1965 Chrysler 300 Convertible Restoration Profile
Thread Starter
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 248
Likes: 3
From: San Gabriel, CA
1965 Chrysler 300 Convertible Restoration Profile
Enjoy....photos are chronological.
---------- Post added at 08:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------
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---------- Post added at 08:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------
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Thread Starter
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 248
Likes: 3
From: San Gabriel, CA
Quite a bit. Just to give you an idea, there's about $8K in the interior alone and I did all the installation except for the seat covers. C Body's aren't cheap or easy to restore. The project took a little over 4 years and was very trying at times. In the end it was worth it. The car looks and drives as if it were brand new. Then again, it basically is a brand new car.
Last edited by rexus31; Sep 6, 2010 at 06:13 AM.
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Thread Starter
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 248
Likes: 3
From: San Gabriel, CA
It's on to the final step of the restoration of my 1965 Chrysler 300 Convertible...the hubcaps. For the chrome-like portions of the medallion I will be using a product from Spaz Stix called Mirror Chrome. This product is used in the R/C car hobby to emulate chrome on R/C Car Bodies. It is designed to be applied from the back so I think (fingers crossed) it will produce a finish which should be very close to the factory finish.
http://www.spazstix.com/whatsnew.php?id=16
This is what I have to start with. All 4 are about in the same condition. The disks are in good shape; all I need to do is re-do the black stripes. The medallions are a mess but free from major cracks.
Step One:
Remove the spring ring holding the medallion in place. Using Easy Off Oven Cleaner (yellow can), remove as much of the original paint as possible. I got 99% of it off on the medallion below and I got lucky. The black paint in the "Three Hundred" grooves did not come off on this one. I won't be needing to get out the magnifying glass and the fine brush.
Step Two:
Paint the Red, White and Blue stripes on the back side of the medallion:
Step 3: Prep the surface using Spaz Stix aerosol plastic surface prep. Allow to dry per the instructions and shoot the entire backside of the medallion with Spaz Stix Ultimate Chrome (aerosol), applying several light coats until covered.
Can't do much about the crazing in the plastic. These are over 45 years old after all. The reflective properties of this paint are very good. I am expecting even greater results when I shoot a top coat of black over the Ultimate Chrome. Overall, I'm very pleased with the way they came out.
http://www.spazstix.com/whatsnew.php?id=16
This is what I have to start with. All 4 are about in the same condition. The disks are in good shape; all I need to do is re-do the black stripes. The medallions are a mess but free from major cracks.
Step One:
Remove the spring ring holding the medallion in place. Using Easy Off Oven Cleaner (yellow can), remove as much of the original paint as possible. I got 99% of it off on the medallion below and I got lucky. The black paint in the "Three Hundred" grooves did not come off on this one. I won't be needing to get out the magnifying glass and the fine brush.
Step Two:
Paint the Red, White and Blue stripes on the back side of the medallion:
Step 3: Prep the surface using Spaz Stix aerosol plastic surface prep. Allow to dry per the instructions and shoot the entire backside of the medallion with Spaz Stix Ultimate Chrome (aerosol), applying several light coats until covered.
Can't do much about the crazing in the plastic. These are over 45 years old after all. The reflective properties of this paint are very good. I am expecting even greater results when I shoot a top coat of black over the Ultimate Chrome. Overall, I'm very pleased with the way they came out.
Last edited by rexus31; Jul 15, 2010 at 10:15 AM.
