73 charger dies while driving
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73 charger dies while driving
Hello everybody. I’m having a problem with my 73 Dodge charger. It starts up and runs just fine however when I go to drive it it will eventually die randomly. I believe it’s an electrical issue as I’ve rebuilt entire fuel system twice. Another thing is that when you go to start it and let off the key, then it fires. It will not fire while cranking. Strange, I know and I’ve already replaced ignition switch. Something that may be related but probably not is that when it’s driving, the headlights will flicker off and then turn back on very fast and completely random. I replaced voltage regulator, electronic ignition control unit, ballast resistor, ignition, and a bunch of other stuff it’s completely unrelated to the electrical issues that happened. Any help is appreciated.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Long Island, NY
73 --
" as I’ve rebuilt entire fuel system twice "
Sounds like a ground short or mis-connected wire..
Assume you checked the battery voltage when it dies (or now)?
Just curious, are you running the factory ammeter or a voltmeter?
Archer
" as I’ve rebuilt entire fuel system twice "
Sounds like a ground short or mis-connected wire..
Assume you checked the battery voltage when it dies (or now)?
Just curious, are you running the factory ammeter or a voltmeter?
Archer
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 292
Likes: 42
From: Kansas
Another thing is that when you go to start it and let off the key, then it fires. It will not fire while cranking.
One is for the run position and the other for the start position.
The start wire bypasses the ballast resistor so the coil gets a full 12v during cranking. It sounds like that wire is the problem. Either not being energized by the switch or a bad connection. I would double check the bulkhead connections and steering column connectors. Use a test light to figure out were your coil power is for cranking.
Also, if your using an aftermarket ignition system that does not use a ballast resistor, you need to make sure to tie the Start and Run wires together so, the system gets power under both conditions. In fact, while not 100% necessary, if using an aftermarket system I would install a relay to power it and instead of directly off the key to eliminate power loss due to aging wiring.
Hope this help. Good luck.
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Joined: Apr 2018
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Thanks for all of your input. I’ll check the bulkhead wiring and install a new coil today. I pulled apart most of the connectors and they look fine. Pretty low miles on the car so I don’t think aging wiring is a factor but you never know. The electronic ignition system is stock. I’ll crawl into the floorboard and grease all the wiring connections after I find and test the correct ignition wires. Thanks y’all. I’ll update you soon
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