Hello All.

First I apologize if I am in the posting in the wrong place. This is in fact my first time on a forum of any sort. I am hoping to capitalize on the wealth of knowledge from others and avoid my own blunders.

I have a 1983 318 and 727 trans I want to put in a 1941 Fargo pickup. ( the Canadian Dodge) Its for my wife so I need it reliable and driveable. Dont care about fuel economy with a budget of $5000. Hoping for 300 or more hp.

Thank you in advance.
Gerard.

 

Welcome to the forum, sounds like a cool project let's see pictures if you have them!

 

WElcome to the site...

 

 

Now that I like!
Are you going to keep it stock appearing?

 

Yes
I am going to keep it as stock looking as I can. I have a 2015 Tacoma two wheel drive that the engine blew up. I will be trans planting the front and rear suspension from. That way I have brakes and a good ride
The Fargo is bone stock. So she is a challenge to her up and down the road. Stopping is somewhat interesting...

 

300 hp with AC and Cruze maybe the ABS should be fun to drive.

Edit: what's a Tacoma?

 

A Toyota Tacoma. It's a midsized truck

 

Welcome from Dorchester Ontario.

The key is if you change pistons learn about compression height to try for zero deck to raise compression and get quench, stock piston heights put them way down in the hole.

with stock pistons check this out.

https://www.allpar.com/mopar/4bbl.html

 

Dan can steer you on a good 318 build!👍

 

This should be an interesting project but I'd like to know how it ends up the wifes. You must have a high dollar project of your own.

 

Okay so I've read about upping compression, it seems some Keith black 167 pistons are popular with the 318. I am guessing a 9-10.5 compression is the target number?

My wife has always wanted an old truck. I am a fan of the big fender with high mounted headlights, and being a mopar guy this Fargo fit the bill.

 

I'd say the compression ratio depends on the heads. I'd want 9.0 to 9.5 for iron and 10.0 to 1 for aluminum. But even then on a mild build you need to consider the cam for dynamic compression.

 

I need it to be a daily driver so the cam will be mild. I want it to perform and sound nice. I'm willing to do intake,carb,porting,pistons,headers and exhaust. As long as I can cram it in the engine compartment.

 

I'm thinking Keith black pistons, edelbrock air gap intake and carb.

 

Mine was a stock cast piston .030" over engine with an Edelbrock Performer, mild port and match 302 heads and a Comp Cam XE 256 H camshaft In my D250. Lots of low end grunt and surprised me on the top end. The Air Gap might be too big for 318 heads looking at what your wanting for low end torque, don't overlook the cast iron 340/360 manifold, excellent design and cheap.

Ran a 3.55 gear with lock up auto O.D., then a 1 to 1 833 (always felt like it needed one more gear), then an overdrive 833 was the best. That thing hauled more than it should have and never gave us a problem, still got the engine.

I like the donor truck idea, get all that modern suspension in there.

 

Thanks. Excellent advice. This is what I'm looking for. I'm hoping for an engine that's parts compliment and balance each other. I am trying to avoid over building in one area and not enough in another.

 

If you use OEM cast iron heads be aware that factory machining was inconsistent and valve guide to retainer clearance can be a problem over .450" lift. I used a Comp Cam guide and seat cutter to get clearance and install positive lock valve stem seals. This can easily be done at home with a cordless drill. There are also some oiling modification drilling you should consider for better oil flow and longevity.

 

Picked up a complete 318 today. It has 302 heads on it. Looking forward to teardown.

 

Sounds like a good start...

 

Everything I read on forums say get a set of 302 heads and bolt on and go. I've looked at 3 sets. All cracked, seats hammered need replacing and the valve guides are in need of replacement.

I'm ready to give up and order new heads.

Any advice??

 

Now your talking!👍

 

I've wasted time and money searching high and low. I think call summit and order a set of edelbrock. Then I have new technology, high compression, big valves and flow.

 

Sorry for the whining but its frustrating

 

The reason you've stated are why everyone says buy new aluminum heads. Finding good used can be tough.

 

Thanks. At least it makes me feel better to have someone says so. 😀

 

Some of the late '80's blocks had provisions for rocker shaft oiling through the block and cast bosses in the lifter valley to hold a spider for roller lifters, one of these gives you options, be sure which lifters and rocker system you'll use before ordering heads.

Look into Engine Quest cast iron heads too. I got lucky with two sets of "302" heads, looked at several smashed valve seat magnum heads, it is a crap shoot with used parts. One engine I will be building will have Edelbrock Aluminum the other iron EQ heads.

Which ever you come up with have a good engine builder/machinist disassemble to check guides and seats.

There are many using inexpensive Chevrolet bee hive springs and rocker arms on the magnum style heads. Do your research and know your build plan before ordering parts.

 

Right on. Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I really dont want to spend on the new edelbrock, but in the end as long as I get what I pay for it's worth it.

 

I have began talking with a local engine builder and have emailed Hughes. I have two blocks, a flat tappet on the 83 and a roller in the 89. The cost is higher in building the roller but can use higher and wider cams. So many options its unreal. I'm worried about over building and taking away from the daily driver cruiser aspect.

 

It all depends on your performance gole, how mush power do you expect from the 318?