I've got voltage to both gauges so I know I need to replace the gauge. The circuit board is also good. Can I leave all plugs connected to the board, drop the circuit board and gauge, and remove the four nuts just to replace just the gauge?

Bruce

 

Figured it out. What an afternoon! Pulled the circuit board and removed the four nuts to the gauge. Didn't know I would have to remove the instrument panel and cover to get that darn gauge out! Finally got it though and the new one is in but not yet tested. Lost a nut under the dash somewhere and our only local hardware store rolled in the sidewalk at 6:00 this evening. I've decided at the same time that since everything is apart, I'd attack the clock which is not working. Anyone know what a common problem is with these things and mostly how to remove it from the back of the panel? Also, where can I buy a can of that silvery chrome looking paint?

Bruce

 

Hey Bruce!

Other than the fuel gauge... how does she run?

The clock in my new '68 Fury doesn't work and I have not attempted any repair.

I had another '68 Fury and the clock never worked until I had a wiring problem, which forced me to install an entire wiring harness, behind the dashboard, from a parts car. After everything was hooked up, I connected the battery and before I turned the key to see if it would start, I noticed the clock that had never worked, was working! So, it may not take much.

 

Well....I finished replacing the gauge and put the dash back together (but tested the gauge operation first) and again, both the fuel and temp gauge not working. Don't know where to go from here. I checked all of the connections, BUT when I pulled the connector from the firewall under the hood, I noticed that the thick BLACK wire had gotten real hot at one time and corroded the pin and melted the female end. Could that be my problem and how would I go about fixing that wire and lead?

Sorry Silverick...the car runs great and shifts smooth while driving but when I start out and shift from either park or neutral to drive it shifts hard and lurches forward a bit. Any ideas?

Bruce

 

For the transmission, the first thing that I would do is replace the filter and fill it full of fresh transmission fluid, and go from there.

For that electrical connector, that's typical '60s Mopar stuff. All of those connections are old and the plastic is brittle. I'm sure there is a fix but, I don't know where to get those parts. I'm sure that someone in this forum has a solution for you.

For the fuel gauge, maybe it's the sending unit in the tank but, I'm just guessing and I wouldn't count out that bad firewall bulkhead?

I don't think I've been much help

A wiring schematic would be a good thing to have

 

That bulkhead connector is in serious need of help. Here is an article that might help.

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

If you can find a donor car and snag the bulkhead connector just replace the whole thing. If you do a search on them you will find a lot of Q and A on multiple sites.

 

All great information. Thanks allot all! I've decided to go the hardwire route which I have already started with copious drawings, notes, and photos and as Gary suggested slowly, cautiously and one wire at a time. I've painted my backplate and am waiting for that to dry and will finish it tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get my fuel/temp gauge to work and even get a working clock out of the deal!!

Bruce

 

This has been very frustrating! All of the connections are good and the gauge tests fine. I replaced the voltage regulator and the condenser and with the key on the gas needle moves a bit, but not past E. I've replaced the temp switch and still no movement on the temp gauge. I've replaced all connections as I have found them. My question: Is the condenser attached to the correct leg on the voltage regulator? ( see pic in first post)

Bruce

 

Bruce,
It sounds to me like the fuel gauge sending unit, in the gas tank, is stuck or has a hole in it and is full of fuel. Which means that it wouldn't float like it should to give the proper reading on the dash gauge.

I found this link for you:
http://www.collectorcarsforsale.com/...404482647.html

Rick

 

Thanks Rick.
That is my last resort since I'll have to drop the tank to get to it.
Good winter job though.

Bruce

 

In those style gas gauges there is a voltage limiter. Not to be confused with a voltage regulator. The voltage limiter effects both the gas gauge and the temp guage. The voltage limiter is in the fuel gauge itself. On ebay there is a company that sells a solid state replacement voltage limiter that makes it bullet proof but it takes some brains to do it. They have an instructional video right on the ebay auction site for you to learn from. The way to test the voltage limiter is to take a continuity tester (light) and ground one end of it and then take the end that lights up and touch it to the temp sending unit with the key switch in the accessary position. Don't turn the key clock wise like you are going to start it or it may burn up the points in your distributor, if you leave it on too long. You have to leave the wire on the temp sending unit when you touch the probe end of the tester to it. If it is good, the test light will blink. If it does nothing, then you may have to check to see if you have juice to the wire that goes to the temp sending unit. If the test light stays on and does not blink, your voltage limiter in the fuel gauge is bad. If you have the boot type sending unit wire that pushes down over the sending unit post, you will have to lift it a little so you can stick the probe end of the test light in there. If it blinks with the key switch turned to the left (accessary position), the voltage limiter should be OK. As far as your bulkhead connector is concerned. They changed the configuration of it the next year in 65 and that took care of it. The two big wires are the ones that carry all the juice. I think they are in the top plug to the connector. When the metal hardware inside the plug, start to oxidize and corrode, it causes a restriction in current and will heat up. When the two big boys get hot, they take the rest of the wires in the harness with them and melt the plug and the bulkhead connector. Those two main wires go to your amp gauge. The curcuit board itself does not get its juice from the amp guage. It has it's own separate feed from a 4 gang plug that pushes over the 4 posts attached to the curcuit board. You have to get that melt down problem at the bulkhead connector fixed first. In 1965 they routed the two big wires separately from all the other wires. The bulkhead connector in 1965 is taller to make more room for separation of the two main wires from the rest of the wires. They routed them straight through the middle so that they are situated right between the upper and lower plug ins. You can use the improved 1965 or newer bulkhead connector to upgrade your 64 IF, you are willing to cut your firewall about a 1/2 inch (give or take) taller to accomodate the size of the up graded bulkhead connector. In addition, they connected the main wires INSIDE the car this time, to keep them out of the weather. You can just put snap fit ends on all your wires so you can pull them apart and push them together when ever you need to. Just forget about the bulkhead connector all together. Leave it installed but still run the wires through it. Just make sure to keep the two main wires away from all the rest. If you reconnect the two mains with fresh clean connectors and have those connections on the inside of the car, you won't have the corrosion problem which causes the "wire fire" we are all too familiar with. You can use a silcone, electrically conductive grease to protect all your connections from the moisture causing the corrosion. It needs to be a non-patroleum type grease. Over the course of time a petroleum based grease will start to break down any plastic that it touches. Petroleum products break down other petroleum products. That is why you see the asphalt breaking up in the spots where cars have been dripping oil. You can get that kind of grease at the parts store. It is used for spark plug wire boots and light bulb sockets. Your gauge problem could very well be caused by your melt down at the bulkhead connector. Get that mess streamlined and organized, then go from there. Good luck.

 

As far as your clock is concerned. Spray it down with WD 40. It needs a good rinsing. Do this while holding it in your hand, not while it is still attached to the car. The movement gets gummed up over the years and then just stops. It has a set of contact breaker points like in your distibutor. When those points touch each other, they fire a spark and separate. When they separate it rewinds the clock spring. Then the cycle starts all over again. The contact facings of the breaker points will show there age but are hardly ever the actual problem. They may need shined up a little bit. Sometimes there will be one of the many teeny tiny parts in the movement itself, that is no longer able to do its job. If you ride in an old Mopar that has a functioning clock, you'll hear the "ping" of the breaker points firing to rewind the clock. It's kinda cool to look and study one till it makes sense. It's interesting. They have a replacment quartz movement you can buy on ebay. You can reuse your original clock face so your car stays historically accurate in appearance while having a more trouble free modernized mechanism. I did it to my 64 New Yorker. The second hand no longer ticks its way around the dial. It "sweeps" in one steady constant motion.

 

Thanks Norskinder for the reply. I can't believe it's been 10 months though and I apologize for not following up. As Rick had mentioned, the problem with the gas gauge was that the brass float on the sender was cracked. I dropped the tank, replaced it, re installed the sender and the fuel gauge is now working great. I still have to tackle the problem with the temp gauge one of these days. It's working fine when tested but just won't register engine temp even after replacing the sender.

The clock had a fried coil. What also happens to these is that when the car is stored for long periods without the battery being disconnected, as the battery runs down and the points make contact there is not enough juice to complete the winding cycle so it just burns out the coil. Sent it in to be repaired by these folks http://www.clockwks.com/The_Clock_Worx.html and it's working great. So this winter I'm planning to pull all the plastic dash parts and send them in here http://www.gcartrim.com/index.htm to be "re-chromed". Thanks for all of your help again.
Bruce

 

Oh good! I'm glad you made progress. I am having the same trouble with my temp gauge in my 65 Sport Fury. I think the curcuit board is the problem. The sending unit is new, the wire to it has juice and blinks the test light like it is supposed to. This indicates the voltage limiter is good. I still get no reading and I have tried 3 other spare temp gauges I have. No change. Just a dead needle. If you get it figured out help me with mine and tell me what you learned. OK? Thanks!

 

I've tried another circuit board and the temp gauge still didn't work. I'll let you know if I find a solution. By the way, where can I find the plug in bulkhead connectors?

Bruce