lehouilliere

I have a 1966 dodge pick up 318 wide block that I have completely rebuilt but I need the valve adjustment specifications and sequence so I can then put in the fire sequence and get her running....Anyone know this info????

440roadrunner

I know you hear this all the time, but they really are not a "wide block." In fact, if you were to strip off the heads, you would have time telling the block apart from an LA They are more properly known as a "Poly head" engine

Two methods, actually variations of the same method, works on ANY 4 stroke engine, from a 1 cyl Briggs to a Pratt Whitney radial

If you degree your balancer every 90* you can use this chart:



Another method that requires no chart is what I use, known as "EOIC"

This means that you rotate the engine until:

the EXHAUST is just starting to OPEN and set the intake on that cylinder

then rotate until

the INTAKE has opened and is nearly CLOSED and set the exhaust on that cylinder.

I usually use the feeler for the gap I want, and one about .002" larger. Adjust so that the one you want "goes" and the larger one does not You simply have to develop a "feel" for the gauge.

I do NOT try and set the engine running.

Expansion varies depending on whether you have iron block and heads, iron block, aluminum heads, or all aluminum engine.

Generally and all- iron engine develops MORE lash when hot. IF the specs are very tight, I usually set them AT LEAST that big cold in any case, and readjust when hot

TDC: It is a GOOD idea, if you have not, to confirm that TDC and the marks are correct. Buy or make a piston stop like this:



First time you use this, you may have to "play" with the length. Remove the no1 plug, make sure the piston is "down a ways" and remove the battery ground. Screw in the device, and wrench the engine over until it stops on the device, or adjust the device so it does. You are NOT trying to stop the engine "at" TDC, but rather, with the piston down some distance.

With the engine stopped against the device, make a temporary mark on the balancer immediately below the 0 (TDC) mark on the timing tab. Wrench the engine counterclockwise and make a second mark.

You will now have TWO temporary marks, and true TDC is halfway in between. If the original mark is still accurate, that is where it will be.

You can degree the wheel, by measuring carefully around it with a thin tape to get an accurate measure of the circumferance. Then you can calculate how many "degrees per inch" and scribe the wheel accordingly. You should do this out to 50-55*

You can also buy the proper size "timing tape" which self - sticks to the balancer

INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR

First, understand that the normal timing marks on the cam (12 o'clock and 6 o'clock) are NOT TDC for no1, but rather no6

There are two ways to obtain the proper stroke for the distributor. If the valve covers are off, bring the engine around to "where you want the timing" IE rotate until the marks are say, 10* BTC or so. If both valves on no1 are closed, then no1 is ready to fire. If both valves on no6 are closed, then you are ready to fire on no6. You can now install the distributor to whichever cylinder is closed, 1 or 6.

I always take the dist. cap, and immediately below the no1 plug tower, I scribe a line on the dist housing rim. This way, I can see what I'm doing with the cap off. Install the dist, and rotate RETARDED (cw on small block), then slowly rotate towards "advanced" (ccw on small block) until the points just open (use a light) or if you are running breakerless, until the reluctor wheel tip is in the center of the pickup coil.

If the valve covers are installed. do this:

Remove no1 plug, stick you finger in the hole, and bump the engine until compression pops your finger out. You might have to "go round" a couple of times to "get the feel" of this. When you START to feel pressure on your finger, start watching the timing marks, and bump or wrench the engine, as before to 10* BTC or wherever you want initial time

Now install the dist to no1, as above.

THIS METHOD, once you learn it is close enough that the engine should start right up and run with no fuss at all. You might have to argue with fuel supply, but you should not have to argue with timing with this method.

My 66 passenger car book shows 318 valve clearance is .013 intake, .021 exhaust, HOT Points gap .014-.019", dwell 28-32* timing is 5BTC--10BTC, depending on std trans or auto trans