Havn't posted in a while but just came up on an important decision I have to make. I have the chance to buy a complete '77 440, pulled from a '67 charger (or so he says), to drop into my '69 Polara coupe. I already have a '69 383 that has ben rebuilt some years ago, and is missing some parts such as starter, distributor, fuel pump, balancer, intake manifold, carb...all of which I was planning on buying new. But the 440 already has everything and was rebuilt only a couple years ago. My first concern, being a weekend warrior mechanic and not having a whole lot of time to research since my window of buying is so small, is if the thing will even fit in my car, or accept the 727 TF that came with my car. I would assume it would but I really don't know.

My intentions are to spray nitrous (big like 200-250), but just to run around the street and strip on, no professional racing or anything, just big fun! Anyways, I'm not sure what heads are on the 440, but the 906 heads on the 383 are already p&p'd and reworked, so I would assume that swapping them would be in order? I guess I just need some reassurance that I'm doing the right thing by scracthing the 383 for the 440. I mean all the parts I need to complete the 383 will be more than the cost of the whole 440, I just want to know what could go wrong if anything because of the nitrous. Please help!

 

First find out which 440 you have. There are three differant ones. A Big Rod Steel crank, A small rod Steel Crank and a Cast Crank. The first two would be fine with NOS but I would not use a Cast Crank with NOS. You existing 727 trans should work but the converter may need to be changed depending on which 440 you have.

 

How do I find that out?

 

The cast crank motor will have a thick beveled damper. The Large rod Steel crank will have a thick counter weighted non-beveled damper and the small rod steel crank will have a thinner non-counter weighted damper.

 

BUY the 440... 250 hp shot on stock motor, things like to go BOOM. Money would be better spent to build a nice 500hp stroker motor

 

So your saying I should just use the internals from the 440 in the 383? I really want the nitrous though, I like the ability to have extra hp on the spot and only guzzle gas when the motor needs it (relatively speaking). Although I only ever had nos on efi mustangs, so maybe a carb'd motor sucks gas just the same? Not sure how that works. Guess my best bet would be to stop by the local speed shop and discuss my options. Ive heard keep the 383 because of short stroke, heard 440 because of strength, and then heard 440 internals to 383 block makes like 421 or something like that but is supposed to scream so... if I could I'd pay more than 2 cents for yalls 2 cents, I would.

 

Btw, 500hp probably not gonna cut it for me. Been there done that, need bigger!

 

OK how about a 500" RB Street master 680 hp kit $12,175.00 use you block

 

You sure? According to the dyno i put my car on, my some what built 440 only put 420 to the crank and 370 to the wheels and it runs 11.30s-11.50s all day long through the exhaust.

So you better be bookin it in the car that had 500hp

 

I was...fully rebuilt 1995 Mustang with built 327 stroker and Vortech sq supercharger, put down 500+ at the rear wheel. But the reason for the post is to help me out with configuring the best nitrous motor with what I have to work with between the two motors. Anything can be swapped, heads, crank...whatever. I just figured ask the guys that know the most about it. Not asking yall to try and discredit the things I'm saying. I had a 500+hp Mustang...now I want bigger.

 

How fast did it go on the 1/4? Mph? 60ft?

I wasn't trying to discredit you. I was only asking if you had a "guess" on hp, or if you did in fact dyno it. 500 to the wheels is alot.

 

I never took it to the strip, I bought it semi built from someone who had a ricer body kit on it and couldnt show my face in public with that crap so I just took out guys on the streets...with the tinted windows all the way up, lol. Btw, it was a 347, not 327...my bad.

But I ended up spending a day doing some research and found that although many people think the later 440 is thin walled they are mistaken. On top of that, I ended up getting the 440 with thicker saddle supports, larger cooling ports and larger crank, probably from a truck or motor home. So I came up with an idea to max bore the block (.55), use dome pistons and keep stock crank but replace stock internals with forged, keep my rebuilt pnp'd 906 heads, hefty cam, use solid roller lifters and light weight steel roller rockers. The motor comes with torker intake but I still think the Edlebrock RPM is the best choice. If anyone sees any problems with this idea or has some advice on what to do differently, I'm listening. Don't forget about the nitrous!

Btw, I know 906 are open chamber and a closed chamber would be better for making higher compression but I am on somewhat of a budget, so using what I have just makes sense financially. But if the numbers are worth the money, maybe aluminum or some other oem closed chamber head would be considered.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2504536/1995-ford-mustang

 

And yes, it was dyno'd at Ramsey's in Tampa, Mustang specialists.

 

Hey 69, my son is a member of the darkside, a Mustang fanatic but WOW-WEE I don't think he would drive that car. Back to reality and Chrysler, if your boring .055" and with the cylinder pressure your after I'd get the block sonic tested. I think your rods are your weak point and H beams are needed, maybe even aluminum which will cushion and flex before breaking when you inject the heroin.