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Old 03-07-2014, 11:36 PM
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Transmission question

I have a 1973 Dart Sport. Had a slant 6 in it, the guy I bought it from put a 1968 318 in it. It has some transmission problems, he lost the return spring off of the kickdown linkage, and it doesn't have reverse. I just found a guy in my town that has two 727 tourqueflight transmissions that came out of late 70's pickup trucks. He wants 200 each obo. I have never been a dodge man until now. I don't know much about the differences in the transmissions. Would a 727 tourqueflight bolt right up to my 1968 318 engine? Are there size differences? Is it worth it considering they came out of pickup trucks?

On a side note, he also has two engines for sale. A 360, and a 440. He want's 700 for the 360, and 800 for the 440. Are these prices reasonable? Both engines would need rebuilding. I was always a chevy man, and my general rule of thumb when it came to buying worn out engines was to spend a dollar a cubic inch. Does the same rule apply with mopar? Thanks for the help guys.
Old 03-08-2014, 05:27 AM
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Big and Small Blocks have different bellhousing bolt patterns.

360 pricey unless it is running in a vehicle with few miles.

440 only if it's an HP version, even so I like to here them run if not must know the history or it's a rebuildable core for 2-400.00 dollars.
Old 03-09-2014, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Coronet 500
Big and Small Blocks have different bellhousing bolt patterns.

360 pricey unless it is running in a vehicle with few miles.

440 only if it's an HP version, even so I like to here them run if not must know the history or it's a rebuildable core for 2-400.00 dollars.
That's pretty much what I was thinking as far as not being able to hear the engines run. I'll probably stay away from the engines, but what do you think about the 727 transmission that was bolted up to the 360? Do you think it's worth $200.00? I just recently started becoming a Mopar guy, so I really don't know much about the 904 or the 727, but would I run into any issues replacing my 904 bolted up to a 318, with a 727? I realize that being off of a truck, I'm sure the transmission is geared differently. Are the 727's better than the 904's? And would the just "bolt on," or will I need to find different linkage somewhere?

On a side note, are the 727's also 3 speed autos?
Old 03-09-2014, 06:21 AM
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http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmis...-tom-hand.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TorqueFlite

http://www.carcraft.com/newlook/crc_...s/viewall.html
Old 03-09-2014, 09:37 AM
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727 would bolt right in with a few exceptions. Drive shaft will need to be shortened, 360 balance weight on the converter will need to be removed to work on your 318.
On Your trans I would check the band adjustment and drop the pan to check the strut rod that holds the band in place - strut could be broken or the band itself could be broken

360 core motor is worth $100 440 core motor worth $200-600depending on year
Old 03-09-2014, 09:38 AM
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Some things about used transmissions.

First, if you look on Youtube, there's a series of about 20 videos on rebuild which are very well done

You should consider buying the book by Munroe

and download / get yourself a shop manual

Transmission info

Check these links

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=226812

Download shop manuals at Mymopar:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

and this thread

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...p?p=1970088617

What you need to be aware of:

Mopar made basically two transmission types, A-904, and the larger A-727

The 904 has what amounts to a "square" pan, but the 727 has a bulge on the passenger side, easily seen by looking under a car from the pass. side

http://www.oocities.org/motorcity/23...ns/904-727.JPG

Ma made EITHER to fit a small block, but the larger 904 is a bit longer and uses a different slip yoke, so if swapping one to the other, you need to change the driveshaft

IF YOU have a console shifter, the transmission rear housing must have the bottom bracket cast into the trans. Not all had these

Watch out for earlier transmissions which used a cable shifter, and older had no slip yoke

Watch out for "lockup" converter transmissions. You can easily identify these by looking at the input shafts on the trans. The lockup version has a smooth area on the very end of the shaft which makes it look like a pilot bushing surface on a stick gearbox

If out of a pickup it MUST be a two wheel drive. 2x4 pickups, vans and passenger cars all used the same length tailshaft. Some heavier motorhomes and heavy trucks used a short shaft deal with no slip yoke

4x4 transmissions are easily rejected by the short, open mounting housing which mates with a transfer..............no slip yoke.

THEN you need to worry about whether it's for a slant, for a small block, for a big block, OR ANOTHER APPLICATION

Ma made torqueflites for use in postal jeeps, behind AMC engines in Jeeps, and to fit IHC such as the old Scouts. You'll have to be certain that it actually fits your smallblock.

In addition, you have to watch converters. There are different balance combos for different engines. Generally, 318 / 340 converters are "neutral balance" and 360 engines are "weighted" converters to make up for the externally balanced 360

This gets complicated, as the newer 360 / 5.9 magnums are ALSO externally balanced but are DIFFERENT balance than the older LA engines. The Magnums don't use weighted converters, they use weighted flex plates.

The older LA converters use an "oddball" bolt pattern to index the converter balance to the crank..........it only fits one way...........while the Magnums don't do that

Last edited by 440roadrunner; 03-09-2014 at 09:40 AM.
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