Hey all.

First time rebuilding an engine and I am doing it on an extremely tight budget. Years ago I purchased a 66 Coronet body and a 426 street wedge from a yard and just now have the garage to work on them. I’m focusing on getting the engine running, not for drag or top performance, just running to ride/play with. The engine was purchased dis-assembled with most of the major parts included (block, heads, intake and exhaust manifold, old Holley carb, crank, cams, pistons, timing chain, old distributor...). I’m in the process of cleaning the engine and checking for cracks/wear&tear and am not planning on getting anything milled/honed/bored. I will be getting new gaskets and all new bolts to be on the safe side. Looking over the pistons I noticed two of them are cracked with chunks of metal missing between the piston rings and are surely not usable.

So my question is, can I purchase only two stand alone pistons to match the set I already have and if so, where do I look? I know purchasing a whole new set of pistons is pricey and a mis-matched set can throw everything off from balance to head spacing. All the connecting rods and bearings appear to be good. The cast number on the piston reads “2465533”. Cast number on the block is "2532230" and the cast number on the head is "2843906".

Thanks in advance.

 

Bore it and put new pistons in it, the pistons are broken from disassembly due to ring ridge. You would have to find pistons exactly like the ones that came out or you could damage the new ones with the ring ridge at the top of the cinder.

Cheap is one thing but if you don't fix it you wont have much when you get done.

 

A set of stock replacement pistons are not that expensive DO it right the first time instead of having to spend more money at a later date.. I did that once on a 400 my (father in law) Put rings in it and it burned oil real bad. Had to redo it, spent the $$ out of my own pocket for it didn't tell him what spent...

 

Ill run the micrometer through the cylinder. If they only have a ridge then I can ream it out but I would still be left with the problem of finding two replacement pistons.

So the best thing to do would be bore and hone the cylinders and drop in a "new" set of pistons? Maybe 440 pistons?

 

If I choose to machine the block, how much larger of a piston can I drop in?

What factors to I have to take into account if I upgrade the pistons? Do I need to get a new crank, etc...?

 

Before you spend any money on the motor it would be wise to find out if it's worth any investment at all. A good machine shop can tell you if it's at it's limit for boring out. They can also magna flux the block for cracks and check the cylinder wall thickness. If it's near the end of it's life sleeving is possible but very expensive and may hardly be worth the investment, if it has minute cracks it's toast. A good machine shop will match the bore they make with the right size rings and pistons but you had best be schooled on the installation of mains, rod bearings and wrist bearings if you wish to install them yourself. We are talking the entire rotating assembly here and it's only as good and reliable as it's weakest point. I see no cheap, reliable way of assembling the motor - even the lifters and cam will require renewing. I suppose you could just slap it together and hope for the best but the best you may get is an hour, day, week or whatever. Perhaps in the big scheme of things you'd be best to find a good running 440 or another 426.

 

Yea, Ive been searching around local machine shops that provide those services and have decided not to spend any money until I have them check everything out.

 

Yep... Hot tank.... Clean.... Check..... First !!!!

 

Did the older model 440's that were put in trucks/RV's have any performance? Are they different from the 440's that were put into performance cars of the same era? Im sure that all 440's didnt perform the same.

Will a 440 fit into the engine compartment of a 66 Dodge Coronet?

 

No.... Yes... True.... Yes......

 

As Bob said A 440 would be right at home in a Coronet. RV motors usually had lower compression, still a very good basis if you are going to rebuild

 

I do like the idea of stroking a 440 out down the road; since time and money are restricting me atm. So if I want to go the route of 440 engine, where should I look and what should I look for? Pulling a 440/6pak out of a magic hat will be expensive, Im sure. So what other 440 can I drop into the Coronet that will still get me a little power now and be able to give a performance upgraded at a later time? I dont want to get an engine now and it turns out I got the wrong one and am stuck with a 150hp paperweight.

 

Earlier than 72 will have more compression but the chance of finding one in good shape is slim. The 76 - 78 with the 452 head's is a good choice after a set of piston's. The 8.2 compression is the limiting factor of this choice, but you can make power with it and the 452 head is a good choice. If you're 426 has closed chamber head's you could use them and get the compression up. The cast crank in the latter block shouldn't be a problem before you put a stroker in it. If you build a 446 or 452 you can use the 426 crank, just balance the assembly.

 

This is a nice little easy on the wallet build.....


http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...ack-to-basics/


Have fun.... Keep us posted....

 

And with some basic bowl work, 1.81 and 2.14 valves the hp and tq numbers will be over 500.

 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/in...topic=104749.0

 

I'm glad you found that, shows initiative and should answer some of your not yet asked questions.

This engine would do even better with a modern cam profile over the old 509.

 

Back in the 80s a good friend of mine and engine builder built me a 452 , .060 over 440, using TRW forged pistons ( low compression replacements) shaved the deck and cut the head's to get 9.5 compression ratio.

I reassembled the motor after his death and put it on the dyno the thing made 520 hp at 5600 and 543 tq @ 4500. It's the motor in my avatar so don't tell me you can't make power with 452 head's and low compression!

This thing ideals at 750 rpm!!!!!

Light weight pistons and 2 point's in compression this thing would be over 600 hp!!

It's a testament to a great engine builder.

 

I'll Drink Too That !!!!!!!!!

 

Been talking around town and might have found a mid-70's running 440 with trans from a guy. He said it runs dry, not sure what that means. I dont remember how many miles he said were on it though . He is also gonna keep an eye out for anyone who wants to buy the 426.

If the engine and trans came out of a truck or RV, is there anything I should worry about with putting into the car? I read somewhere that the truck transmissions cant/shouldnt be used in cars. Cant remember the reason why though. The Coronet Im putting the engine in has stock/original axles and driveshaft.

 

Rebuild the 426 be done with it.