Need engine, what to do?

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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #2  
scotts74birds's Avatar
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From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Define "tired". First I'd start by performing a compression test and using a vacuum gauge to assess the general state of the motor. Lots of info to be found with these before you even spend a dime. I guess I'm just saying do your homework first. Try this to start and see how much you can find with your motor. http://www.visn2.com/UsingVacumeGauge.html

Last edited by scotts74birds; Aug 1, 2009 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #3  
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From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
You didnt say how many miles were on it or any mods so far. 300hp is not unreasonable, but what do you use it for? My guess is forget hp#s, what you want is torque for pulling, plowing and off road? If thats the case there are some truck guys here that have already done this and can walk you through it. Welcome and good luck.
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 04:58 AM
  #4  
78D200's Avatar
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From: Goffstown, NH
Scooty is right, perform a compression test and see what you have across the cylinders. What do you use this truck for primaly?
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:45 AM
  #6  
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From: Goffstown, NH
What you want is torque for towing and wheeling. It sounds like the heads could use a rebuild (these motors are known for that over time). The best thing you could do is to rebuilt it or get one from a junk yard and rebuild that one so that you can still drive it for now. I'd look into a good RV/towing cam for the motor and swap on a 4 barrel carb and edelbrock intake. find some short tube headers (or the shortest long tube headers) that you can as they will give you better low end numbers, upgrade the ignition with a better coil, wires and maybe dizzy. While the motor is out, maybe think about pulling the torque convertor and installing a B&M tork master convetor or something simular around a 1,200 RPM stall rating. Also, if you have nothing int he rear end, think about installing a locker or sure grip (limited slip, posi, etc.)
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:04 AM
  #8  
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From: Goffstown, NH
Since you are pulling the motor out, it would be a good idea just to replace all the bearings and rings. Last thing you want to it put all this money and time into the motor just to have to pull it back out because of a worn bearing or a ring lets go, thats just me though. I forgot you have a manual behind it, for that I would go with a really good performance clutch. I know that Centerforce clutches can be pricey but i had a CFII clutch in my 92 dakota and that thing was great. Maybe look into something like that. I'm sure that other people here have had great luck with other clutches as well.
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 10:49 PM
  #11  
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From: Springfield NE
good deal. 140 is a good number for the compression on that motor.
I'd stick with the regular 318, they made about 12 million of them. The poly would be harder to fix if something broke.
BTW, my bud gave me a 318 cause he was cleaning out his storage. I popped the valve cover, not one spec of crud. 318's easy to find.
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