, hopefully your problem was solved. But if there is nothing wrong with the timing gears, then you might have a bad rocker arm/pushrod, or lifter/s. Remove the valve covers and make sure the bolts holding the rocker shafts are tight. Then look at the rocker arms themselves, from time to time I have come across small block engines which have had a pushrod wear completely through the rocker arm, causing a dead cylinder, which resulted in problems similar to what you described. Also, on the valves which are closed (rockers are not pushing them down) wiggle the rocker arm, pushing it down against the push rod. It shouldn't move. If the pushrod moves when you press the rocker against it, you have a collapsed lifter. You'll have to turn the engine little by little to check all of the lifters. If any are bad, your best bet is to replace the cam and all of the lifters. Since you now have experience in removing the balancer and timing cover, you know more than than half the job of replacing the cam already.

Don't get discouraged by these problems, you can learn even from the worst problems and situations, just try to look at the bright side of them. If you have any questions or any problems, feel free to PM me.

 

i just got offered this car for trade for the polara. sorry guys but if there is not a hole in this trade somewhere, i don't know if im going to be able to pass it up. he says it needs an engine and master cylinder. i just dont now an easy way to find an engine for it.

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/1896180217.html

 

nice car, do what you want, just put a mopar engine in it!!

 

Wow, a nice car, the same type used in the old horror flick "The Car". It's likely that the engine in the car is salvageable; pull it out, tear it down, send the block and heads out for cleaning, honing, decking, and a valve job (not that expensive, believe it or not), then put it all back together with new rings, bearings, and gaskets.

The master cylinder is a routine fix, even someone new to the job should be able to do it in under an hour.

Like your Polara, it's an old car, so it will have similar issues to your Polara. You'll probably have to replace all of the rubber stuff (hoses, belts, vacuum lines), and get the suspension bushings (more rubber parts) replaced as well. I would be willing to bet that the transmission is not in good shape, and it would be a good idea to drop the gas tank and get it cleaned out as well. The carb is going to need rebuilding or replacing, and a hundred other things are likely to come up as well.


In the end it'll still cost a fraction of what a newer car at a dealership would run, but you get the benefit of driving something unique. And, unlike a newer car, when you go to sell it you'll probably end up getting a lot more money out of it than you paid for it.

 

man I have a soft spot for continentals, and that one is SWEET. but as sangetsu said, it its been sitting long enough to lock up the engine, you will have ALOT of work ahead of you.

 

honestly it would be a good car to have but i don't think i want it. i need more of a daily driver.

i do want to try to sell the polara sadly. i just didn't realize how much work this thing needed. plus, it leaks. i cant even drive in rain.

estimate how much do you guys think its worth after the timing chain if it runs smooth?

 

i think if i sell the polara, i will buy a car just like this. sorry it isnt mopar, but this car is fast, dirt cheap, and i can find parts for it anywhere. (i never realized how hard it could be to find parts until i got a mopar haha)

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1920765088.html

 

From a 64 Polara to an 89 "Mustang." Oh man. From one extreme to the other!

 

man dont sell the polara!! dont give up, if you give up now, u probably will regret it in the future when that ford dies on you and leaves you stranded. Keep workin

 

If it leaks, why don't you just buy new rubber for it?

 

I notice the listing for the Mustang has been removed, did you get it? The Mustang might be 25 years newer than your Polara, but there's a good chance that you'll end up having to do work to it as well. The only difference is that your Polara is a simpler and roomier machine to work on.

It's not a good idea to abandon a project you've started, even if you have bitten off more than you can chew. You don't want to get into the habit of starting things you can't finish. The work on your Polara needs might seem overwhelming to you now, but you can learn a lot by doing it.

As for the value of your Polara if you get the timing chain fixed and the rest of the car runs fine, then it's probably more valuable to you as a daily-driver than to someone else.

Get the car back together and see if you can get it running right before you go shopping for something else.

 

rubbers for this car are crazy expensive. i need probably a new trunk seal, the stripping for in-between the windows, and for where the windows meet the door.

plus, i took off the bottom chrome piece from the windshield, and there are afew4 inch holes right through to inside the car under that chrome. what i want to do with that, is put a sheet of fiberglass on it. its a deep "u" shape, so i cant think of a better way to get it.

 

The rubber is not important, at least not yet. You can get inexpensive seal material to use in the trunk, it is adhesive backed and is easy to install. It'll keep the water out of your trunk until you can afford a repro seal. As for the seals between the windows, carefully applied black silicone can seal leaks and make them look much better until you replace them.

For under the windshield trim, you can use fiberglass, as you suggested. Just make sure to clean and seal the rusty surfaces before you apply it. You can get the fiberglass kit at auto parts stores, it's not expensive.

 

ok, got some work going. i got the timing cover on, and the put on the harmonic balancer. i cant get the fuel pump to go on though. it wont go flush where it has to go. it seems like something inside is in the way of letting it in all the way.

also i still haven't got that wrench i dropped in the oil pan out yet. its going to be such a pain in the @$$ since i cant get the car on ramps since i cant start it with it in there.

 

as for the hole just use fiberglass make sure the area around the hole and rust free, then they sell a heavy screen to put behinde the hole to keep the FG from sagging,
fuel pump there is something behind it keeping it from goin in thats the eccentric (fuel pump cam) you can turn the engine my hand till it gets closer to seating all the way then just bolt it on,