Building 225 /6 for pick up
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Building 225 /6 for pick up
Morning first post I realize most here build for speed, I am looking for advice on how to build the 225 for torque and high milage, What I have to work on is a 83
D-150 with /6 225 compleat with a connecting rod demon trying to hammer his way out of there.Tranny is 4 on the floor with overdrive.
I found one /6 in a boneyard, but it is a Super-Six, so glommed on to it!Decking the block and shaving the heads seem a given, what about cam for this application? Comp Cam's 264s? or standard or other?
How about valves?, use the existing and three angle/backcut or 1.70/1.44's?
rocker arms? Exhaust? Other considerations? Again this isn't being built to rabbit!Overkill isn't necessary , but doing this twice would be a bummer!
Thanks
robert
D-150 with /6 225 compleat with a connecting rod demon trying to hammer his way out of there.Tranny is 4 on the floor with overdrive.
I found one /6 in a boneyard, but it is a Super-Six, so glommed on to it!Decking the block and shaving the heads seem a given, what about cam for this application? Comp Cam's 264s? or standard or other?
How about valves?, use the existing and three angle/backcut or 1.70/1.44's?
rocker arms? Exhaust? Other considerations? Again this isn't being built to rabbit!Overkill isn't necessary , but doing this twice would be a bummer!
Thanks
robert
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Hey Rob ,
I'm no expert or even mechanic for that matter but i've built one ' leaning tower of power ' & thinking about another .
We had a few drama's , firstly we got another motor to build so i could still run the car , when this was getting machined the crank was found to be worn so i stripped the crank from the original donk & i cant remember exactly but there was something with differances between the depth of the hole for the input shaft??
. Got the crank machined up then when we were dummy assembling , it all seemed fine , until it came to the harmonic balancer , it would'nt go all the way home , missed by bout 5mm , lucky we even checked it then LOL . So the crank had to come out for another machining this time off the nose .
There's a few diffrences between a 3 welsh plug motor & 5 , becareful , dont mix'n'match .
Plus the block had to be taken out 60thou cause of a bad previous bore job . I pretty much left the head alone cept for having it setup for unleaded /stainless valves etc , which i found out later was unessicary cause of the high nickel content in chrysler heads . This was a part of the build where i started to get cheap ( head ) as i had another car stolen & needed the Val , anyway a good set of roller rockers on a shaft and some good head work should go along way as those tappets can be a pain & if there's any wear on'em their a nightmare , always goin out . As for Valve sizes and stuff i would'nt know ???
& i went for a cam that you blokes may not have heard of , the same specs as a Aussie Valiant VF Pacer , has a nice idle & is not too wild , think she revved around the 6 grand mark. Exhaust i just ran a single 2inch with extractors ,but there was a dude on here talkin about a dual system , think that'd sound wild .
I Ran a 350 holley properly jetted for the slant with the proper kickdown cable bracket ( auto ) as the standard one just did'nt cut it , standard carb was an OK performer but the rebuild kits were worth a fortune .
But you could go better , either tripples or injection , hell you could even go turbo .
About the only other thing i can think of is a good electronic ignition setup , this was easily the best improvement with noticable gains .
Least you've got the 4speed
BTW seen a good article on the Slant by Mopar Action or similar .
I'm no expert or even mechanic for that matter but i've built one ' leaning tower of power ' & thinking about another .
We had a few drama's , firstly we got another motor to build so i could still run the car , when this was getting machined the crank was found to be worn so i stripped the crank from the original donk & i cant remember exactly but there was something with differances between the depth of the hole for the input shaft??
. Got the crank machined up then when we were dummy assembling , it all seemed fine , until it came to the harmonic balancer , it would'nt go all the way home , missed by bout 5mm , lucky we even checked it then LOL . So the crank had to come out for another machining this time off the nose . There's a few diffrences between a 3 welsh plug motor & 5 , becareful , dont mix'n'match .Plus the block had to be taken out 60thou cause of a bad previous bore job . I pretty much left the head alone cept for having it setup for unleaded /stainless valves etc , which i found out later was unessicary cause of the high nickel content in chrysler heads . This was a part of the build where i started to get cheap ( head ) as i had another car stolen & needed the Val , anyway a good set of roller rockers on a shaft and some good head work should go along way as those tappets can be a pain & if there's any wear on'em their a nightmare , always goin out . As for Valve sizes and stuff i would'nt know ???
& i went for a cam that you blokes may not have heard of , the same specs as a Aussie Valiant VF Pacer , has a nice idle & is not too wild , think she revved around the 6 grand mark. Exhaust i just ran a single 2inch with extractors ,but there was a dude on here talkin about a dual system , think that'd sound wild .
I Ran a 350 holley properly jetted for the slant with the proper kickdown cable bracket ( auto ) as the standard one just did'nt cut it , standard carb was an OK performer but the rebuild kits were worth a fortune .
But you could go better , either tripples or injection , hell you could even go turbo .About the only other thing i can think of is a good electronic ignition setup , this was easily the best improvement with noticable gains .
Least you've got the 4speed
BTW seen a good article on the Slant by Mopar Action or similar .
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