Electronic ignition help needed
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Electronic ignition help needed
I have a 1989 Dodge D100 truck w/ a LA 318. It was, originally a roller cam, lean burn, throttle body w/ ECU. I am building it w/ a flat tappet hydraulic cam, 302 ported heads, Kieth Black high compression pistons, Edlebrock RPM intake & 600 cfm Carb., Long tube headers & using a Mopar Orange electronic ignition set-up. This means that the ECU will no longer be needed. Has anyone ever deleted the ECU & rewired a similar set-up? Do I need to add a Horn/ Starter relay? Someone said that I would have to use an old style alternator & voltage regulator, is that true? Is my current ammeter one of the ones that is wired in series? Can I just use an older engine harness, or is there a better solution? I am going to use a mechanical fuel pump, just plain more accessible. Any help will be much appreciated.
Last edited by D-cat; 04-30-2015 at 10:58 AM.
#2
Mopar Fanatic
On the alternator issue, I run a Ford G3 with internal regulator. Chrysler does not have a 130 amp unit which I need for fans, fuel pump electric water pump and Halogen head lights. The ECU can be deleted but look closely at what it currently interfaces with. Sometimes guages, fuel pumps and speedo's are on the list. Elimination calls for rewiring according to older vehicles as long as all the emmisions crap is stripped. Check local laws and standards before proceeding. You can purchase engine bay harnesses fairly cheap but you may be into a partial rewire at the dash or at best a few mods to the wiring. I recommend you get an earlier manual from an earlier truck with an electrical diagram enclosed. As far as charge current goes the basic minimum these days, with all the goodies people add for power and driveability, is about 80 amp which gives some room to grow electronically. There's too many choices in alternators these days to even give concern to externally regulated units.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
On the alternator issue, I run a Ford G3 with internal regulator. Chrysler does not have a 130 amp unit which I need for fans, fuel pump electric water pump and Halogen head lights. The ECU can be deleted but look closely at what it currently interfaces with. Sometimes guages, fuel pumps and speedo's are on the list. Elimination calls for rewiring according to older vehicles as long as all the emmisions crap is stripped. Check local laws and standards before proceeding. You can purchase engine bay harnesses fairly cheap but you may be into a partial rewire at the dash or at best a few mods to the wiring. I recommend you get an earlier manual from an earlier truck with an electrical diagram enclosed. As far as charge current goes the basic minimum these days, with all the goodies people add for power and driveability, is about 80 amp which gives some room to grow electronically. There's too many choices in alternators these days to even give concern to externally regulated units.
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theaspenator
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01-30-2008 06:30 PM