70newport

So i want my winter project to be doing a new cam/lifter set in my 68 newport. I have done much reading on what to shoose and well....WTF! i have no idea. too many numbers lol.

the following thread has my mods already done.

https://moparforums.com/forums/f66/e...-newport-7657/

the car is street driven LOTS!

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

67 GTX

what rear end ratio do you have in it?

70newport

factory highway gears. i believe it is a 2.73

1966sportfury

[quote=mr.power;56297]Call comp cams tech line they will help you pick I would stay away from mopar cams. quote]

X2!

scotts74birds

Heres a toy for you to play with! It will will help get an idea of what your actual, or dream set-up will work with. http://www.compcams.com/Pages/409/camquest-6.aspx

70newport

thanks for the suggestion.

I called comp cams and they suggested the 21-237-4 Cam. here is my new question that they didnt answer for me.

I gave them the information they asked for about my car and what i have and what the cam is for does not seem to match at all.

Recommended cam: meant for " 9:1 to 10:1 compression. 383 needs 2500 stall. 440 needs 2000 stall. Use 700-800 CFM carburetor, headers, 3.91+ gear."

My Setup: 10.5:1, No stall yet, 650 cfm carb, no headers yet, 2.73 gears....

How does that make sense.....

Thanks

Minnesota Guy

Hey, Sounds like you have stock motor with 110k miles? Factory pistons? They are nowhere close to 10.5 compression ratio. 8-8.5 is real world....Like a 440 Pickup for towing, with your 4500-5000lbs and 2.76 gears...Anything large in a cam will turn it further into a pooch. Comp Xtreme energy cams are good....You need torque in this sled and not High end HP....I wouldnt go any bigger than their 268 Xtreme energy--In fact I would take the one just below it. Unless you get some 3:91-4.10 gears and a 9.5 dynamic street converter..You have cruiser..

70newport

okay im still learning so this very well could be true but why would the stickers on the inside of the fender and everything else i have read say 10.5:1.... im not saying your wrong just trying to understand.

Thanks!

Silverick

I had a '68 C Body, years ago. I installed a factory 11" (10 3/4") torque coverter and a 3.23 Sure Grip. Big difference! And I think that most of the difference came from the converter.

Minnesota Guy

70 Newport, waht do you mean by a "sticker" on the inside fender? Is this the original motor? Was it originally a 2bbl? There were no 10.5:1 383's...383 Roadrunner in 69 was 10:1 and that in "real world was 9-9.5:1. 440 6 pack motors were advertised at 10:5:1 but ion real world..they were only 9:5:1 from the factory--this is because the head chambers were always bigger than advertised, along with the deck heights of the blocks. Run a compression gauge...If you are sitting at 120-130lbs per cylinder--You are 8:1 in real world....Do you have a rebuilt engine with different pistons? They would need to come out of the deck to get near 10:1 .You have to do a lot of milling to heads and block to get "advertised" compression ratios.

70newport

Minnesota Guy, i do apologize for me being stupid as your trying to help me it is a factory motor was a 2 bbl and is now 4 bbl since my factory 2 bbl needed to be replaced. in my owners manual from 1968 ( very proud to say i have the original with the car) says that it is 10.0:1 with the 4bbl 9.5 with the 2 bbl. i will get a compression gauge on it this week and keep you guys posted. the fender tag is slightly worn and it says 10 something i thought it was 10.5.

thanks guys. sorry for confusion.

Minnesota Guy

Hi 70 Newport,

I have seen alot of these apart...You have real world 8:1 compression. Unless someone milled the heads. Plus you will need different valve springs since factory 2bbl are single springs. Unless someone changed them. Go no bigger than an X Energy 268 cam. You should consider 323 or 355 gears as well and a converter with more stall. Dynamic makes excellent converters. Their 9.5 will give a lot more stall and still lock up fully on the street. Best of both worlds. 276 gears wont work.

70newport

This is very much appreciated. I will start with gears instead. I have built drift cars with tons of power but never focused on getting this car much quicker than stock.

if i do this in stages will i be okay running that 9.5 stall with my current setup and a set of gears then do cam and springs later?

Minnesota Guy

Yep, but call Dynamic and tell the guy what you have...they are very friendly and will build it for your specs..have you thought about finding a 440?

gunnerman

that camquest was cool