furysrule

I have a '67 Fury III with a '76 318 engine. When I installed this engine I changed to the electronic ignition setup that came with the engine. Occasionally, especially after the car has not been used for several days, it will turn over and over and not fire. Then after the third or fourth try, when I release the key to the run position, all of a sudden it is running.
I believe the problem lies in the part of the system that bypasses the resistor during the start up procedure (it's not getting power intermittently) but I am not sure how this is accomplished. The module, distributor and pick up coil as well as the key switch (used spare) and ballast resistor have been replaced. Once running, the car runs very well. Any info on how this part of the starting phase is powered will be greatly appreciated.
John R

TVLynn

Sounds like a problem with the ign switch itself. But Check the connections on the ballast resistor too.

moe7404

on the chrysler electronic ignition ALL WAYS carry 2 ballast resisters in the glove box.

440roadrunner

The bypass circuit (IGN2) is a separate circuit (contact) in the ignition switch, brown, and only goes one place.........from the switch, through the bulkhead, to the + side of the coil electrically. It originally went to the coil + side of the ballast resistor.

Also, the "run" circuit (IGN1, dark blue) goes dead when the key is twisted to start, so the bypass circuit is the only thing which supplies ignition

Since this is a conversion, it might have been spliced, or otherwise become of left disconnected

Just put a voltmeter on the coil+ terminal and crank the engine. You should get "same as battery." In no case should you get less than 10V

Some other checkpoints............

Make absolutely sure that the ECU is grounded

Pull all connectors, the ECU, the ballast, and the distributor, and work them in/ out to scrub the terminals and to feel for connector tightness. Inspect the terminals inside with a light for corrosion.

The dist. connector is especially suspect because there is so little current through it.

Check the dist. reluctor / pickup for strike damage and debri or rust. Check the reluctor gap with a brass feeler --- available at O'Reallys at .008"--that's inches, not metric

Rig your voltmeter to the disconnected distributor connector on low AC that's right, AC volts and crank the engine. The dist. should generate about 1V AC

furysrule

Thank you for your responses.They have been most helpful.
John R