O.K. I just got my 440 back and it was ported , polished, honed ect..Now keep in mind I have never put one together but as I took it apart I took about 225 pictures with my I -Pad as I started taking one peace at a time off as well as saving every nut and bolt in a zip bag labeled...SO NOW its time to put it back together and my Question is what kind of lube do I use?

 

Raycan2,

I commend you on facing the challenge ahead of you with open arms. Glad that you took lots of pics prior and labeled items and placed them in plastic bags. You probably will need a 440 engine manual or something to that effect in order to know how much torque should be given to bolts in any given area.
If it's possible you many want to see if you have a friend who's a real-good mechanic/engine builder to over-see your progress. You really don't want to make any mistakes putting the engine together. You won't find out about them until its complete.

I'm sorry I can't help you out regarding the lube but I'm sure someone much wiser that I will post here soon with that info.

Though I have never built an engine myself I've been told to use new bolts/washers etc. on a rebuild. I think you can purchase all the bolts necessary from ARP for about $200. I personally like their bolt quality.

Lastly, whatever you decide keep us posted on your progress and include a pic for us!

Good luck!

 

I have bought 2 of them Mopar rebuild books and have read both of them from front to back just to keep things fresh in my mind...and I also have taken a highlighter and marked down notes..I do have a friend that can help that has built 440s before and like he said TAKE YOUR TIME AND CHECK EVERYTHING 2 times 2 times...I guess I could ask him on the lube as well.

 

Nice, on all accounts; books, highlights, and friend! If possible, perhaps the two of you can make this a weekend project over several weekends? Beer and pizza can go a long way

Are you building the 440 back to stock form, slightly modded, or Weekend Warrier?! APX HP?

 

I would use some type of Molly assembly lube. Make sure you use a High zinc content oil Like BradPenn 10/40 Install the crank and mains make sure it turns easy. Install the pistons MAKE sure to align the ring gaps - should be picture in the book, use a 6" length of fuel hose over the rod bolts to protect the crank journals. Buy a click type torque wrench if you don't have one or borrow one.. Double check everything The rear main rope seal is easy to install be careful The best of mechanics can sometimes get a leak follow directions If your gasket set comes with a rubber seal Offset the parting line, just a dab of silicon on either type- mating joint The side seals need to be dipped in diesel fuel & quickly installed Also A dab of silicon in the corners of the block

 

Make certain you get the oil gallery plugs in. Be certain to get the O ring and gasket on the snout of the oil pump mount

I've never used assembly lube, only oil, except for the cam lifters. On the cam/ lifters, follow the cam maker's advice, or look up someone like Comp Cams website and look for their tech library for break in destructions. You may have to break in the cam with weaker springs and change the springs later. You DEFINATELY want a special cam break in lube on the wearing faces of the lifters and liberally on the cam lobes

Properly prime the oil pump. Get or make yourself an oil pump priming shaft - to be run with a drill. (These turn counter clockwise)

I usually start with no filter, and it should take about 1/2 second to get oil out the filter mount. Fill the filter and mount, then "if suspect" rig a hose to the oil sender hole and run the hose into the top of the head, etc, and prime until you get a good flow out of that, then install the sender or gauge.

Now you'll have to (preferably two people) turn the crank until the cam holes line up on each side, to get oil out the rocker shafts.

Be absolutely sure to double check all clearances. This is pretty much in the shop manual. Do you have one?

Plastigauge is STILL a viable way of double checking clearances, sort of a "final" check

Be sure to check your valve adjustment. If you do not have adjustable rockers, ADA you have the factory non -adjustable, check anyway. If you've milled the deck or heads, and depending on head and valve work, valve clearance will not be correct. You either need custom length pushrods, adjustable pushrods, or adjustable rockers.

Check valve clearance at the backside of the cam, NOT TDC on the piston. Check valve to piston clearance if you've installed high compression pistons, milled the deck or heads, or a big cam. Minimum clearance is NOT at TDC. Google--lots of procedure on the www here

Same deal with degreeing the cam -- do so. Again, cam manufacturers or Google is a help here. Summit sells a nice kit with a degree wheel, piston stop, and dial indicator which anyone should have anyway.

Be sure to run a tap through all block threads to clean out debri and rust.

Take particular care with the rear main seal

Take particular care, because of cam break in, to get engine ready to immediately fire.

Get a good working carb, prime with fuel. A number of ways to to that. If the vehicle fuel system is suspect (old tank, etc) rig a safe can above, gravity feed to the carb.

Be sure coolant is full and bled.Always fill by leaving the heater hose nearest the stat disconnected, fill 'till you "get water" then hook the hose up to the engine but not the heater end. Continue to fill either until rad is full or heater "gets water," and hook up last hose

Get the timing set static at about 15-20*. If you need help with this post back. You can also set timing "on the starter."

When starting check all of above, generally make sure engine is ready to FIRE. You do NOT want to be grinding away on the starter -- which can hurt a new cam.

Follow manf. destructions for cam break in, which generally means bringing engine IMMEDIATELY to about 2K for 15-20 minutes.