360 magnum cam question
#1
360 magnum cam question
I want to put a higher performance cam into my stock 360 magnum.
It has an Edelbrock air gap intake manifold and Edelbrock 750 carb.
The heads are stock.
The converter is stock in the auto trans.
Dual exhaust with TTI headers.
I'm looking for something rumpity but, not radical and don't want to change the stall converter.
I understand I'll need to change the springs and lifters but, I don't know what else.
Has anybody done this to thier 360 magnum?
What kind of cam kit or specs?
Thanks,
Mopar_71
It has an Edelbrock air gap intake manifold and Edelbrock 750 carb.
The heads are stock.
The converter is stock in the auto trans.
Dual exhaust with TTI headers.
I'm looking for something rumpity but, not radical and don't want to change the stall converter.
I understand I'll need to change the springs and lifters but, I don't know what else.
Has anybody done this to thier 360 magnum?
What kind of cam kit or specs?
Thanks,
Mopar_71
#2
What year 360? You same magnum and I think of a early 90s to 2001 360 that came in the trucks and Durangos.
Give Comp Cams a call and tell them the specs on your motor, tranny and stall rating and rear axle ratio and they will set you up with the perfect cam.
Edit: Fill this out - http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/C...amHelpNew.aspx
Give Comp Cams a call and tell them the specs on your motor, tranny and stall rating and rear axle ratio and they will set you up with the perfect cam.
Edit: Fill this out - http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/C...amHelpNew.aspx
#3
I contacted Comp cams before and got recommend for a cam but, I wasn't sure if I needed to change the rockers, springs and other parts.
I have learned for this magnum engine that a LA style cam will work but, it's the heads that I have to be more concerned with.
I'm told I have pedistal stlye mounts for the rockers.
The stock cam and springs suck in a stock 360 magnum engine and that explains why I can't roast the rear tires for a block or two and also why it starts to cut out around 4900-5000 rpm. Because I'm probably floating a valve.
Looks like I am leaning towards this.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=620&sb=2
Which is the whole cam, spring, lifter, chain KIT. Nice package and pretty cheap.
OR
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...d&partid=11436
with a 109 deg lobe seperation.
But, I'd like to change the rockers to rollers. Man!!! Over 7 bills from Comp.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Code=RP1322-16
I think I can use these push rods
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...d&partid=22940
With these rockers
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...d&partid=25405
So many choices....
Ahhhhh...
I'll keep you posted
I have learned for this magnum engine that a LA style cam will work but, it's the heads that I have to be more concerned with.
I'm told I have pedistal stlye mounts for the rockers.
The stock cam and springs suck in a stock 360 magnum engine and that explains why I can't roast the rear tires for a block or two and also why it starts to cut out around 4900-5000 rpm. Because I'm probably floating a valve.
Looks like I am leaning towards this.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=620&sb=2
Which is the whole cam, spring, lifter, chain KIT. Nice package and pretty cheap.
OR
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...d&partid=11436
with a 109 deg lobe seperation.
But, I'd like to change the rockers to rollers. Man!!! Over 7 bills from Comp.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Code=RP1322-16
I think I can use these push rods
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...d&partid=22940
With these rockers
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...d&partid=25405
So many choices....
Ahhhhh...
I'll keep you posted
#4
cam choice- what did end up going with?
I am working on a similar project and went with a hughes cam/ also changed Iron ram heads- I wanted ask a few questions regarding the magnum
mine came out of a 01 Ram- I am putting a 727 behind what type of flex plate or converter are u using due to the external balance of the 360?
Thanks
mine came out of a 01 Ram- I am putting a 727 behind what type of flex plate or converter are u using due to the external balance of the 360?
Thanks
#6
Joe -
Depends on what you consider a big project. With the motor in the car, you have to pull the radiator, distributor, break down the front of the block and intake manifold and replace the timing chain, and I'd consider the rockers. springs, lifters and pushrods, if they are stock.
Then you have to put it all back together.
Archer
Depends on what you consider a big project. With the motor in the car, you have to pull the radiator, distributor, break down the front of the block and intake manifold and replace the timing chain, and I'd consider the rockers. springs, lifters and pushrods, if they are stock.
Then you have to put it all back together.
Archer
#7
Big project???
So I just changed out the cam these last couple of days.
I've never done this before.
The motor is a 360 magnum engine, which is a roller engine.
I changed the cam, springs, retainers and double roller timing chain.
The stall converter, pushrods and roller lifters didn't need to be changed.
Along with new oil, filter, coolant, auto tranny fluid (if you have an auto) timing gasket set, intake gasket set and some RTV.
I also didn't need valve cover gaskets because magnum engines have re-useable ones.
You will need some uncommon tools such as spring compression tool, timing light, assembly lube, vacuum gauge, harmonic balancer puller, compressor, compression tester, small magnet, shop vac. and patience!!
Here is what I had to do:
Picking out the cam hardest job but here is what I got.
Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5.480"
.487"Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6.512"
.520"Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050"208°
214°Lobe Separation Angle107Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050"0° BTC
37° BBCIntake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050"28° ABC
-3° ATCSweet Spot: Idle to 5500 RPM
I needed to change the springs and retainers.
Installed Height/Pressure: 1.660"--120#
Pressure @ .450" lift: 280#
Pressure @ .500" lift: 300#
Pressure @ .550" lift: 310#
Coil Bind: .620" lift
Outer Spring ID/OD: 1.033"/1.440"
Type of Spring:Single w/ damper
This may not be in order and I might have forgot something, but you get the idea. It's a lot to read but, nobody is making you read it if you don't want to.
Drain the coolant into a responsible type container and remove upper hose.
Disconnect the battery.
Disconnect the trany lines to radiator and capture the fluid or plug the connections.
Remove the radiator after removing lower hose from water pump.
Remove the alt, fan, PS and AC if you have it.
Remove water pump, hoses, fuel line, carb linkage, kick down cable, vacuum hoses, spark plugs, distrubutor cap.
Remove crank pully and pull the harmonic balancer.
Remove fuel pump (if it's not electric) then the timing cover.
Remove the intake manifold and carb as one unit.
Rotate the engine to TDC of cylinder #1. Note the distrubutor position.
Remove the distributor and gear to the oil pump.
Remove valve covers, rocker arms, push rods, and lifters.
If you plan on leaving the heads on while changing the springs like I did, I used the compression tester fitting and compressor to keep the valves in place while changing the srings and retainers.
Remove cam cover and oil plug. Pull cam.
Scrape all dirt or gasket material from sealing surfaces with a razor and shop vacuum to catch the stuff from getting into your motor.
I did everything in reverse when installing, keeping all the parts in labeled bags and boxes that showed which lifter, pushrods and other parts went for ease of assembly. Taking pictures before disassembly helps too.
Alone, it took me 2 days and 16 hours of labor. I might be a little bit more detailed in my work because I don't want to loose anything or screw up.
It started right up with no leaks.
Total cost of parts was about 650.00 (MOPARS are expensive!)
If anyone has any questions about this project I'll be happy to anyswer...
I've never done this before.
The motor is a 360 magnum engine, which is a roller engine.
I changed the cam, springs, retainers and double roller timing chain.
The stall converter, pushrods and roller lifters didn't need to be changed.
Along with new oil, filter, coolant, auto tranny fluid (if you have an auto) timing gasket set, intake gasket set and some RTV.
I also didn't need valve cover gaskets because magnum engines have re-useable ones.
You will need some uncommon tools such as spring compression tool, timing light, assembly lube, vacuum gauge, harmonic balancer puller, compressor, compression tester, small magnet, shop vac. and patience!!
Here is what I had to do:
Picking out the cam hardest job but here is what I got.
Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5.480"
.487"Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6.512"
.520"Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050"208°
214°Lobe Separation Angle107Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050"0° BTC
37° BBCIntake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050"28° ABC
-3° ATCSweet Spot: Idle to 5500 RPM
I needed to change the springs and retainers.
Installed Height/Pressure: 1.660"--120#
Pressure @ .450" lift: 280#
Pressure @ .500" lift: 300#
Pressure @ .550" lift: 310#
Coil Bind: .620" lift
Outer Spring ID/OD: 1.033"/1.440"
Type of Spring:Single w/ damper
This may not be in order and I might have forgot something, but you get the idea. It's a lot to read but, nobody is making you read it if you don't want to.
Drain the coolant into a responsible type container and remove upper hose.
Disconnect the battery.
Disconnect the trany lines to radiator and capture the fluid or plug the connections.
Remove the radiator after removing lower hose from water pump.
Remove the alt, fan, PS and AC if you have it.
Remove water pump, hoses, fuel line, carb linkage, kick down cable, vacuum hoses, spark plugs, distrubutor cap.
Remove crank pully and pull the harmonic balancer.
Remove fuel pump (if it's not electric) then the timing cover.
Remove the intake manifold and carb as one unit.
Rotate the engine to TDC of cylinder #1. Note the distrubutor position.
Remove the distributor and gear to the oil pump.
Remove valve covers, rocker arms, push rods, and lifters.
If you plan on leaving the heads on while changing the springs like I did, I used the compression tester fitting and compressor to keep the valves in place while changing the srings and retainers.
Remove cam cover and oil plug. Pull cam.
Scrape all dirt or gasket material from sealing surfaces with a razor and shop vacuum to catch the stuff from getting into your motor.
I did everything in reverse when installing, keeping all the parts in labeled bags and boxes that showed which lifter, pushrods and other parts went for ease of assembly. Taking pictures before disassembly helps too.
Alone, it took me 2 days and 16 hours of labor. I might be a little bit more detailed in my work because I don't want to loose anything or screw up.
It started right up with no leaks.
Total cost of parts was about 650.00 (MOPARS are expensive!)
If anyone has any questions about this project I'll be happy to anyswer...
#8
Hey sebring28
I am working on a similar project and went with a hughes cam/ also changed Iron ram heads- I wanted ask a few questions regarding the magnum
mine came out of a 01 Ram- I am putting a 727 behind what type of flex plate or converter are u using due to the external balance of the 360?
Thanks
mine came out of a 01 Ram- I am putting a 727 behind what type of flex plate or converter are u using due to the external balance of the 360?
Thanks
I'm using a magnum engine externally ballanced harmonic balancer, stock LA block flex pate and the converter is a non-lock up with weight on it to balance it.
Good luck!!!
#9
Magnum motor Flex plate
ended up using a B&M balanced flex plate since I didnot know what type of torque converter I was going to use-
just got the motor it runs great- used all 01 dodge ram accessories( power steering-A/C alternator need to figure out the wiring now
just got the motor it runs great- used all 01 dodge ram accessories( power steering-A/C alternator need to figure out the wiring now
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