Jogbehle1

Well I've done some looking and have seen a great amount of debate on keeping a 6V system or converting to a 12V... Thoughts?

-The joy of these older rigs (I'm working on a 56) is the sheer simplicity of what's under the hood... for me to rewire the whole truck isn't that daunting. so that's a pro. (plus new wires are nice and shiny )

-I'm NOT planning on running anything in/on the truck that isn't moderately stock... so there isn't need for higher voltage conversion that I can see (possibly a new starter but that would be it)

-It seems 12V is easier to find... and cheaper??


But before I can act on those... I'm having difficulty figuring out which one I have lol. I know that around mid to late 50s most of the companies starting converting to your typical 12V system, so how do I determine what I have? There was no battery when I got the truck.

DDodger

Look and see what it has for various bulbs

I think it depends

on what condition the wiring is in

on how original you would keep it

and how much you want it to be dependable.

Remember, people actually DROVE 6v vehicles!!! I'm old enough to remember them!! My Dad used to have older 6V mostly pickups up until I was in high school. Drove them to work every day. We used to routinely see winter lows below zero F and while the thing didn't ALWAYS start in that weather it mostly did!!

There is no doubt that finding 6V bulbs and so on is more difficult nowadays. Once it's done, though, just how many do you figure you'll need to replace?

Jogbehle1

Makes sense....

Where I live it'll dip into low 30s at night maybe a few weeks... so not worried about cold starting.

Dependability is obviously important, I'm making this not for a show truck (why tow something you can drive n enjoy?!?!) but also not road tripping in it haha. So I can probably swing both ways there... good call on the bulbs I didn't even think about that implication. Do they make replica 12V bulbs that fit into this big 'ol holes up front??

RacerHog

I Agree.... 6 Volt is workable.... Work with what you got at the moment.. Get it up and running.
Battery, Bulbs... You can always convert it later on down the road if needed...
You will have some Good times cruising the streets of Bako !!!!... Stop at Zingos for a bit too eat and run down the street of good old Buck Owen's Blvd.. Take that old girl out on Weedpatch Hwy and blow the dust off the old girl... Than Cruise on out to Oildale for some good old Round-Round !!!!


Keep us posted.... Welcome to the site....

Rooty

I'd leave it six volts but I would check the existing wire for deterioration very closely. Take a section of wire that conveys the higher loads and peel back a bit of insulation to see if the underlying strands are still bright copper color. If they are more on the brown side that means surface degradation and loss of "load carrying" ability. It's the wrap and contact of the individual strands in the wires that gives wires the ability to handle amperage. Some wires may require changing especially the charge and high load wires. Six volt systems were not very efficient on power usage and the associated bulbs and rehostats were power hogs. While your at it check your connectors and joints for corrosion and deterioration especially battery cables and headlight connectors. Nothing wrong with six volt systems except the availability of parts. Above all, clean all ground points thoroughly and maybe add a couple extras to boot. To determine the actual voltage remove one headlight and note the voltage printed on the back side.

DDodger

Don't know where you got this but it is incorrect

While "a few thousands" of corrosion on the outside of a conductor will "somewhat" reduce wire size, it's not going to effect the overall thickness of the strand. But the "contact between strands" IS NOT what affects load ability. You could take a wire apart and string the wire strands out on the table individually, and they would conduct just as well.

THERE MIGHT (probably is) deterioration right in the crimp / soldered ends, that is a different matter.

Biggest thing with old wiring is corrosion right at the crimp terminals, and significant damage from acid on the main cables. The last factor is the condition of the insulation, which is often cloth

Rooty

As an industrial milwright and electrician I can honestly tell you that the total of the number of strands in direct contact give the wire the ability to carry certain amperages. Take a look at welding wire, one strand won't carry more than 5 amps, 100 strands of 22ga wrapped together will handle 300 amps or more. Come back and talk to me when you get your electrical license. If you think copper deteriorates only at the ends, consider this, a supply and load attached to either end creates the total resistance at the center point of the carrier first and thats where electrical energy is converted to heat energy. Poor contact between the strand results in some strands carrying more load, thus more heat rather than a load being carried over all strands. To understand better, thing of a wire cable made up of many strands and as the individual strands break the total cable becomes weaker and subject to total failure. You won't break the copper wire but you may cause focused overheating in select spots as the resistance increases and is being carried by less strands. Your crimped connectors are not in direct contact with every strand in the wire, it's the side contact between the strands that distributes the total load and corroded wires do not make very good contact.

DDodger

I'm not going to argue with you. Go back to school. "Contact between strands" is a joke. THAT IS NOT how conductors "work"

Jogbehle1

Alright boys keep it civil lol we are all on the same team here.

I spoke to some guys that do professional restoration and they said if I have to re-wire anyways might as well do a conversion over. They will be getting me a good deal on a complete wiring harness, so I'll be doing that.

What can I do for an alternator? If it's just a standard 12V battery... and I'm not planning on installing any accessories immediately (and even then maybe just a radio). Can I just go to a junk yard and scrap one off of an f150 Triton or something? (Since the '56 is a v8 get an alternator off of another v8).

RacerHog

Or check into having your generator converted.. Looks cool and not much changing... Well at least till you do and engine conversation.... Lol

Woolie

I know this is an old thread but a '56 would already have the 12 volt system.

RacerHog

True...